Finishing pole barn interior

[Kakridge]

New to the group and I’ve searched some, but couldn’t find anything quite like what I have.

Looking to finish out the walls on the interior of the pole barn. Contractor ended up spraying 5” of foam instead of 3” so I am not able to frame normally unless I cut the foam. I would really appreciate some direction or suggestions.

Thank you.

 

[The Cobbler]

what is the center to center of the posts?
I would probably strap 2x horizontal over top of the foam from post to post and fasten 1/2 ply or osb to that

 

[bamawildcat]

I'd finish it out with a couple of cars instead of that gym equipment and *** swing.

In all seriousness, you don't need studs to hold up drywall. Run furring strip left to right across the example, just like the board at the top. Attach drywall to furring strips.

 

[Kakridge]

what is the center to center of the posts?
I would probably strap 2x horizontal over top of the foam from post to post and fasten 1/2 ply or osb to that

They are 10’ center to center.

 

[coalminer16]

Looks like your header boards holding the rafters between poles are 1.5 inches thick. You could finish off with wood that thick. 2x10s or what ever you can find that matches budget and looks for you.

Are you trying to make it to code? If so you may need to do that and then put drywall or fire bloc osb board. Otherwise tin, plywood or osb.

Don't complain about the extra insulation. Of that was closed cell it is R7 per inch thick so that is a lot of extra value there.

I had 2 on my polebarn walls. I have one none load barring wall with 9 foot centers. The rest is 6 foot. I am screwing fire bloc on to the poles with some scrap wood from the build to tie together to be braced better. Just starting. Then painting with a white oil based primer. And thinking of rubber cove for the bottom with the osb off the ground a bit to keep it out of the water.

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[ekimneirbo]

You can put 2x6 boards crossways between the beams. One at floor level, and one at the 4' level and another at the 8' level. You may have to remove a little foam here and there, but basically just span the ten feet. I'd use 3" deck screws to fasten the 2x6s. Then just glue and screw the drywall in place. Buy 12 ft sheets of drywall and place them horizontally.

 

[Kakridge]

You can put 2x6 boards crossways between the beams. One at floor level, and one at the 4' level and another at the 8' level. You may have to remove a little foam here and there, but basically just span the ten feet. I'd use 3" deck screws to fasten the 2x6s. Then just glue and screw the drywall in place. Buy 12 ft sheets of drywall and place them horizontally.

I like your thinking. It definitely needs to allow me to hang things on the wall. I’m not upset by the extra foam at all. It’s open cell and sealed great. Easy to heat and cool.

 

[Spook001]

I'd finish it out with a couple of cars instead of that gym equipment and *** swing.

In all seriousness, you don't need studs to hold up drywall. Run furring strip left to right across the example, just like the board at the top. Attach drywall to furring strips.

I like cars and all, but I’d definitely keep the *** swing..........

 

[Kakridge]

Thank you for all the suggestions everyone. Not a big car guy, but I do love the gym. In all seriousness if I became a car guy I’d just build a second barn for them and make this one a full gym.

 

[Kakridge]

If I used the 2x6s at the bottom, 5’ and towards the top and then 1/2” osb. Would this be strong enough to hang things on the wall? I’d like to have an area with hanging cabinets and then a place to hang some gym accessories.

 

[stm317]

If I used the 2x6s at the bottom, 5’ and towards the top and then 1/2” osb. Would this be strong enough to hang things on the wall? I’d like to have an area with hanging cabinets and then a place to hang some gym accessories.

I'd want more support than every 5 ft or so for hanging anything that will see some weight. Framing is there for strength, wall material is there for cosmetics. You don't want to rely on your wall material to support much of anything, especially if it will be supporting heavy gym equipment or even people. Cabinets will need to be supported at the top and bottom minimum, and perhaps in the middle too depending on the size/load.

But... if you've already got "bookshelf girts" laying horizontal as has been suggested, then it would be easy enough to run some boards vertically between them, but with the wide face out. That would give you a bunch more strength in the spots where you want it, and they would fit in the gap between your wall material and the foam insulation, so you wouldn't have to cut anymore foam out like you will with the bookshelf girts. You'd just have to be aware of where you've added support and where you haven't if you want to make layout changes or add things in the future. Although you could remove osb and add support if needed without too much hassle

 

[ekimneirbo]

If I used the 2x6s at the bottom, 5’ and towards the top and then 1/2” osb. Would this be strong enough to hang things on the wall? I’d like to have an area with hanging cabinets and then a place to hang some gym accessories.

You can hang lightweight things on the drywall by using some of those special screws that embed themselves in drywall and allow you to then put a screw in the center of them. Looks like a large screw thread and you just screw it into the drywall.
As for cabinets or anything with much weight, you need to figure out ahead of time where you want them and be sure that you have wood behind the drywall at that location. The 2x6s might be in a usable place or you might have to add a couple extra ones at the height you need to mount the cabinets.

