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Finding compressor air line leak

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Wood'nMetal

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That doesn't sound like a slow leak! Soapy water is a good solution or a listen to each joint with a piece of hose stuck up to your ear.
 

larry_g

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Standard trouble shooting procedures tell us to divide the circuit in 1/2. So do you have any any shutoff valves in the system you can close isolating part of the system? Any easy way to cap off part of the system, or at least isolate the compressor from the piping system?

What is in your system, number of QD's, number of joints, what material, in the wall or exposed? these all would factor into the troubleshooting procedure.

lg
no neat sig line
 

CNGsaves

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That doesn't sound like a slow leak! Soapy water is a good solution or a listen to each joint with a piece of hose stuck up to your ear.

^ ^ This. Plus IF . . . the OP . . . wants to get new tool, how about one of those cool stethoscope type listening tools ??

OP, also if you have a bunch of hose/whips that are "permanent" connection, you could also set up a dunk tank of water and look for bubbles.
 

justme-

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soapy water is probably the second fastest to getting your ear close - skip the fancy tools. I find leaks in compressors brought in for service with Dawn and h20 regularly.
 

IFMJohn

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Everyone uses soapy water, an old time mechanic taught me a few years ago to pick up the gallon of bubble liquid at the dollar store or walmart or where ever. It works great!
 

DenisG

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I found that the pressure relief valve is a very common source of leaks. Another place could also be the diaphram in the pressure cut-off switch. It can be aged and cracked and because of it's size and nearby electrical connections, it's not easy to check with soapy water. You really have to take them apart to examine them. (Alternatively, you could install a temporary isolation valve to the pressure cut-off switch, but it would be dangerous to leave a valve like that in place.)
 
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BDT/NWMN

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I found that the pressure relief valve is a very common source of leaks. Another place could also be the diaphram in the pressure cut-off switch. It can be aged and cracked and because of it's size and nearby electrical connections, it's not easy to check with soapy water. You really have to take them apart to examine them. (Alternatively, you could install a temporary isolation valve to the pressure cut-off switch, but it would be dangerous to leave a valve like that in place.)




Agree with the pressure switch diaphragm leaking.... Putting an ear or stethoscope under that switch housing may find that very elusive air leak...
I have a new pressure switch sitting in the shop for my small air compressor that I bought from Coast To Coast back in 1969,,, No complaints on that one.. picked up a new switch on eBay for under $20 shipped..
 

st.rod

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Do you have a hose reel? If you do its leaking at the swivel. Always leak. Remove any air chucks that may be on the hoses when not in use also.

Larry
 
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BDT/NWMN

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Do you have a hose reel? If you do its leaking at the swivel. Always leak. Remove any air chucks that may be on the hoses when not in use also.

Larry


Ya, those leaky hose reel swivels...
An inline quarter turn shutoff valve right before the reel would save allot of frustration and lost air..
 

Falcon67

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Every drop and a reel should have a shutoff upstream. All mine stay closed unless I'm using that outlet.
 

coljar

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I don't have the best hearing, but I think I would hear something leaking off that quick. I use SNOOP for gas and air fittings.
 

TheBadDog

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Phoenix
When I setup my system, I put a 1" ball valve right at the tank for just such situations. I can tell if the tank or the distribution system is responsible for the leak. I can close off that tank when I'm not using it for a while and it stays ready to go. And if it doesn't leak down shut off, I know the tank and it's various leak sources aren't an issue. As long as it doesn't go down TOO fast when the distribution system is pressurized, it's no worry. My hose reels and flex line drops/fittings have small leaks in various (obvious and near unavoidable) places, but not anywhere near the leaks my tools are inducing (by running), and that's the only time the system is turned on.
 
OP
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BlackjackNA

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Newfoundland, CANADA
Well, finally got at it..... too many leaks! (The soapy water did the trick finding them).

I have multiple leaks at the elbows, joints in my larger pipe. Is there a potion I can use on these areas, without taking the whole system apart? (I didn't know about those "connectors" you can use which permits one to fix a joint easily in the system, without taking the whole system apart on one side of the leak all the way to the system end point). I'm thinking Threadlocker, Joint Compound, Gasket Maker, Muffler Cement. :)

Thanks, Guys - your solutions are greatly appreciated!
 

2x_Tom

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Long Island, New York
If it's threaded steel pipe your options are:

1. Back it all out from one end and re-assemble. Typically I just use Pro-dope, Real Tuff, Megaloc or something like that on screw pipe and very rarely get a leak. No need to go overboard with multiple sealants.
2. Cut the pipe at the leaking joint. Back out both pieces of the section you cut. Use union and a ****** or preferable a left right coupling and ****** in one end. Cut and re-thread your old piece to the appropriate length and re-install.


I've been doing plumbing going on ten years now and those are the only ways I know to fix a leak in threaded pipe. If you somehow managed to get epoxy or something to seal it it's not going to last long.
 

NUTTSGT

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Everyone uses soapy water, an old time mechanic taught me a few years ago to pick up the gallon of bubble liquid at the dollar store or walmart or where ever. It works great!

Never really thought about that. I know the granddaughter has a bottle or two around the house. I wonder if she would notice if it came up missing. ;)
 
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