Finishing interior wall?

[inane2]

Good evening guys!

I'm working on converting a horse barn / indoor riding arena into a garage / workshop. This thing sat vacant and basically neglected for eight years in a divorce settlement (someone else's divorce settlement!) I've owned it for 3 years now and have been clearing out snakes and mice and clearing the exterior of trees and shrubs that were allowed to grow way to close. This is a 36'x48' barn with an attached 60'x96' indoor riding arena.

I've got all of my concrete poured and new overhead doors installed. I'm ready to finish and insulate the barn area. I'm working with the 36'x48' barn. The left 12' (running front to rear) consists of an office and two horse stalls. This leaves me with a 24'x48' clear working area. Due to this, I'm only finishing / insulating the front and rear walls (24') and the right wall (48'). The office and stalls are already finished.

Basic pole barn construction. 5"x5" posts, 12' OC. The wall consists of a 2x6 grade board, 3 more 2x6 girts and a 2x4 girt at the very top. Headers are 2x10 (single, on the inside only).

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I've got to do a little work to the corner pictured. I'm replacing the metal thanks to a small hole made by a Case 580L and replacing the grade board and a girt thanks to a leaky fiberglass skylight. Once I'm done, I'm going to finish the walls, probably with OSB. For insulation, I've got some 1/4" Low-E.

http://www.low-e.com/

So far, I have 2 questions for you all. The first is regarding to the header area. The posts are 12' OC but every 6' OC is a small piece of a 5"x5" post.

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I'm torn on how to approach this. I've considered putting up a 2x12 just below the 2x10 header. This will put the bottom of the 2x12 about 1 3/8" past the bottom of the cut of 5"x5" post. Then I thought about ripping a 2x8 running it flat towards the girt. This is kind of making a box, something that might look like a wooden gutter. It's just a rough thought, what do you all suggest?

Secondly, after I get the Low-E hung, would you guys place the OSB right against it and nail into the girt or would you frame out with 2x4's and nail the OSB to them instead? It makes no difference to me if the posts stick out from the wall or if the wall is flush with the posts. I'm running my new electric outside the wall in conduit, so nothing will be behind the wall except for insulation.

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I apologize in advance for the lengthy post but eagerly await any responses!

Thanks!

 

[HillsME]

If it was me I would frame it out so the finished interior is all flush with nothing sticking out. Insulate and then cover with 4x8 sheets of Hardie Board exterior siding. And definately run some wiring in the walls first so you don't have exposed conduit.

The Hardie board looks good, is very water and fire resistant and is easily painted to cover wear and tear.

Just my opinion!

 

[inane2]

Thanks for the suggestions. I may look into the Hardie board.

Definitely wanting to get this done. I installed a wood stove last winter but certainly need to insulate and finish my walls.

 

[Wastedwagesracing]

I'd like to see a picture of a shop done in the Hardie Board if anyone has one.

 

[HillsME]

I am trying a picture of my shop walls. The building was built in 1906 and was originally lathe and plaster. Had a lot of issues to deal with but got the walls insulated and covered pretty quickly with a hard and durable cover of Hardie Board. The stuff actually looks like old paneling so it fits the age of the building.

 

[Falcon67]

I'd be not inclined to use Hardi on the inside unless you are really really after a fire resistant wall cover. It is not quite as fragile as drywall, but it will bust and it's hard as hell on any blade brought against it for hole cutting. It'll eat a bi-metal hole saw in seconds where you could punch holes in that steel most of the day.

 

[HillsME]

Actually cutting wasn't bad. I used very course wood blades in my jig saw for outlet holes etc, and score both sides and break for long cuts.

A bigger pain was predrilling holes for the screws I used to attach; had to resharpen the bit about every 10 holes. I don't have a nail gun and you still need to predrill if you hand nail.

I hope nothing is flying around my shop with enough force to damage the panel. If so I have either a safety or anger problem!