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Finished hidden soffit shelving project....

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walker450

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Nice!

I may do something like this one day... I've always thought of adding shelves in that area but the sliding doors look sooooo much better.

Thanks for sharing.
 
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Vicious_Cycle

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It looks nice. I've considered doing the same, and still may do so.

I agree with the others who dislike the pegboard doors. I think Lexan doors would fit nicely in those tracks and look a lot better. They'd also reflect the light better.
 
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VC455

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+1 on Lexan. I did a similar project, used lexan sliding doors, left the paper on the back of the Lexan to make opaque and give woodish color while also being clean and shiny, retaining reflective properties. I've also painted the inside of Lexan while, obvious reasons.
 
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mad57

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great job very well done, peg board doors excellent idea, and maybe diamond plate alum for doors next time:).
 
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Test Tech

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That is great! I've been thinking of similar shelving on two of the walls of my garage, with a corner shelf for a tv in the corner. How did you set up the tracks for the sliding doors? And where did you get the tracks & rollers?
 
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regguy1

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Test Tech said:
That is great! I've been thinking of similar shelving on two of the walls of my garage, with a corner shelf for a tv in the corner. How did you set up the tracks for the sliding doors? And where did you get the tracks & rollers?
Click to expand...

Thanks....

The tracks are just plastic sliding type, no rollers. I used finish nails to attatch them to wood frame. You need to use a needle nose plier to hold nails when starting them and then set them in slightly so they won't catch the doors (bottom mainly) They only came in tan so I painted the exposed edge to match other trim pieces.

I used these tracks:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FPAOUQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 
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Garage_Mahal

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Are you using Simpson Strong-Ties to attach the verticals to the ceiling? Do you have a closer pic of the arrangement? I'm contemplating doing something similar in my garage.
 
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LWW

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SF Bay
I would so love to steal this idea. Unfortunately, my garage door tracks snug up tightly to my rafters to make room for my lift and there's only a very narrow space left between the track and the side wall. The back of my garage is already hung with "recycled" kitchen cabinets... ;(

Fabulous idea and excellent execution.
 
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JimVonBaden

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I did mine similar, but not nearly so pretty!

getting-started.jpg

Nearly-done-shelves.jpg

full2.jpg

The two end pieces went through the ceiling and screwed directly to the rafters. The other end cross braced to the long sides. This was VERY strong, and not hard to build. We did it in a day.

Jim :cool:

PS I plan to build my new garage more like yours!
 
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regguy1

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TravisT

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Mr onetwo said:
I would never use Tap-cons in block.Check out this pdf on Powers dropins made for hollow block.They are plenty strong and are not sensitive to spalling on the back side of the block.Hope this helps!:thumbup: http://www.powers.com/pdfs/mechanical/09340.pdf
Click to expand...

Good info. I've never really dealt with concrete block, but assumed tapcons would work for them like they do for concrete. Thanks for setting me straight in case I ever need to do something like this.
 
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saxman2u

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Aug 23, 2011
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regguy1 said:
What do you think ??
What could I have done better or differently ?

Just finished the Soffit Shelving Project...a lot of work and details :)

None of the shelves sit on the lower framing, all weight will be suppported by the upright metal brackets bolted to top plate of wall in back and 2 x 4 hangers bolted to rafters. The Soffit is 26' long and has 8 18" x 36" shelving units with 2 shelves each and I can add more with closer spacing for bin boxes if needed. It's like having 3 full height shelving units without sacrficing one SF of floor space, plus everything will be out of sight behind the sliding doors.

Now I have to paint the overhead door, the walk in door and do the floor epoxy and I'm done!....Unless I think of something else :confused:

Update: Added photo of completed epoxy floor
Click to expand...

It looks like you came 18" down from the ceiling and 18" off of the wall. Can you verify this? I am trying to figure out if I want to come out 24" off the wall, but I think that will be a little too much. Starting to put up my blocking for these to come in the spring. Thanks.
 
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regguy1

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saxman2u said:
It looks like you came 18" down from the ceiling and 18" off of the wall. Can you verify this? I am trying to figure out if I want to come out 24" off the wall, but I think that will be a little too much. Starting to put up my blocking for these to come in the spring. Thanks.
Click to expand...

I checked the measurements 22" off the wall and 22" down from ceiling
It has 18" shelving inside, you could vary the size to fit your needs.....
 
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DIYNC

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Looks as though you ran all the 2x4 verticals along a single ceiling joist. Any concerns with exerting to much weight on the joist. Or it looks like your metal shelving is holding the load for the most part which is not fastened to the ceiling, correct? Great minds think alike as your vision was mine. Someone just referred this link to me. Great Job!
 
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regguy1

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DIYNC said:
Looks as though you ran all the 2x4 verticals along a single ceiling joist. Any concerns with exerting to much weight on the joist. Or it looks like your metal shelving is holding the load for the most part which is not fastened to the ceiling, correct? Great minds think alike as your vision was mine. Someone just referred this link to me. Great Job!
Click to expand...


Thanks,
Yes, a good bit of load is taken by metal shelf uprights screwed to the wall top plate and some by front 2x4 screwed to trussses with 90 degree metal brackets. the framing is mainly for concealment and door tracks.
 
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