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Finishing raw Corian edge
- Thread starter 1190R
- Start date
DBS5Window
Well-known member
I would suggest making a template out of 1/4” thick material and use a carbide router bit with a bushing or bearing then follow with a round over bit. It will make a dusty mess but should address the issue.
I would suggest making a template out of 1/4” thick material and use a carbide router bit with a bushing or bearing then follow with a round over bit. It will make a dusty mess but should address the issue.
This is the right way to do it.
Small bites, corian is hard/brittle. I'd suggest something smooth curves, especially the inside corners.
Got a wider shot?
Maybe some trim is an easier "homeowner" fix
as far as I know Corian doesn't like sharp corners and will cause a crack . I agree with using a router & guide or template. sanding & polishing with any woodworking type tools for a clean up
It looks like the righthand corner cracked already.as far as I know Corian doesn't like sharp corners and will cause a crack . I agree with using a router & guide or template. sanding & polishing with any woodworking type tools for a clean up
Where would I find trim to match?This is the right way to do it.
Small bites, corian is hard/brittle. I'd suggest something smooth curves, especially the inside corners.
Got a wider shot?
Maybe some trim is an easier "homeowner" fix
Not all in oneIf this is one of those all in one vanity tops I'm surprised the edge isn't pourus
I see a pencil line and what I hope is a lighter vein in the material, but I thought the same thing when I made my comment about rounded cornersIt looks like the righthand corner cracked already.
Where would I find trim to match?
It won't match. It's a longshot but maybe you can hide the hack with something
Not all in one
Still, premade tops/cultured stone may be full of voids. Check bottom side before proceeding, would **** to neaten up that cut just to expose pockets.
You didn't cut that, did you?
Granite tops have steel 1/8" rods epoxied into the underside before cutting out for sinks and shape transitions. Of course that is all done to the bottom side turned over, not upside down and while still in the shop.
Just thinking maybe similar is possible with steel screen epoxied to the underside before any edge finishing is started. Clamp the mesh/wet epoxy tight to the underside with 3/4 plywood separated with wax paper, etc. Remove plywood, wax paper, clamp once dry. Wax paper probably all remains.
If you do expose voids, possibly grout or tile caulk could close them off. Then polish fresh edge with rotary pad and compound.
Just thinking maybe similar is possible with steel screen epoxied to the underside before any edge finishing is started. Clamp the mesh/wet epoxy tight to the underside with 3/4 plywood separated with wax paper, etc. Remove plywood, wax paper, clamp once dry. Wax paper probably all remains.
If you do expose voids, possibly grout or tile caulk could close them off. Then polish fresh edge with rotary pad and compound.
Last edited:
BillK
Well-known member
The Corian in our bathrooms is actually very easy to sand. I had to trim one side of one of the vanity tops and I just started with 80 grit sandpaper and worked my way up to 400. You cannot tell it from the factory edge.
Fav Onefour
Well-known member
That is correct. It sands easy. I have not tried a router. I wonder how easily it works with cutting.The Corian in our bathrooms is actually very easy to sand. I had to trim one side of one of the vanity tops and I just started with 80 grit sandpaper and worked my way up to 400. You cannot tell it from the factory edge.
I think some of the earlier advice was related more toward quartz tops. I have not found those easy to work.
That is correct. It sands easy. I have not tried a router. I wonder how easily it works with cutting.
Very easy.
Have had many offcuts turned into tables, windowsills, cutting boards, counter etc..over the years. Simple to cut, glue and finish with the right tools.
I think some of the earlier advice was related more toward quartz tops. I have not found those easy to work.
I was just cautioning OP that he may have surprises in his "corian like" material
The template with router bit will provide straight edges w/o waves and provide nice radiused corners to eliminate some of the stress at them.That is correct. It sands easy. I have not tried a router. I wonder how easily it works with cutting.
I think some of the earlier advice was related more toward quartz tops. I have not found those easy to work.
alinc100
Well-known member
As said above rout with a template providing a small radius at corners. Then a small routed radius /round-over on the edges. And then lots of sanding it will clean up and look great, It will be dusty and very messy.
Fav Onefour
Well-known member
Doing radiused corners would help on stress and tie in the looks.The template with router bit will provide straight edges w/o waves and provide nice radiused corners to eliminate some of the stress at them.
@1190R , Try doing a template of the current toilet lid and follow those lines. It would look pretty slick.
Ah crud, I think that was just mention before I posted.
snickers muncher
Well-known member
The above is correct. I used to make them and standard carbide woodworking tools will work fine.As said above rout with a template providing a small radius at corners. Then a small routed radius /round-over on the edges. And then lots of sanding it will clean up and look great, It will be dusty and very messy.
There are special bits and router bases you can use to splice in another piece or do a proper crack repair, but finding an exact material and epoxy match would be problematic. It would be far cheaper to just buy another top.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
That looks like it's probably too close to the wall to fit even a trim router in there. Might be relegated to just sanding it
Need to measure existing depth remaining toward wall, and consider how much material needs to come off for uniform edge to remain. Compare that with the available router's base.That looks like it's probably too close to the wall to fit even a trim router in there. Might be relegated to just sanding it
Hooked
Well-known member
Maybe my eyes are deceiving me but that looks to me to be a mitered joint. Or, a crack the 'animal' tried to cover with caulk.It looks like the righthand corner cracked already.