Finally started getting my air lines plumbed in.

[WILD-BILL]

And thought I'ld share a few pics of the progress.

First, we'll start off in the shed where the air compress lives. I had been using a single regulator to a rubber line feed through the window into the shop side of the garage. Now I have the hard line up and plumbed through the wall....

I left a T so I had a provision for running air to this side as well as that's where my blasting cabnet sits.

Through the wall seperating the shed and the shop and it T's to have 1 line to the bench and the other going along the back wall......

(Pardon the mess, I I was still working around while taking the pics )

The reg at the bench

The back wall which will be the main lines are a pair of 25' HF hose reels. I wanted one on either side of the car so I wasn't having to drag a line over the top or try and toss it under to reach the other side.

I guess we'll call this Phase 1 as I still have more pipe to run to "finish it off"

I want to extend it over to the other corner and have a drop for a small reg and blow gun for the lathe....

And it will then continue down that side wall and terminate at the large 50' reel mounted n the front corner that will reach out into the driveway or with the addition of the 2 (unreeled) 50' hoses I have will reach out to the front of the driveway for when I need to service the Motorhome

This reel also swings so I can reach down the back sides of the cars or along the inside of that wall.

I know I still have some things to do like add drainage drops and valves to what is up right now but I kinda ran out of money alloted and just got it functional untill the check book recovers some.

I did charge the lines and it seems the Home Depot iron pipe seems to not be that good a fit as I have a few leaks I need to seal up but overall I'm happy to get to this point.

I found this thread that has some pointers on that but if anyone cares to share their tricks to sealing up airline pipe joints I'll be happy to listen.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=207362&highlight=sealing+air+lines

 

[NUTTSGT]

The reg at the bench

It looks good and I'll add one suggestion. I'd put a female quick connect on the regulator and a male quick connect on the yellow hose.

It'll keep from having to drag the other hose reel over to the bench when you need to use the die grinder or something else. All you need is a regular short section of air hose. I've never found using an air tool with those coiled hoses very fun.

 

[WILD-BILL]

I was thinking of that very setup but didn't have the fittings laying around to switch it.

I do have a quick connect at the other end of the yellow hose to change tools on the bech.

The hose I had already from another kit bought long ago so I went with it. If I hate it I'm not out any coin

 

[CNGsaves]

Nice solid black-pipe steel airline system. Looks good!

Curious if you did any of your own pipe cutting / threading, or used store bought?? What's total investment thus far in airline system (pipe only)?? Is it all 1/2" or 3/4" ??

Those regulators from the IR close-out sale ?? How they working for you??

What pressure you keeping in the airline system, vs drops with regulators for tools??

 

[KUHL1]

Looks good but I have one question. I also will be piping my shop with air but I was going to use PVC instead of black pipe. Is one better than the other or is it a matter of preference?

 

[MFolks]

PVC for air lines, can be a potential "Bomb" waiting to go off. The extremely sharp shards will stick in drywall, and I'd hate to be around when it explodes. I believe there was a recent thread about this very thing happening recently.

 

[WILD-BILL]

Most of the pipes were as bought from HD save the one going between the T's for the drops to the hose reels and the one going across the ceiling to the work bench. Those were odd size spacing so I cut a pipe to lenght and threaded the cut end.

The 2 regs at the hose reels are the 1/2 Harbor Freight models and the 1/4 reg at the bench is one I "aquired" some time ago but it matches perfectly to the ones I got from HF.

All the pipe is 1/2" save the rubber hose coming off the compressor that acts as a vibration absorber. I got that in 3/4 as it better matched the ID of the pipe.

The main line pressure is the same as the tank pressure. Stated as 175 psi. I'll probably set the main reels to around 125 psi or so and the bench to 90 or less depending on what I'm doing at the time.

Since the BIG reel in the front corner will be mostly used for long runs out to work on the MH using a 3/4" impact I may set it higher then the other reels but I need to get that part of the system up before I can think about that too much.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Nice work.

 

[DekeT]

Looks good but I have one question. I also will be piping my shop with air but I was going to use PVC instead of black pipe. Is one better than the other or is it a matter of preference?

