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Finally wiring my garage!

Bill Z

Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2011
Messages
9
Location
Candlewood Lake, CT
Greetings,
I'm finally going to wire our 24 X 36 detached garage/shop, which has had "temporary" wiring consisting of a #12 wire run in one of the conduits, to power a quad outlet, some overhead bulbs, and garage door openers, for years, while I finished the house which was for weekend/vacation use, but is now our full time residence.
When I wired an addition to the house, a number of years ago, I ran SER#2-2-2-4 aluminum, 40' from the 200 amp main panel to a 100 amp sub-panel, fed by a 90 amp breaker. My plan for the garage is to use the same type panel (GE 100 amp main panel converted for use as a sub-panel) also fed from the main house panel with a 90 amp breaker. I already have everything except the feed wire and I'd like to use copper this time, as the price seems to have dropped since I did the house.
I installed 2" PVC conduit from the house to the garage at the proper depth (inspected) years ago and the total run, panel to panel is 50'. I was planning to order #4 AWG XHHW for the load and neutral feeds and #6 AWG XHHW for the ground wire, but looking at the specifications they don't seem large enough for a 90 amp breaker. Should I go with a #3 AWG XHHW for the load and neutral feeds and stay with the #6 AWG for the ground?
I know 90 amps is more than I need, even with my compressor, welders, drill press, sandblasting cabinet, gas heater and lighting combined. Any opinions or comments are appreciated. Thanks.
 
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wyliesdiesels

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 14, 2012
Messages
19,994
Location
Modesto, CA
#4 cu is fine.

And u only need a #8 for the EGC/ground.

Dont forget ground bar kit, isolate the neutral bar and 2 ground rods.
 
OP
B

Bill Z

Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2011
Messages
9
Location
Candlewood Lake, CT
Yes, I removed the tie bar connecting the neutral and ground bars and bonded the ground bar to the sub panel case, neutral is isolated. Grounding rods will be installed and everything will be inspected.

Thank you Pattenp and Wyliesdiesels for your advice.
 

wyliesdiesels

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 14, 2012
Messages
19,994
Location
Modesto, CA
Yes, I removed the tie bar connecting the neutral and ground bars and bonded the ground bar to the sub panel case, neutral is isolated. Grounding rods will be installed and everything will be inspected.

Thank you Pattenp and Wyliesdiesels for your advice.

That sounds like it is a dual neutral bar setup.

Suppose to add a ground bar kit and remove the bonding strap or green screw instead of converting one neutral bar to ground bar.
 
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UltimatE

Active member
Joined
Jan 7, 2011
Messages
31
That sounds like it is a dual neutral bar setup.

Suppose to add a ground bar kit and remove the bonding strap or green screw instead of converting one neutral bar to ground bar.

Agreed. Need to add a ground bar and remove only the bonding screw.

My ground setup is a bit overkill, but makes it easier and cleaner to wire with one on each side.
 

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pattenp

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Joined
Jun 4, 2008
Messages
10,175
Location
Virginia - USA
Yes, I removed the tie bar connecting the neutral and ground bars and bonded the ground bar to the sub panel case, neutral is isolated. Grounding rods will be installed and everything will be inspected.

Thank you Pattenp and Wyliesdiesels for your advice.

It also sounds to me that that you removed the strap between the two neutral bars. Both of those bars should be on insulated risers. As wylie said you should have added a ground bar. It is not intended by the manufacturer for the neutral bars connecting strap to be removed.
 

wyliesdiesels

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Joined
Aug 14, 2012
Messages
19,994
Location
Modesto, CA
Agreed. Need to add a ground bar and remove only the bonding screw.

My ground setup is a bit overkill, but makes it easier and cleaner to wire with one on each side.

Not overkill at all. Makes it easy for a nice clean cut panel to have neutral and ground bars on both sides.

It also sounds to me that that you removed the strap between the two neutral bars. Both of those bars should be on insulated risers. As wylie said you should have added a ground bar. It is not intended by the manufacturer for the neutral bars connecting strap to be removed.

:+1: forgot to add this part.

And Doing so violates the U/L listing as well.
 
Last edited:

anuccite

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 4, 2016
Messages
129
Location
Richlands, NC
Agreed. Need to add a ground bar and remove only the bonding screw.

My ground setup is a bit overkill, but makes it easier and cleaner to wire with one on each side.

In this scenario would you need to connect the two Grounding bars together?
 
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