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finishing Pine T&G porch ceiling

sherrod624

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ssdave

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No matter what you paint/stain it with, prepaint it before you install, and treat all 6 sides of the boards. Keeping moisture out of soffits/porch ceiling boards is the key to making the paint stay. If you don't paint all sides, there's opportunity for moisture to get in and behind the paint or stain, which greatly shortens it's life.
 

Kaizen

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It's easier to stain before install. Esp if painting t&g so you don't see paint/stain lines for half the year. Yes that's fine for ceiling. I wouldn't worry about sealing all sides like you need no siding. If roofed properly won't be an issue. I have original fir on my ceiling from 100 years ago. Looks fine


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Angelfire

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Be sure to apply a wood conditioner prior to stain....I typically use a spit coat of shellac or two or three depending on the board. Pine blotches horribly so if you don't want that look, treat the wood before staining. Oh, and yeah, I would definitely do all your finishing on the ground.....nothing worse than having to do it when it's all installed.
Cheers.
 

Gerald O

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Doing all 6 sides could trap any moisture remaining in the wood and may cause other issues.Wood needs to breathe.
On the contrary, sealing all 6 sides will prevent the uneven drying / moisture absorption that results in splitting and warping. Moisture will still migrate, just much more slowly.
 

bluesman

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I used hvlp sprayer in one hand and rag in other to wipe excess, top coat with master clear a very expensive top coat from Benjamin Moore stores.
 
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MushCreek

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My porch ceiling is white pine beadboard. I stained the pieces before putting them up, then applied a UV resistant spar varnish after installation. Pine darkens a lot. I used MinWax Pecan, which has barely any color to it. The UV resistant finish is to slow darkening. I wouldn't want my ceiling any darker. I made sure to leave a generous expansion gap on each side, and covered it with trim.
 

Cyberbear

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Make sure that the knots are properly sealed prior to finishing or they will bleed out as time passes. I'm not sure if this can be done with the stain you are thinking of using. Check with paint suppliers in your part of the country first.
 

Jackfre

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As an option, the traditional color for porch ceilings in light blue. Sky blue.
 
OP
S

sherrod624

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Be sure to apply a wood conditioner prior to stain.....

I think I read somewhere that you could use a mix of 2 parts mineral spirits 1 part stain as conditioner. would that be acceptable?

My porch ceiling is white pine beadboard. I stained the pieces before putting them up, then applied a UV resistant spar varnish after installation.

would it make sense to apply spar varnish over my treated posts and rails to protect them longer?

Make sure that the knots are properly sealed prior to finishing or they will bleed out as time passes.

luckily I don't have any knots

thanks for the help
 

Angelfire

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I think I read somewhere that you could use a mix of 2 parts mineral spirits 1 part stain as conditioner. would that be acceptable?



would it make sense to apply spar varnish over my treated posts and rails to protect them longer?



luckily I don't have any knots

thanks for the help

Mixing stain and min spirits in my mind would actually exacerbate the blotching as it would thin the stain to allow it to penetrate the wood even deeper. You want to seal the wood such that the stain doesn't penetrate much. My best advice is take a load of your cutoffs and experiment with different combinations to get the look you're after. For me, shellac has worked well. Then stain, then seal it all up. Another alternative is to use gel stain....I tried it once and it definitely helped with blotching but it didn't eliminate it. Consequently I went back to my shellac regiment. You can also buy the shellac premixed in the right cut (SealCoat by Zinsser) if you don't feel like making up your own from flakes.
 

strutaeng

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OP, spar varnish is good for water exposure, which you don't have, nor any abrasion from foot traffic, etc. Unless you want the gloss appearance, I wouldn't use varnish.

I would use a water-based semi-transparent stain meant for decks and fence (which is the product that you have listed.) This will protect against moisture and give you the UV protection. Forget the prestain conditioner.

Give the tongue and groove a coat of stain prior to installing because shrinkage over time may reveal raw wood.

Proceed!
 

Angelfire

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OP, spar varnish is good for water exposure, which you don't have, nor any abrasion from foot traffic, etc. Unless you want the gloss appearance, I wouldn't use varnish.

I would use a water-based semi-transparent stain meant for decks and fence (which is the product that you have listed.) This will protect against moisture and give you the UV protection. Forget the prestain conditioner.

Give the tongue and groove a coat of stain prior to installing because shrinkage over time may reveal raw wood.

Proceed!

He's working with pine, not a hardwood. Deck stains are fine for hardwoods as they don't tend to blotch like pine does. At the end of the day, it all depends on what the OP is happy with. He doesn't need much UV or moisture protection on the T&G as this is a covered ceiling. I would still test a few processes out and decide what works best rather than practicing on your ceiling itself.
Cheers.
 
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