Look to the search function for a few thousand posts on this very touchy subject. Fun read.

 

[WILD-BILL]

Not sure on the total investment to this point as some of this was bought a while back.

If I dare try it add it up....

2 hose reels @ $49.99 ea (HF with coupon)
2 1/2 regs @ $23 (HF had a 20% off for one and a 25% off for the other)
3/4 Hyd hose for TSC bought some time ago
50 hose reel bought a looooooooooong time ago at a swap meet. ( don't ask cuz I don't know )
IIRC we bought about $170 in HD gift cards (for fuel perks) to get the pipe valves and fittings and used all of it and a little extra.

So, in a nut shell it's been a couple hundred bucks or a little more to get here.

Good thing I had a bunch of scrap metal that got sold off to help pay for this.

 

[Torque1st]

Nice work!

 

[akdiesel]

It all looks very nicely done.
A couple of questions though... If your highest pressure setting will be 125 for the reels why not just use one main regulator at the tank out let and then use another for the bench at 90 psi. Less cost, less maintenance, and that one up high looks like it may be difficult to get to and adjust.
I am one for overkill but I also like ease of use.

 

[CNGsaves]

That's a damned nice airline system you've got going for couple hundred bucks!! Good luck sealing those leaks. Bunch of other GJ threads have mentioned Rectorseal 5 (yellow) as excellent pipe dope, along with Rectorseal T + 2 - - - however, no consistency if you should use BOTH teflon tape and pipe dope. Some pro's swear by using BOTH teflon tape and pipe dope. In the end, it can't hurt using both.

Hope I wasn't too prying asking for costs, but wanted to demonstrate that LIFETIME quality airline system doesn't really cost an arm and leg. You're building terrific DIY home airline system that will easily serve your needs.

There's absolutely no reason that others can't replicate what you've done in your garage with black pipe steel airline system. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Al Bundy]

Make sure you use pipe dope that's rated for gas lines. There was only one kind at HD the last time I looked. The other stuff will leak if you use it.

 

[Milton Shaw]

Looks good, but I would have added a drip leg on that line down to the filter regulator at the bench. Replace the elbow with a T and add 12" ****** and drain valve. You will eventually catch water in that regulator without the drip leg. All takeoff should come from top of line and all drops should have drip legs, all systems will eventually have water get in them and drip legs help keep it out of tools, paint etc.

 

[WILD-BILL]

Looks good, but I would have added a drip leg on that line down to the filter regulator at the bench. Replace the elbow with a T and add 12" ****** and drain valve. You will eventually catch water in that regulator without the drip leg. All takeoff should come from top of line and all drops should have drip legs, all systems will eventually have water get in them and drip legs help keep it out of tools, paint etc.

Yeah, I thought the same thing after I put in in and looked at it. Said to myself "I should have a water trap there too."

 

[WILD-BILL]

It all looks very nicely done.
A couple of questions though... If your highest pressure setting will be 125 for the reels why not just use one main regulator at the tank out let and then use another for the bench at 90 psi. Less cost, less maintenance, and that one up high looks like it may be difficult to get to and adjust.
I am one for overkill but I also like ease of use.

As I stated, the big reel in the other corner will be at a higher pressure then these 2 and so it's really only one extra regulator. I feel better about haveing them at the lines where they are easier to acsess. The compressor is in the back corner of the shed and when it gets piled ful of kids **** and stuff can be a bear to get to.

The reg above th drill press is actually easy to reach. The ceilings in my garage are rather low at right around 7' While it's easier to adjust if I stand on a chair I can do it without and I can shut the air valve off and take the "cup" off the bottom without having to stand on a chair or step ladder either.

 

[WILD-BILL]

That's a damned nice airline system you've got going for couple hundred bucks!! Good luck sealing those leaks. Bunch of other GJ threads have mentioned Rectorseal 5 (yellow) as excellent pipe dope, along with Rectorseal T + 2 - - - however, no consistency if you should use BOTH teflon tape and pipe dope. Some pro's swear by using BOTH teflon tape and pipe dope. In the end, it can't hurt using both.

