finishing pole garage

[steveo2155]

I am potentially going to be acquiring a property with a detached pole garage. I will have to get the exact dimensions but it looks to be somewhere around
28 x 28. The concrete floor is in good shape, no settling or anything. The metal is in good shape, could use some painting. The interior needs insulating and finishing. I would like to make it look at least somewhat nice as this is the only garage on the property so it would be used for storing 2 vehicles and weekend projects. However I am on a tight budget and would like to spend as little as possible while still making it look halfway decent. I had a few questions was hoping to get some suggestions with.

1. For the exterior, what kind of paint would you use and what is the best way to go about this? There doesn't look to be any rust and the steel looks to be in good shape with the exception of a few pieces that are dented or have a hole in them. Reason for painting would be unattractive colors that do not go with the house.

2. I would like to avoid putting studs up if at all possible. Would foam board be the most economical way to go about insulating and what about for the ceiling? Also could use tips for this process as well.

3. For the interior walls if I can avoid putting studs up I was thinking either OSB painted white or dry wall. Would I just attach this to the boards between the poles and leave the poles exposed or how is the best way to go about this?

Again I am looking for the cheapest way to do this while still making it look good. I like the idea of painted white OSB for hanging stuff and not having to mess with finishing drywall. I am open to all suggestions. Thanks.

 

[Shootinok]

Painting that metal won't be an inexpensive undertaking. Then OSB and paint on the interior too?

What about buying the color metal you want, take off the old and use it inside as a liner panel.

 

[chaosracing]

Please post location for better help

I am potentially going to be acquiring a property with a detached pole garage. I will have to get the exact dimensions but it looks to be somewhere around
28 x 28. The concrete floor is in good shape, no settling or anything. The metal is in good shape, could use some painting. The interior needs insulating and finishing. I would like to make it look at least somewhat nice as this is the only garage on the property so it would be used for storing 2 vehicles and weekend projects. However I am on a tight budget and would like to spend as little as possible while still making it look halfway decent. I had a few questions was hoping to get some suggestions with.

1. For the exterior, what kind of paint would you use and what is the best way to go about this? There doesn't look to be any rust and the steel looks to be in good shape with the exception of a few pieces that are dented or have a hole in them. Reason for painting would be unattractive colors that do not go with the house. Depends on color and durability. Is there any chalking? Fix the holes, replace dented panels if you want. It should be washed (check with paint manuf. for recommendations), then since you can not sand it, a self etch primer, then paint. (Do not skip this step, I have seen paint peel right off repainted metal) Any decent high solids exterior grade paint will work, but the better ones come at a cost.

2. I would like to avoid putting studs up if at all possible. Would foam board be the most economical way to go about insulating and what about for the ceiling? Also could use tips for this process as well. Depends on your climate. Texas, Florida, Georgia, Southern Cal. sure. New England, Illinois, PA, ND, etc no way.

3. For the interior walls if I can avoid putting studs up I was thinking either OSB painted white or dry wall. Would I just attach this to the boards between the poles and leave the poles exposed or how is the best way to go about this? Either studded or non studded I would go with OSB. Way more durable than drywall. You can definitely go between the poles and leave them exposed. You can get your joints/gaps as tight as possible, caulk them and then prime and paint. OSB ***** up primer big time. Figure 2x what it says on the can. If you go over foam insulation, I would go with a fastener that has a pan head for better securement.

Again I am looking for the cheapest way to do this while still making it look good. I like the idea of painted white OSB for hanging stuff and not having to mess with finishing drywall. I am open to all suggestions. Thanks.

 

[rburke65]

You might want to look in the Garage Gallery.....lots of pictures there that could be a wealth of information for you you.

 

[rayra]

Painting that metal won't be an inexpensive undertaking. Then OSB and paint on the interior too?

What about buying the color metal you want, take off the old and use it inside as a liner panel.

LMFAO. You think painting is too costly then suggest putting all new metal on instead? You must be a metal panel vendor.


