Finishing garage heater install. Quick question

[franksinatra]

I ended up with a Beacon Morris 45,000 heater. I am good with most everything my concern is the placement of my gas line and exhaust set up. First, if the pictures show up, would anyone object to the distance of my gas line from the exhaust vent? Should I route it somewhat different? Its only temporarily fastened on so its not an issue to try some other designs. Second, should I add a T to the exhaust for a clean out or condensation type trap? Finally, My exhaust run is around 4 to 5 feet, does it matter If I end up with a gradual rise or fall to the exterior cap? Thanks

 

[ratdoggy]

Shouldn't the piping be black pipe?
I'm guessing here and I'm aware that stoves and driers have flexible lines

 

[franksinatra]

The images turned 90 degrees on me but hopefully you get the idea

 

[franksinatra]

Do you mean the line coming in? (The copper pipe should be black pipe?). We just bought the house and the gas line was already there. Im guessing its fine but Its a fair question. Hopefully someone can help answer that question. I dedicated today to get it installed. Local HVAC company wanted 150.00 to come by and ? To do the work. I figured I would give it a try before I shell out that kind of change.

 

[jimindm]

I would think all gas should be run in a black iron pipe.

We had neighbors run a copper line to a natural gas grill, placed on their deck. Years went by and the smell of gas could be smelled. They put a shut of in the basement and just started using it when they wanted to use the grill. When the smell of gas got so bad they decided to quit using the grill, they tore the line out. Could not believe how corroded it was and just assumed it had pin holes threw out.

 

[franksinatra]

Just found this online: To let you know, copper has been used for gas pipe for years. At one time, the smell that is added to natural gas, so you can detect it, had a high concentration of corrosive additives. Thiophane or t-butyl mercaptan is used to add the smell to natural gas, because natural gas is odorless. The high concentrations were causing the copper pipe to flake off inside the pipe, and the flakes were causing stoppages in the small orifices, that are used in appliances. The gas industry has reduced the amount of these additives, so now there isn't a problem anymore. The reason odor additives were introduced into natural gas, stemmed from an explosion in 1937, in Rusk county, Texas. Over 300 students and teachers were killed on a Friday afternoon, when the 1 year old school was leveled when a gas leak, in the crawl space of the building, exploded when a shop teacher turned on an electric saw.

 

[Algoma56]

Copper tubing is allowed here, if it's sized for the volume of gas required for the appliance.
Beacon Morris lists the proper slope for horizontal runs in their installation sheets. Available online, if you don't have yours.

 

[Showkey]

I have seen that single wall thin galv pipe leak water, rust very quickly when used from the unit to the B pipe.

 

[Justind97]

I don't see a problem with the location of it. My setup is pretty similar. The only difference I have and as others have mentioned, I have black pipe that runs up my wall, then a flex pipe to connect the heater to it.
If I remember correctly, that flex pipe is coated in some sort of rubber/plastic.

The heat out the exhaust is hot, but it's not to the point where it can melt copper or anything. I have fiberglass sitting about 12" away from my exhaust for the past 2 years without problem.

 

[CNGsaves]

+1 that your NG supply line looks fine . . . . once picture orientation is rotated, even the drip leg is proper !! For you guys asking about copper for NG, it's common practice in upper midwest like MN, WI, MI, etc. Nothing wrong with it.

For the exhaust pipe, you need to follow manufacturer install rules, IN CONJUNCTION, with your local codes there in Minnesota. Don't shortcut and use improper pipe.

 

[franksinatra]

I changed some things around and feel a little safer about the gas line. I went with B vent so I think that should work out ok. I couldnt spring for the Stainless. If it starts to look bad in 5 years, I might change it then. Heres a quick question, Do I need 2 or 5 wire for the thermostat? I ended up purchasiing a Programmable unit and I wasnt sure if that changes things or if the additional wires are only for cooling. THanks for the help!!!