Hope I wasn't too prying asking for costs, but wanted to demonstrate that LIFETIME quality airline system doesn't really cost an arm and leg. You're building terrific DIY home airline system that will easily serve your needs.

There's absolutely no reason that others can't replicate what you've done in your garage with black pipe steel airline system. Thanks for sharing.

No, you weren't prying.

And thanks for the kind words. Like many other areas of my shop I have given many years of thought on how I wanted it all in the end. It's kinda nice to see it finally coming together and hear others like what I have planned out.

Especially since so many hear have shops I can only dream of.

 

[WILD-BILL]

Well, as it turns out, I had some pipe dope on the shelves in the garage. Wish I would have Known before hand.

Anyways, While I don't remember the brand it did state on the lable it designed for water, steam, NG and air systems so I gave it a shot at sealing up all the leaks.

My 24 hr waiting period should be up around 5 PM tonight and I was wondering if there was anyting to be gained be letting it sit longer then that before I pressurize it again and recheck for leaks?

 

[ptschram]

Why wait 24 hours?

I pressurize as soon as I'm done and I rarely have leaks-but, I was taught how to assemble pipes 30+ years ago by a gentleman who knew how.

 

[WILD-BILL]

Seemed to be the popular method from what I read on here. I had other things to do last night and had to work today so there was no reall reason not to wait.

I acctually wont need to use the air for some time but I wouldn't having the system done and leak free so I can paint it. I can easily wait much longer before I have to do anything out there if there may be added advantage.

Doesn't sound like it though.

 

[sberry]

I might have done this with 2 reels and a 1 reg but some good shopping didn't make a little extra equipment a deal breaker for Bill.
The reel in the back corner to serve outside is nice but I would probably plug off those pesky coils, plumb plasma to it and use the reels, wouldn't add a circuit and more connectors to blow the occasional chip when there is a hose 5 ft away.

 

[sberry]

I remember the first air systems I built, I copied from places I worked and they were not always right or what was good there wasn't what I needed at home. I tried a lot of stuff, lots seemed like a good idea at the time but most got stripped away. Nice thing about a simple steel job here of one size with screwed pipe is,,,, you can change it,,, I know it panics some people to have to unscrew a joint or 2 but its why they invented it the way they did.

 

[WILD-BILL]

Well, it seems we have a winner. I did have to take apart the parts that go into the regs and redo them a third time but I did finally get them bubble free. Used a generous wrap of teflon tape as well as the dope and really cranked them in there on the last go around. Thought I might put a crack in the reg

As far as the coiled yellow hose goes, I no longer have it permantly connected to the reg by the work benh. I put a female quick connect on the reg and a male on the hose so I could get it out of the way when not needed.

This also allows me to take your advise and not worry about a drop at the lathe. Maybe I was kinda getting carried away with it

It does make more sense to put pull the hose from above the drill press over and if I really don't want to bother with the bulk of that hose I can plug in the coil and use that

Yes, I probaly could have gotten away with a siimpler system, But I've lived and worked in this garage for roughly ten years. Having all that time to think things over I can honestly say I think this is what works best for me.

All in all, I'm happy with it.

 

[sberry]

Yes, 10 yrs is probably long enough. Somehow due to the nature of it I assumed it was a newer job. It looks great.

 

[WILD-BILL]

Thanks.

It kinda is a "newer Job" as I had been working in here for many years with an "unfinished" garage. Dreaming all the while about the way I wanted things.

It's just now that I'm finally getting around to doing it. Heck, the insulation, drywall, and heat was only done in the fall of 2011.

 

[ptschram]

I've been working in the same shop for seven years and still don't have the air plumbed in much less the furnace in place.

Someday!

 

[NUTTSGT]

As far as the coiled yellow hose goes, I no longer have it permantly connected to the reg by the work benh. I put a female quick connect on the reg and a male on the hose so I could get it out of the way when not needed.