OP, a pass with a pressure washer and rent a paint sprayer, one with a long extension tube on the nozzle, so you can paint the roof from a ladder and not get up on it. Beware, that metal will be slick / dangerous to get up on without a tether. Even when it's 'dry'.

 

[steveo2155]

I am located in the Midwest. I also may get some quotes to get it painted but if too high I may do it myself. I am thinking the foam board and osb is the way I am going to go for the interior. How about the ceiling insulation? Metal ceiling?

 

[chaosracing]

What we did in my buddies shop was fasten 1" EPS foam to the rafters, then put white metal over that. We then put in blown cellulose insulation after the ceiling was buttoned up. We installed an access door to the space above the ceiling. You dont necessarily have to put the foam under the panels (when I build my shop I am not putting foam under the panels) but I would at least install tyvek or plastic film (vapor barrier) over the rafters, then your ceiling material.

I would go with white metal panels on the ceiling. OSB would be cheaper though and you can paint that white as well.

For the walls since you said you are in the midwest, I would put fiberglass insulation in the walls. You can stud out 24" oc and get a bigger batt. To get a decent R value in foam, you would have to be around 3" to 4" (Polyiso is R6 per inch) and its expensive. What I plan on doing in mine is put DOW foam (Extruded) against the metal, between the wood frame, stud out and put fiberglass in then OSB on the walls.

 

[Voi]

3. For the interior walls if I can avoid putting studs up I was thinking either OSB painted white or dry wall. Would I just attach this to the boards between the poles and leave the poles exposed or how is the best way to go about this?

Do you know or recall if the pole barn had regular girts or bookshelf girts?

Regular girts are face nailed to the exterior side of the columns.

Bookshelf girts run between the columns and are face up, like a shelf.

If the barn has bookshelf girts you probably won't need to do anything for attaching interior sheathing.

If the barn has regular girts you can add bookshelf girts. Most like to attach the bookshelf girts directly to the regular girts. Some offset them to reduce thermal bridging.

I know you said you don't want to add studs but adding bookshelf girts is an in between option since you don't have the typical top and bottom plate arrangement of a typical stick built wall.

This is a bookshelf girt:

Regular girt (the boards above the skirt board):

 

[steveo2155]

If I remember right it is regular girt. Also there is white vinyl wrap insulation between the metal and girt.

 

[steveo2155]

I believe it is metal, white vinyl wrap insulation I think and then the regular girts. Is this white material just a kind of insulation or what is it purpose? Would it be ok to do rolls of insulation and then horizontal 2x4 attached to the poles followed up by drywall or osb?

 

[chaosracing]

If you can, post pics. That would help alot.
The white material is a house wrap. Like Tyvek of similar. It is supposed to help with air infiltration. You can do rolls of insulation, but need a way to secure them to the walls.

 

[steveo2155]

Thanks. I will post pictured as soon as I can. I was trying to avoid putting studs up but maybe that is the best cheapest way to go?

 

[forAK]

OP, a pass with a pressure washer and rent a paint sprayer, one with a long extension tube on the nozzle, so you can paint the roof from a ladder and not get up on it. Beware, that metal will be slick / dangerous to get up on without a tether. Even when it's 'dry'.

To paint the metal roof, what other prep is needed? It sounds too simple to just wash and paint.

What type of paint would work/adhere to the current metal color?

 

[chaosracing]

To paint the metal roof, what other prep is needed? It sounds too simple to just wash and paint.

What type of paint would work/adhere to the current metal color?

You really should use an adhesive promoter. Some manuf. might even recommend some kind of wash (other than pressure washer and water) Single stage urethanes or enamels probably the best bet and the least expensive.

Just remember this, any field applied paint will not hold up as good as the baked on finish from the metal manufacturer.

 

[Jeepster04]

1. Idk
2. My plan is to use 1.25" styrofoam on the walls nailed directly to the girts. My girts are nailed to the exterior side of the poles so my posts will be exposed. Them Ill screw the metal through the styrofoam to the girts. Ill be using blown in insulation on the ceiling once my plastic and metal is up.
3. See above