Finished drywall renovation box????

[rjacobs]

Just bought a house. Need to install a 6-50 NEMA plug and either 30 or 50 amp service for my welder. My current welder runs on 30 amp up to full power, but if I get a new welder in the future, it might require more, thats why I am thinking ill just go with 50 amp. Run would be less than 3 feet of wire. Probably go with 8 gauge to make the 50 amps legal.

My question is about the outlet box. The garage is finished out already(drywall, tape, mud, textured walls, and paint). Not terribly concerned about it as the CB panel is out in the garage and I should be able to pull the cover and drop wire straight out the bottom and to a box and plug.

Are there better boxes for this finished drywall than the cheap *** blue "renovation" boxes you find at home depot? I dont think they are "rated" to 50 amps anyway(although I can find no reference to that so probably making **** up). While I am sure one of those would suffice, if something better exists, within the confines of not tearing up my drywall outside of cutting the small hole for it, im all ears.

 

[Norcal]

I would not even consider a cut-in box for that purpose, as the normal insertion/ withdrawal of the plug could rip the box out of wall, cut the drywall and firmly mount the box to the framing members.

 

[Movover]

Surface mount a 4 square box onto a stud ?

 

[rjacobs]

I would not even consider a cut-in box for that purpose, as the normal insertion/ withdrawal of the plug could rip the box out of wall, cut the drywall and firmly mount the box to the framing members.

i know its not ideal. And yes ideally I would cut into the drywall and mount a box better, but on a brand new house, textured walls, etc... it PAINS me to cut into it any more than I need to.

I always have my 50' extension cord(8/3 welder specific extension cord) plugged in so I wouldnt most likely ever plug or unplug anything from this outlet so the stress I would be placing on it would be minimal. My welder power cord is only 6' so its so short I have to use the extension cord no matter what. My damn MIG leads are only 6' as well.

I understand the stresses the 6-50 plugs put on, but like I said, I dont believe I would be subjecting this plug to really any stress and a "reno" or "old work" box would be plenty strong.

Mostly seeing if there is a "better" one than the blue plastic. I see HomeDepot and Lowes have metal ones which is probably the way I will go.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

I wouldnt use an old work box for a 6-50r either.

And no there isnt any other type thats better.

 

[bwringer]

You're worried about the drywall finish in a place where you'll be welding?

I know what you mean, though... you hate tearing up nice work. Personally, I'd locate a stud, get a good sturdy box and mount it to the stud while tearing up as little of the drywall as possible. If you're clever and nimble, you can probably get it mounted solidly without too much damage.

And if you're lucky, you might be able to find an oversize cover plate or a cover plate extender something like this that will cover the damage:
http://www.kyleswitchplates.com/jumbo-double-range-or-dryer-power-outlet-covers-with-2-125-hole/

 

[Jlarson]

Arlington One Box

 

[rjacobs]

You're worried about the drywall finish in a place where you'll be welding?

I know what you mean, though... you hate tearing up nice work. Personally, I'd locate a stud, get a good sturdy box and mount it to the stud while tearing up as little of the drywall as possible. If you're clever and nimble, you can probably get it mounted solidly without too much damage.

And if you're lucky, you might be able to find an oversize cover plate or a cover plate extender something like this that will cover the damage:
http://www.kyleswitchplates.com/jumbo-double-range-or-dryer-power-outlet-covers-with-2-125-hole/

Im pretty careful when welding, dont weld against the walls, etc... Its a residential garage so I cant get to crazy anyway.

Im thinking I might be able to get one of the metal boxes with a flange around it and slide it in under the dry wall against a stud, run a couple screws through the whole thing and angle a screw or two through the side into the stud. Should work out.

Arlington One Box

I like this idea. Ill have to check into this a little more.

 

[Evan(CA)]

Whenever I cut in a receptacle I try and use a plastic nail on box. Pull the nails and knock off the tabs so it can be cut in and then put 2-3 screws on the inside and attach it directly to a stud. The plastic cut in boxes should really only be used for switches. The constant use of an outlet will eventually damage the drywall and the box will pull out.

In your case I think you could get by with a standard plastic nail on like above if you really want it flush mounted and don't want to open walls but if it's only 3' from the panel I might consider surface mounting a box.

Arlington One Box

This isn't a cut in box and if he's going to have to open up the walls he might as well just use a deep 4s bracket box. Those adjustable boxes are normally just used in kitchens and bathrooms or on outside receptacles for convenience. Anywhere where the exact finished surface height off rough framing isn't known. You usually have a good idea but it's nice to not have to worry about it and to just be able to adjust the box perfectly after the fact.

 

[Norcal]

Whenever I cut in a receptacle I try and use a plastic nail on box. Pull the nails and knock off the tabs so it can be cut in and then put 2-3 screws on the inside and attach it directly to a stud. The plastic cut in boxes should really only be used for switches. The constant use of an outlet will eventually damage the drywall and the box will pull out.

In your case I think you could get by with a standard plastic nail on like above if you really want it flush mounted and don't want to open walls but if it's only 3' from the panel I might consider surface mounting a box.



This isn't a cut in box and if he's going to have to open up the walls he might as well just use a deep 4s bracket box. Those adjustable boxes are normally just used in kitchens and bathrooms or on outside receptacles for convenience. Anywhere where the exact finished surface height off rough framing isn't known. You usually have a good idea but it's nice to not have to worry about it and to just be able to adjust the box perfectly after the fact.

You do realize that code requires the nails / screws outside the box?

 

[Jlarson]

This isn't a cut in box and if he's going to have to open up the walls he might as well just use a deep 4s bracket box. Those adjustable boxes are normally just used in kitchens and bathrooms or on outside receptacles for convenience. Anywhere where the exact finished surface height off rough framing isn't known. You usually have a good idea but it's nice to not have to worry about it and to just be able to adjust the box perfectly after the fact.

You don't have to open the walls. You cut a hole and screw it the the stud.

 

[mobiledynamics]

I'm old school - all ac/mc with steel boxes.

With something like a 6-50......will a plastic box screwed only on 1 side to a stud be ridgid enough ?

Granted, generally I be putting blocking on the back spanning both sides and securing the box to the back as well.

Just wondering

 

[Evan(CA)]

You do realize that code requires the nails / screws outside the box?

Yup but it's done all the time. In a wood framed remodel situation the end result is much better doing it that way than a cut in box. I've never seen an inspector call anyone on it in 5 years.

 

[kinglake]

You do realize that code requires the nails / screws outside the box?

How does the Arlington One get away with this? They are listed as code compliant although the screws are very obviously inside the box.

 

[Evan(CA)]

You don't have to open the walls. You cut a hole and screw it the the stud.

I don't know what happened but you're post had a hyperlink that showed an arlington adjustable box originally.

 

[Orionrising]

paint a 1x6 white, drill a hole in the middle, feed the wire down to a hole in the wall, mount the 1x6 across two studs with the box on it.

 

[rjacobs]

I appreciate the advice guys.

Like I said, I will be plugging my extension cord into it basically once and it will never be unplugged, or I should say, rarely be unplugged simply because the power cord on my welder is so damn short. So im not necessarily concerned with wear and tear on it and it possibly pulling out.

I believe I will be checking into either that arlington box(if I can find them locally) or I will use a regular deep blue box and modify it to be able to run a few screws into the side and into a stud. I think anchoring it to a stud wont prove very difficult and I agree will make it way more secure.

 

[kossuth]

Arlington One Box

DITTO.... Might have to look at an electrical supply store to find these though.