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Finally Starting My Garage Build

1/4atatime

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 9, 2024
Messages
164
Location
VA
I've been a long time lurker of this form and as I gotten a large bonus from my work I think its time to finally build my garage. My needs mainly consist of a place to store two cars and a two post lift to work on my sports car. After looking at every possible option and consulting friends who have recently put up shops I have decided on a 26x30x12ft steel tube building. I know that its not the most glamorous option but based on my budget that's what is going to give me the best bang for the buck. I talked with a friend who just built up the road from me and even after he did all the work himself (the only thing he hired out was pouring the actual concrete) his stick built garage took him over a year and was more per sqft (2-2.5x more to have someone do it) and since I don't have the skills nor the desire to spend over year building it out I have opted for the metal building. Having said all that I have created a multi page list of notes for my garage. I'd love sanity check before I start throwing down the cash.

Starting bottom up:


Concrete:
5in thick 3500psi reinforced with mesh and then rebar spaced 1" and 3" from the edge. (This means the metal frame will be screwed in between the two pieces of rebar at the edge)
Moister barrier and 18" footers (per code)
Slab will be exact size of building to allow the metal to drape over
The side with the door will have a two foot apron sloped to allow cars to enter smoothly but there will be a 2x6 notch placed next to the building on the door side(I am also considering a notch directly inside the building where the doors sit to allow the doors to sit down inside the concrete or I will just tell the concrete guy not to start the slope until past the building door edge so that the doors sit flat but I am open to suggestions) to accommodate the siding again to keep water out.

Building:
The building itself will be 30ft wide 26 ft deep and 12ft tall. With the 10x10 doors on the 30ft side. Vertical siding and and 4ft on center 12 gauge framing. I will also ensure they put a rat guard at the bottom to help keep water out with the vertical panels. The one thing I am not sure about is the double bubble. I have read many thoughts on this stuff and I see a pro and a con the pro being it's a good vapor barrier for a metal style building especially at the roof during frost the con being it can break down over time. My thinking is to have the company do the roof only in double bubble to keep condensation out and then later I will use different insulation on the walls. I am open to suggestions on that.

I think that's pretty much the plan right now. Like I mentioned the things I am not sure on are the concrete notched at the apron transition and the insulation for the building. Open to any suggestions you all might have. Thanks
 
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ConCretin

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2011
Messages
3,381
Location
Central Maine
Congrats on the bonus and the new shop. Sounds like a good plan. It's going to be a little tricky positioning your rebar well enough to maintain cover and miss the building anchors. Technically you usually want an inch a half cover over rebar exposed to weather. It'll probably be fine but I wonder if it's potentially more trouble than it's worth. That 3500 psi concrete will provide plenty of pull-out resistance without any rebar. I'd be tempted to drop the two bars into the bottom of the haunch and keep the area where my anchors will land clear.
 
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1/4atatime

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 9, 2024
Messages
164
Location
VA
Congrats on the bonus and the new shop. Sounds like a good plan. It's going to be a little tricky positioning your rebar well enough to maintain cover and miss the building anchors. Technically you usually want an inch a half cover over rebar exposed to weather. It'll probably be fine but I wonder if it's potentially more trouble than it's worth. That 3500 psi concrete will provide plenty of pull-out resistance without any rebar. I'd be tempted to drop the two bars into the bottom of the haunch and keep the area where my anchors will land clear.
I was thinking the 3500 would be fine as well without the rebar directly at the edge. The only reason I was considering the rebar at 1 and 3 was I saw it recommended from one of the metal building companies however they are probably doing a sanity check for their own good and incase someone cheaps out on the concrete they don't want the sides to blow out.
 
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1

1/4atatime

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 9, 2024
Messages
164
Location
VA
This is what I think I have decided on for the structure design: 26x30x12ft with 10x9 doors (Debating if I should go up to 10x10 its the same cost but I think it looks disproportionately sized on a building this size)1718322998870.png


1718323032337.png
Structure Details
Style: Garage
Base: 26‘x31'
Installation Surface: Concrete
Roof: Black
Trim: White
Gable End Wall: Pewter Gray
Side Wall: Pewter Gray
Garage Door: White
Window Grid: White
Roof Style: Platinum Style
Roof Pitch: 4 / 12
4/12 Roof Pitch
Roof Overhang: 6"
Trusses: Triple Wide
Gauge: 12-Gauge Certification 155mph/40psf
Brace: Standard Brace
Engineer Certified: 155mph/35psf 6'-12' TALL
Leg Height: 12'
Colored Screws
Siding: Vertical
Roll Doors
10'x9' Garage Door
Header Seal
10'x9' Garage Door
Header Seal
Doors
9-Lite (Outswing 36x80)
Windows & Accessories
24W x 36H Windows
24W x 36H Windows
24W x 36H Windows
Additional Options
Double Bubble (R9) Insulation: Roof
26 Gauge Steel Upgrade
Header Seal
Ridge Cap Foam
 
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