Finish for butcher block workbench top?

[ScottsGT]

Just bought a new BB bench top. Currently edging it out with red oak, then I’ll radius the edges and bolt it down. Any heavy/nasty oily or greasy work I’ll use a piece of cardboard or Masonite to protect the surface somewhat. But what’s the best product to use for a finish? I’m thinking of BLO since it workers so well on my woodworking bench. Thoughts?

 

[PoorOwner]

following along, I got a maple top I didn't seal it with anything but I kind of regret it because it gets dirty quick.

Seems like BLO is quick and easy.

I got something called "Teak Oil" or "Danish oil" but they are actually varnish more than an oil.

 

[sld961]

I used Waterlox on my butcherblock countertops in the kitchen at my last house. It looks great and seals out water really well.

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[paulsomlo]

I 2nd Waterlox. The only reservation I would have, is that there are some solvents that react with it, such as isopropyl alcohol.

 

[Strouty]

3rd for waterlox, used it on a maple top. It does yellow things a bit, but it looks decent and keeps water from damaging things.

 

[Skiff Builder]

I like equal parts BLO/ Varnish/Mineral spirits. Sand down to 150/180. Flood it on and wipe after 30 minutes. Next day one more time. Wait a couple days. You could paste wax it for easy release of glues/adhesives if wanted.
The varnish will give you some solvent protection. Stand up ok to impacts, Easy touch up too.

Quick and dirty just use Tung Oil (most are a wiping varnish)

 

[EdT]

I have had maple countertops in my kitchen for over 30 years. I have had very good luck with a conversion varnish from Sherwin Williams. It's called Sherwood and is a 2 part that must be sprayed. Dries FAST and hard enough to sand is an hour or so. It's pricey, but it works well. I did it last time about 15 years ago and it's about due for another round. As you might expect, the areas around the sink and the cooktop take a lot of abuse, but nothing is peeling or coming loose. I love maple tops, but I only have a couple of small ones in my shop. I just can't bring myself to beat on them so a lot of utility is gone to avoid banging them up. If you're going to do any serious work and cover them up with masonite, the "niceness" of the top is kinda lost and you might as well us a solid core door or something more practical. For my next top I think I'm gonna use a piece of wide LVL. Planed down and covered with Masonite or something expendable and easily replaced.

 

[jake00]

I used wood floor finish, the nasty stuff, it’s held up for 15 years

 

[f121]

I use Rustins Plastic Coating, it's a 2-pack epoxy coating that you foam roller on, incredibly tough and heat resistant when dry.

 

[PoorOwner]

is the top going to warp to do BLO on only the top and not the bottom?

 

[Lucky13driver]

4th on waterlox, worked good for me.

 

[77thor]

It was recommended to us to use Mineral Oil on butcher block in the kitchen...
and it works well.
But you don't need to worry about toxins getting in during food prep.

 

[tonyciambrone]

I used Watco butcher block oil and finish, available at Lowe's and Menards. maybe home depot too

 

[johninct]

On mine, I used used motor oil.

 

[MFolks]

Was reading Grizzly use a Durakyrl finish on their butcher block table tops.

 

[Colin Len]

I like equal parts BLO/ Varnish/Mineral spirits. Sand down to 150/180. Flood it on and wipe after 30 minutes. Next day one more time. Wait a couple days. You could paste wax it for easy release of glues/adhesives if wanted.
The varnish will give you some solvent protection. Stand up ok to impacts, Easy touch up too.

Quick and dirty just use Tung Oil (most are a wiping varnish)

I second this approach. Very happy with how mine turned out.

 

[ScottsGT]

So what are the differences of Tung vs. BLO? Any advantage of one over the other? Ever since I finished my M1 Garand stock with BLO/mineral of spirits mix, I have been sold on BLO.
I've already applied two coats of BLO to the surface. If Tung is better, should I apply it on top after if cures?

 

[Angelfire]

So what are the differences of Tung vs. BLO? Any advantage of one over the other? Ever since I finished my M1 Garand stock with BLO/mineral of spirits mix, I have been sold on BLO.
I've already applied two coats of BLO to the surface. If Tung is better, should I apply it on top after if cures?

Tung oil is more expensive and in its pure form and will take longer to cure vs. BLO (with all it's added driers). Keep in mind that Tung/BLO are really not a building finish. They penetrate the wood and then cure with very little build on top. Varnish is where you start getting build and they are made with Tung or BLO (usually). BLO yellows over time, Tung does not.

I love Waterlox for a lot of things but wouldn't use it on a kitchen butcher block. Mineral oil/beeswax for kitchen/food applications. I could see it on a workbench but I'm in the mind of just using Tung oil as doing repairs/freshening up is painless (BLO would also work...just don't like the way it yellows over time).
Cheers.

 

[PoorOwner]

After considering my options I am doing a couple coats of deft lacquer.
It's not the most durable finish but it is a good sealer.
It does not add any yellow to the wood. I have looked at the maple block I have done with waterlox about 10 years ago, it is a brown honey color. That is just with a light 2 coat application.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I used Tung oil on the old post in the utility room in the house. It will take a while to dry and you may need some fresh air.


If you use BLO, be extremely careful with the rags you use. It's not uncommon for them to go ****.

 

[ScottsGT]

Yea, I saw the security cam video here where the guys trash can went up after it was lights out.

As soon as I'm done, rag goes into a bucket of water placed outside now.

 

[Angelfire]

I used Tung oil on the old post in the utility room in the house. It will take a while to dry and you may need some fresh air.


If you use BLO, be extremely careful with the rags you use. It's not uncommon for them to go ****.

Tung oil rags can do the same so beware folks!

 

[PoorOwner]

Just finished the lacquer on mine. Cheap and dries quick, I put on the 3rd coat this morning it is already tack free this afternoon

I just scrubbed with a little synthetic steel wool and it is ready to use.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Deft-1-...-Wood-Finish-Brushing-Lacquer-01704/100185839

I think it is as repellent as an oil soak-in finish but without the oil/wax/yellow.

If you want more durability I like polyurethane that is for floors, but apply more than a couple coats, in the end it becomes like working on a plastic sheet.