Finish for solvent tank?

[TheBadDog]

I have an older Graymills 300 solvent tank that I started refitting some time ago and got put on hold. I was planning on putting it into service just as it is, which should be fine given that I live in Phoenix AZ. However, while sitting on my project todo list (under my shop awning), the finish has substantially degraded. I'm sure it's mostly because it was cleaned. Anyway, I would like to stop the progress, and was thinking of doing it like the current trends in some automotive circles, clear coating it to freeze the "patina" in time. So that started thinking along the lines of using an automotive clear coat, and led to wondering about epoxy machine tool coatings, and thus began my most recent fun adventures in analysis paralysis.

And that leads me to my question. Up until 91 I was very involved in painting vehicles, so I have the equipment and (if rusty) skills to spray acrylic urethane automotive clears. But now there are the huge ranges including marine epoxy clears. And I'm not completely hung up on clear, so not caring about "finish" perfection, I could quickly sand and paint with a marine white epoxy. But I'm just not sure of the best finish technology (and value for $$$, sources, ???) for long term survival withstanding solvent tank use. And for reference, it will be loaded with mineral spirits intended for that purpose from a local industrial supply.

I have pending projects that will need it, so loading it with solvent in the coming weeks, so I need to paint it if I am going to (may not). Any suggestions?

 

[sberry]

How hard you want to work on it? I rolled some enamel yellow on top after I hit it with the DA and spray bombed some red on the front. I did put some Imron in the tank and if I wanted a super lasting deal would do it with that.

 

[TheBadDog]

Well, I guess that's my answer. I was concerned that spray bombs wouldn't hold up at all on a solvent tank. So based on that, basically any 2 part paint should be fine on the outside. The inside, not concerned with that at this point.

I had considered Imron, but haven't even heard that name in years. Stuff is unbelievable tough. But if it's still like it was, unbelievably expensive too.

As for how hard I want to work on it, I would say that a quick once over with DA, phosphoric wash down to etch and kill rust, and spray... that's about my limit. One of the reasons I was thinking to take on the "patina" approach was minimal prep required, and I like old machines still wearing their years. Should probably just put it into service and not worry about it, but it is unlikely to ever be clean enough to paint again in the future. Even without any coating it will easily outlive me and my children here in the desert SW. Particularly when the solvent/oil film starts to coat it.

Anyway, based on how good your's looks after obviously having seen some use, I'll probably just pick up a couple of cans of red and a can of white Rustoleum (appears to be original colors on mine), run it over with DA and phos, then spray and call it good enough.