 

[tonyciambrone]

You can hang lightweight things on the drywall by using some of those special screws that embed themselves in drywall and allow you to then put a screw in the center of them. Looks like a large screw thread and you just screw it into the drywall.
As for cabinets or anything with much weight, you need to figure out ahead of time where you want them and be sure that you have wood behind the drywall at that location. The 2x6s might be in a usable place or you might have to add a couple extra ones at the height you need to mount the cabinets.

Running horizontal strapping is cheaper and faster than building stick frame walls....Why you would use just 3 spaced a 4' is beyond me. I would go every 16" or 24" OC personally. Then like others say glue+drywall. What a happy accident that you got 2" more closed cell for free.

Drywall anchors **** period and the screw in/ toggle bolt make a giant hole when they fail.

 

[Kakridge]

Running horizontal strapping is cheaper and faster than building stick frame walls....Why you would use just 3 spaced a 4' is beyond me. I would go every 16" or 24" OC personally. Then like others say glue+drywall. What a happy accident that you got 2" more closed cell for free.

Drywall anchors **** period and the screw in/ toggle bolt make a giant hole when they fail.

I was planning on going with 24” spacing and 2x6x10 across. Finished with play wood since I can get it at a good price. The extra 2” of foam is awesome.

 

[MAYOR28]

Run some horizontal girts (probably 2x6) between the posts, screw plywood to that.

Plywood is nice, because you can just screw stuff to it, no need to find a stud. And if you really wanted to, you could paint medicine ball targets on the wall. Or do wall sits, or whatever you want......

Nice gym set-up. We have something similar happening in our attached garage now.....

 

[tonyciambrone]

I was planning on going with 24” spacing and 2x6x10 across. Finished with play wood since I can get it at a good price. The extra 2” of foam is awesome.

I think that's a perfect plan. I would spray or roll Kilz Original on the plywood, maybe even your finish coat before hanging. I would only suggest to make sure the first 2x6 is pretty close to flush with the floor so you don't end up kicking in the bottom. It's gonna be nice

 

[ekimneirbo]

Running horizontal strapping is cheaper and faster than building stick frame walls....Why you would use just 3 spaced a 4' is beyond me. I would go every 16" or 24" OC personally. Then like others say glue+drywall. What a happy accident that you got 2" more closed cell for free.

Drywall anchors **** period and the screw in/ toggle bolt make a giant hole when they fail.

My original suggestion: You can put 2x6 boards crossways between the beams. One at floor level, and one at the 4' level and another at the 8' level. You may have to remove a little foam here and there, but basically just span the ten feet. I'd use 3" deck screws to fasten the 2x6s. Then just glue and screw the drywall in place. Buy 12 ft sheets of drywall and place them horizontally.

Not sure how you interpreted that as suggesting he build stud walls ?


Not suggesting that the 2x6s be vertical like studs. Studs support walls which support roofs. No need for that here as there is already sufficient support. My suggestion was to place horizontal boards between the existing uprights as they only need enough strength to hold the drywall in place. The thing I would be concerned about with plywood is that its more difficult to paint in a consistant manner. There is a tendency for spots and areas to "show" through the paint later unless you use some really expensive sanded plywood. Plywood will definitely be more a lot expensive, and as it swells and compresses with humidity and temperature. Gaps may appear at the joints.
Drywall will pretty much not change size, not have knots and swirls that appear later thru the paint, and cost a lot less to purchase.In a "garage that is used by people with mechanical hobbies, the cheaper grades of plywood can be used. The OP is basically using his "shop" as an extension of his living space and may prefer a more finished look. That choice is up to him and his pocket book.
As for the drywall anchors, they couldn't be any simplier to install and they are pretty easy to remove if necessary. Don't know what your definition of a "large hole" is, but removing one and filling in the hole is about as easy as any home repair can be. Two minutes to fill the hole, come back later when its dry, and another two minutes to sand it smooth. The ones I like don't have toggle bolts. See the attached picture.

 

[The Cobbler]

another idea... spend some time locating the horizontal strapping that the siding is screwed to and screw 1x3 or 1x4 to that .

 

[Kakridge]

Run some horizontal girts (probably 2x6) between the posts, screw plywood to that.

Plywood is nice, because you can just screw stuff to it, no need to find a stud. And if you really wanted to, you could paint medicine ball targets on the wall. Or do wall sits, or whatever you want......

Nice gym set-up. We have something similar happening in our attached garage now.....

Thanks. It is probably one of the best decisions we made. Saves us a ton of time just walking to the barn to do a workout vs driving somewhere with 3 kids.

 

[Kakridge]

I’m going with 2x6x10 and then 3/8” plywood over it. I’ll let everyone know how it turns out. I figure worst case I cut some foam and put a 2x4 behind them to add rigidity.