It does make more sense to put pull the hose from above the drill press over and if I really don't want to bother with the bulk of that hose I can plug in the coil and use that

Having the yellow coiled hose with quick connects on each end is great for a simple blast of air. I have one on each side of the garage with blow nozzles on them. One of them lives behind the drill press which is really handy.

 

[WILD-BILL]

That was one of the reasons for having a drop over the top my drill press too

 

[Charles (in GA)]

The pipe ****** between the compressor tank and the water separator, will eventually crack in the threads at the compressor end. The vibration coupled with the weight of the water separator hanging out there, will eventually cause it to crack. I had this happen with a similar installation.

Edit: upon closer inspection I see that the device at the compressor is not a water separator, but rather an oiler/lubricator, as evidenced by the sight glass on top of it. I also see that you are supplying 175 psi right into the ****** supplying the elbow and the oiler. If the ****** is a welded seam type of pipe (typical of galvanized or black pipe, you can see the seam inside the pipe) then the pipe is only rated for 150 psi. Pretty good chance the fittings are also only 150 psi fittings. I've had to go to Grainger and have them order in fittings and ******* rated for 200 or 300 psi to make connections at the compressor. I also suspect that the oiler is not rated for 175, but it might be due to the metal bowl protector.

Charles

Charles

 

[WILD-BILL]

I thought it was a water seperater. I have (in the past) drained water out of it.

I didn't think oilers had drains on the bottom like seperaters do.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

I thought it was a water seperater. I have (in the past) drained water out of it.

I didn't think oilers had drains on the bottom like seperaters do.

We have oilers on much of the equipment at work, large aircraft jacks, etc, and many do have a drain on the bottom of the bowl. Does the inside have swirl device and filter screen or element?

The Wilkerson catalogs all note "optional drain on polycarbonate bowl" for the lubricators. The clear dome on top is to see the oil misting onto it as it leaves the oiler.

The attachment shows a air filter, (pic borrowed from Ebay). The air enters thru the swirl vanes and the water condenses on the glass bowl and runs down the sides, past the black plastic concave disc, into the bottom where it can be drained. The air turns and passes thru the filter element, the brown or orange looking piece, and continues on. Oilers will have none of this.

Charles

 

[WILD-BILL]

We have oilers on much of the equipment at work, large aircraft jacks, etc, and many do have a drain on the bottom of the bowl. Does the inside have swirl device and filter screen or element?

The Wilkerson catalogs all note "optional drain on polycarbonate bowl" for the lubricators. The clear dome on top is to see the oil misting onto it as it leaves the oiler.

The attachment shows a air filter, (pic borrowed from Ebay). The air enters thru the swirl vanes and the water condenses on the glass bowl and runs down the sides, past the black plastic concave disc, into the bottom where it can be drained. The air turns and passes thru the filter element, the brown or orange looking piece, and continues on. Oilers will have none of this.

Charles

I guess I should take a look at it close next time I'm out there. Thanks fo the tip.

I found it in a box of "junk" at work and just assumed it was a seperator. If it's not I can eliminate that part of the system.

 

[coljar]

Looks nice. I've been working with a hose off my tank in my newest garage because the compressor is close to where my HVAC will be and I don't want to move any lines that might get in the way of it's installation. I had plans of using 3/4" stainless rigid tubing, but the fittings were going to be cost prohibited.

 

[greatlaker]

Looks great! Another benefit to black iron over pvc is if you have a fire the black pipe doesn't melt and then fuel the fire some more.
I did my shop in 3/4 black iron also. I've fit a fair amount of pipe over the years so it's nothing new to me. to my surprise when I put air to it I had quite a few leaks. (not major ones but pitas none the less) What I did was connect my hvac vacuum pump up, pull a vacuum on the system and then apply Loctite 290 (the green wicking stuff). All joints are nice and tight now.
A friend told me he's been hearing more about this due to the Chinese black iron fittings not being perfectly round (fwiw).
Nice to do it right, though

 

[marinusdees]

Don't use a blowgun to clean your lathe. You'll drive swarf everywhere it shouldn't be and where you can't see it.