Mighty Mouse
Well-known member
what a cool garage!
Finally started my garage project.
- Thread starter BHR4CE1
- Start date
nperkins
Well-known member
Yeah they do...
This is a guy I know who has 22's on his M6... I'm not a fan, but they still look good..
bobemmerich
Well-known member
I was thinking 2 of the same for "His" and "Hers". That garage is awesome!
Your TV is too small...
You probably need more wiring...
There isn't going to be enough light in there...
.... but seriously, I can't wait till I can do a frame off restoration of a garage!
What kind of array is that with the blue tabs on it? I used to put in those servers but they never had a brand name on them.
You probably need more wiring...
There isn't going to be enough light in there...
.... but seriously, I can't wait till I can do a frame off restoration of a garage!
What kind of array is that with the blue tabs on it? I used to put in those servers but they never had a brand name on them.
dave67fd
Well-known member
I commend you on your attention to detail or should i more likely say the ability to "hire" the best. Nonetheless, please tell us your going to at least box in or even better yet, re-route the exhaust vent for the water heater (i believe it is)?
I wish I could!!!
I was told that it could not be altered due to California Code. I actually did alter it a little bit (hopefully they won't notice on inspection day) because it was just plain NASTY! It is my biggest complaint of the whole project. They won't even let me paint the metal part out to match so it would "go away" a little bit, but I plan on having it painted as soon as the inspection is done. I did have the painter paint the Asbestos portion of it already. It really pisses me off sometimes because it seems to draw my eyes to it whenever I walk into the garage.
What this means is that you can't alter it until AFTER the inspection.
I don't see why you can't just go straight up through the roof.
I would just treat it like any stove pipe and insulate it accordingly and then hide it out of sight after you pass the inspection.
What this means is that you can't alter it until AFTER the inspection.
I don't see why you can't just go straight up through the roof.
I would just treat it like any stove pipe and insulate it accordingly and then hide it out of sight after you pass the inspection.
Something to do with it being made of Asbestos, and the fact that directly above the HWH is a bedroom, so it has to angle out into the garage first then go straight up...through the attic and vent out of the roof.. When we asked about relocating or covering it, they sent us this:
Every water heater designed to be vented shall be connected to a venting system. The venting system shall consist of approved chimneys, Type B vents, Type L vents, or a venting assembly which is an
integral part of or specified by the manufacturer to be used with a listed appliance. Other requirements are: • Must vent thru the roof. • Single wall vent requires minimum 6" clearance to
combustible materials. • Double wall type “B” vent requires minimum 1"
clearance to combustible materials. • The B vent must extend 12" above the roof. • Gravity vents shall extend in a vertical direction
with offsets not exceeding 45 degrees. • Every vent connector, which is part of a gravity-
type venting system, shall have a continuous rise of not less than 1/4 inch per foot of length.
What clearance is required for the vents?
• Single wall metal vents shall not be less than 6 inches from combustible material.
• The termination of the vent must extend above the roof structure.
• Gravity type vent can not terminate less than 5 feet above the vent collar.
• Type B vents are a double wall vent for the use with gas-fired appliances. With vent caps over 12 inches in size they shall terminate not less than 2 feet above the highest point where they pass through the roof and at least 2 feet higher than any portion of a building within 10 feet.
• Termination is also not allowed less than 4 feet from, nor less than 1 foot above any door, window or gravity air inlet into any building, nor not less than 3 feet above or less than 10 feet from any forced air inlet and can not be less than 4 feet from any property line.
Can I use my existing venting system when I replace my water heater?
Yes, as long as the venting system complies with the following: 1. The venting system was lawfully installed in
compliance with the Code in effect at the time of
its installation and shall be in a safe condition. 2. The internal area is not less than the vent collar of the water heater and not less than 7 square inches.
3. The venting system shall be connected to the water heater in a safe manner.
I am sure there are hundreds of ways to modify the pipe to make you happy and still comply with these requirements. And why not just get a double walled insulated pipe?
Insert common sense and check with the forum guys, and you will probably be good to go.
Insert common sense and check with the forum guys, and you will probably be good to go.
gbcamp72
Well-known member
I wonder if you might be able to post a few wider shots of your garage. I’m trying to imagine the overall picture and how all the great detail shots flow together. The features you have incorporated like remote compressor, fire suppression and the electronics make your build truly on of a kind. Thanks for posting all the features and detail on how you pulled them off. It’s been super to go to school with you as it came together.
Best regards,
Best regards,
deutschman
Member
BHR4CE1: Please open the garage door.
GARAGE:
If you are not careful the garage will become smarter then you! lol
Beautiful work!
GARAGE:
If you are not careful the garage will become smarter then you! lol
Beautiful work!
Here's a few shots showing the open side.The washer/dryer will be going there, but there will still be PLENTY of air moving around in there...plus since the new dryer doesn't use a traditional vent, we have commandeered the existing dryer vent to be yet another source for outside air.
That looks great! I want to see it in action.
R Walter
Active member
I haven't read all this thread, but.... I assume you have at least a 10Kwt diesel generator and solar power. If not, what do you do when the electric goes off? Is it... oops... back to the drawing board?
I don't know why, but it reminded me of this:
Maybe it's just the fish-eye lens.
Very nice place.
thatcoder
Well-known member
i like what u've done with your home and garage.. very futuristic.
question? did a lot of that go in at build time, or did u gut out rooms and change thing around? particularly asking about your bathrooms.. i've seen a lot of those fixtures and admired from afar. always wondered how functional they are.
that kohler hat box toilet bowl was something i considered in a recent MBR remodel.
question? did a lot of that go in at build time, or did u gut out rooms and change thing around? particularly asking about your bathrooms.. i've seen a lot of those fixtures and admired from afar. always wondered how functional they are.
that kohler hat box toilet bowl was something i considered in a recent MBR remodel.
Hemin8r
Member
Amazing garage and beautiful home you have. Great job!!
Pretty much all of it was done after the build. This home was built in 1979. When i bought it, it had the typical green **** carpeting, and let us not forget the yellow daffodil and foil wallpaper in the bathrooms. EPIC! ;-)
Out of the 6 bathrooms, 3 have Toto toilets and the other three have Hatbox toilets. They are wonderful and VERY comfy, but as usual, Kohler rips you off when you order any color other than white. The gray one was about $1,300 MORE than the white one because it was gray, and don't even ask me about the black one. That is totally ridiculous if you ask me. Why should one color cost so much more than white. Don't they just add some sort of dye to it? I guess it's my fault for paying it.