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Finished Air piping project

rjprice

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 5, 2006
Messages
64
Location
tx
Just finished piping my shop for air. 3/4" header, 1/2" drops. 2 reels inside and one outside on the lean-to. 4 double drops inside. 3/8" I/M connectors.

Never got really neat with the soldering but I had ZERO leaks (except for 2 threaded brass connections which I fixed).

Lessons learned: think about how to do it with fewer fittings!

Need a better compressor now. Some pictures:
 

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tpierce

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Jun 23, 2011
Messages
177
Very sanitary, nice job! What did you use for the stand-offs?
 
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rjprice

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 5, 2006
Messages
64
Location
tx
Thanks. 3/4 T&G plywood.

I used split-ring pipe hangers, a base and a piece of threaded rod for hangers. Bought online, about $3 each. Ouch.
 

infinkc

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Joined
Jan 19, 2012
Messages
862
very nice. only comment would be, i dont think you needed a drain drop by the hose reel like you did since you really cant drain out that hose, if anything put a water trap going to the reel. If you do swap out the compressor, add a disconnect pre-regulator, it can be nice to have full pressure when you may need at a later point.

like that you left the ends with pipe for future expansion instead of ending with an elbow.
 
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MrSurly

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Jan 15, 2014
Messages
1,671
Location
East Texas
Sweet sweet install! Loving the Klipsch! I have Choruses on the home theater along with K5 in-walls
 
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rjprice

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 5, 2006
Messages
64
Location
tx
very nice. only comment would be, i dont think you needed a drain drop by the hose reel like you did since you really cant drain out that hose, if anything put a water trap going to the reel. If you do swap out the compressor, add a disconnect pre-regulator, it can be nice to have full pressure when you may need at a later point.

like that you left the ends with pipe for future expansion instead of ending with an elbow.

Thanks. The reels are in the center of the building and each side slopes to the middle where the reel is (the low point in the system). The drain comes off the bottom of the header whereas the feeder for the reel comes off the top of the header. Water should drain into the drain leg which should hold quite a bit. Hard to see but there is a 3/4" ball valve at the compressor.
 

GooberMcNutly

Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2008
Messages
11
Location
Central Florida
Came here to look for ideas on piping the drops for my new air system, and there you go, same system and some good ideas! I love this board.

I'm doing the same 3/4 run and 1/2 drops. If you were going to sweat the fittings, you could have saved a lot of money and just used a 4-way sweat and 3 threaded adapters and also avoided a couple of threaded joints.
 

sberry

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Joined
Jun 18, 2005
Messages
35,747
Location
Brethren, Michigan
Nice craft work and a good place to learn something took me a long time and seems you come to the conclusion,,, can do it with way less fittings.
I have been designing air for a long time, done it a lot of ways. If you need a hydrant 1 is plenty but plumbed to a whip or reel like you have is the real way to do it so a man never has to move a section of charged hose and screw all of it you can without connectors. Having 1 connector at the tool is the very best, people worry endlessly about a little loss thru connectors then put 2 or 3 in series where it only needs the 1.
Keep a few minor fittings on hand,,, and absolutely don't be scared to change it if it makes for most convenience. Air is all about that, ease of use. Doesn't need the amount of outlets electric does, not so much parasitic attatchment.
 

665.0coupe

Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2010
Messages
20
Location
Salina, KS
In the past I have done air lines using black steel pipe. Is there an advantage to using copper?

Copper wont rust from the inside out. To me, it's easier to cut and sweat copper than to cut and thread black iron. Also easier for me to get joints to not leak with sweated joints. Copper is more expensive.

My last couple installs I used PEX. That's what I will use in the future.
 
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