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Finished hidden soffit shelving project....

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regguy1

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What do you think ??
What could I have done better or differently ?

Just finished the Soffit Shelving Project...a lot of work and details :)

None of the shelves sit on the lower framing, all weight will be suppported by the upright metal brackets bolted to top plate of wall in back and 2 x 4 hangers bolted to rafters. The Soffit is 26' long and has 8 18" x 36" shelving units with 2 shelves each and I can add more with closer spacing for bin boxes if needed. It's like having 3 full height shelving units without sacrficing one SF of floor space, plus everything will be out of sight behind the sliding doors.

Now I have to paint the overhead door, the walk in door and do the floor epoxy and I'm done!....Unless I think of something else :confused:
Take a quick tour, See the completed interior video link here:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=140674

Update: Added photo of completed epoxy floor
 

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weicm3

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looks great! what did you use for the covering underneath? drywall?
 
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regguy1

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mixxmstrmike said:
Not a big fan of peg board as doors, but overall great execution! :thumbup:

-Mike
Click to expand...

Thanks...

I really wanted to use the same paneling that's on the top and bottom for the doors to mantain the same look, but the paneling isn't tempered and is to thin...and I would've had to laminate it to a backing and then dado the edges back down to 1/4" thickness to fit the sliding door tracks. So after much consideration I went with the easy way.

Here's how it looked before and after:
 

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regguy1

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weicm3 said:
what's the trick to make it look seamless.
Click to expand...

Wasn't easy. measure carefully and custom cut each piece..then I put it up with clamps and marked the ends to match the wall and edge of previous piece then took it down for custom cut. I have everything fitted to about 1/16" + - and I filled the gaps and brad nail holes with white painters caulk and gave it a second coat of paint after everthing was done.
 
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regguy1

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blkhonda1991 said:
i dont know about the "L" brackets being the only support, but it looks good
Click to expand...

Each 2x4 has 4 screws into the rafter above, I can do a chin up on any one of them...I kind of rationalized that any load spread out front to rear and over 7 2x4's and 2 supports at the wall ends should be sufficient. I sure hope I'm right :wtf:
 
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TheGrooveking

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I've been contemplating a similar design, thanks for the pictures. I do dig the pegboard doors from the fact that (I know may be hard to keep items on them) still overs usuable space. On the forward most door in each pair you could mount a spray can holder near the bottom.

TheGrooveking
 
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bchee

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Looks great but why is this considered "soffit" space?
I thought the soffit was something else.
 
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sevnd3z28

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I call it a bulkhead but whatever it's called....I call it fantastic!:thumbup: Great idea and very nicely done!
 
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regguy1

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sevnd3z28 said:
I call it a bulkhead but whatever it's called....I call it fantastic!:thumbup: Great idea and very nicely done!
Click to expand...

Thanks......

I've been used to calling that type of structure soffit as in where you hang cabinets underneath in the kitchen as well as outdoor under eaves space.

Maybe you have a better term in bulkhead up in Canada. Certainly eavetroughing is more civilized sounding than "gutters" :)

Maybe we could coin a new term for Garage areas of this type....

How about: ceiling junk cave..... or: storage alley in the sky :wtf:
 
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autoclassicnut

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I think it looks good, I noticed that you had to add another row of lights... Kind of like the overhead storage in an airplane...
 
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gmhill33

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regguy1 said:
What do you think ??
What could I have done better or differently ?

Just finished the Soffit Shelving Project...alot of work and details :)

None of the shelves sit on the lower framing, all weight will be suppported by the upright metal brackets bolted to top plate of wall in back and 2 x 4 hangers bolted to rafters. The Soffit is 26' long and has 8 18" x 36" shelving units with 2 shelves each and I can add more with closer spacing for bin boxes if needed. It's like having 3 full height shelving units without sacrficing one SF of floor space, plus everything will be out of sight behind the sliding doors.

Now I have to paint the overhead door, the walk in door and do the floor epoxy and I'm done!....Unless I think of something else :confused:
Click to expand...

They look really good. How did you make the door to slide?


Gary
 
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e-tek

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Looks really good. Very professional. I did the hanging shelves too -also to save floor space. I used threaded rod tho - so as not to use up any "frontal" space either. But then your 2x4 strcuture allows for your door framing. Mines all open.
 
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scuba0459

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I showed the pictures of you overhead storage and all your peg board to my wife and she said "there is a guy who hates to drywall" I am not sure if you do but what a great way to avoid taping and sanding.

Well done!

Albert
 
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Dan in Pasadena

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I know I am resurrecting an older thread but can you post some closeup pix of the framing of your soffits?

After staring at it awhile, it looks like you built a regular "ladder frame" of 2x4's, then you (somehow) mounted standard metal shelving units inside, but cut them off to lengths equal to the height of your soffit. Have I got that right so far? Presumably so you could have an adjustable or removable shelf in there?

Couldn't the same thing have been accomplished cheaper with plain surface mounted ratchet strips on the back wall and on the interior of the upright 2x4's?

Also, the thing that REALLY confuses me: In the first photo (no metal installed yet) the bottom 2x4 looks like it has a piece of 1x2 sistered to it, or you cut it back for some reason? What was that for, what am I missing?
 
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JC23

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Reg,

I've long appreciated the logic behind such work but it took your execution to really get me thinking about using that sysytem in my shop.

Thanks and good luck with it.
 
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regguy1

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Dan in Pasadena said:
I know I am resurrecting an older thread but can you post some closeup pix of the framing of your soffits?

After staring at it awhile, it looks like you built a regular "ladder frame" of 2x4's, then you (somehow) mounted standard metal shelving units inside, but cut them off to lengths equal to the height of your soffit. Have I got that right so far? Presumably so you could have an adjustable or removable shelf in there?

Couldn't the same thing have been accomplished cheaper with plain surface mounted ratchet strips on the back wall and on the interior of the upright 2x4's?

Also, the thing that REALLY confuses me: In the first photo (no metal installed yet) the bottom 2x4 looks like it has a piece of 1x2 sistered to it, or you cut it back for some reason? What was that for, what am I missing?
Click to expand...

The lower frame is all 3/4" stock, the uprights are 2"x4" the bottom you're confused about is because I was originally going to put a seperate bottom panel under each shelving unit, then I realized it would be easier and look cleaner to make it soild pieces on the bottom. I did sister (glued and screwed) the bottom 3/4" pieces to create nailng surface for first idea. I had shelving left over when I closed my shop and did cut the uprights to fit the area. I simply put screws through existing holes to hang them. They are "clip shelves" so I can add or move shelves as / if needed. I'm not familiar with what you refer to as ratchet strips. You can't see it in the photo but I have T brackets (metal w/screws) on top of the wall board securing the sistered 3/4" pieces from pulling out and metal L brackets on back of 2"x4" uprights for extra support.
 

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