was wondering if there are any threads in here, or anybody with advice on how to finish the inside of a steel garage??? i've found good sources to condensation and moisture resistent insulation, but how people have mounted things on the walls or hung things is what i really need to see
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
finishing steel garage
- Thread starter that-guy
- Start date
NHBandit
Well-known member
Tagged so I can follow the responses.
This thread may help you with some ideas:
http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=158318
http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=158318
jkm4874ford
Well-known member
Good luck on the building. The inside will have zee shaped girts that you can attach stud framing to and finsh out with sheetrock. Or you can use metal wall panels on the inside for a finished look. You should be able to finish out the inside in any form from these two methods.
This thread may help you with some ideas:
http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=158318
in what way will this thread help me? he built an addition to his house in wood. there is no similarities between this and my building intentions
jkm, i'm going to have to look into the builder and see if it comes with teh zee girt feature to put in metal studs. that would seem to be the better way to go
my thought is to either use the steel specific insulation or to use spray foam, but i would still like to seal everything off and have a nicely finished interior
mattmankow
Well-known member
These responses really haven't shed any useful info on your project. I have a steel building and have never heard of these zee girts? Maybe that's on one of those half round military type buildings? And the other on with the link isa stick built garage.
Someone has to have finished the inside of a pole building?
Someone has to have finished the inside of a pole building?
The Boss
Well-known member
I'm planning on using the high impact & moisture resistant sheetrock National Gypsum makes. I think steel inside a large structure like that will be very noisy - we used the High Impact XP in an indoor basketball court I built last year and you can't put a mark in it, no matter what kind of ball you throw at it or how hard you throw it. Cost is a little higher than standard sheetrock, but you'll never have to fix it.
http://www.nationalgypsum.com/resources/faqs/xp.htm
http://www.nationalgypsum.com/resources/faqs/xp.htm
NakeDiesel
Well-known member
On my steel covered pole barn I am building, I am sparying 5 inches of spray foam on the inside, then will screw up 1x4's horizontally on the walls and across the trusses. I will then use painted white steel like used on the building to cover the walls, except where I'm putting my commercial kitchen, it will have FRP coverings on it's walls and it's drop ceiling. On the outside walls of the kitchen area that face the shop, I'm going to use the whiteboard sheets to cover the walls where my work area will be so that I have a place to make notes, etc.. while I'm working in there.
rumpity_z28
Well-known member
I read a post on here a while back of a guy with a 50x60 steel building that him and his wife refurbished. I think it would be a good read for ya, just do a search for 50x60 and it should pop up. I'm on my cell right now so I have no idea how to provide you with the link. They did an excellent job though, they even had a pool table in there it was quite well done.
hidollartoys
Well-known member
Is your building going to be "steel framed/steel skin" or "wood frame/steel skin"?
Makes a big difference in the way you can finish.
Mike
Makes a big difference in the way you can finish.
Mike
milner351
Well-known member
I have an old metal "pole" building - built by the Wicks lumber company. The exterior metal is corrugated aluminum. The building was a shell when I bought the property 10 years ago.
Given the cost of spray foam insulation - and the weight of the urethane closed cell foam - I went with icynene open cell foam on the underside of the roof panels only - that was over $2000 to have done.
For the walls, I sprayed rubber undercoating on the seams of the panels to help stop air infiltration through the walls, then I put 2" foam board up against the inside of the horizontal 2x6 purlins. On top of the foam I put typical corrugated white steel "barn siding" in 3ft wide sheets running vertically - attached through the foam with 3" screws to the purlins.
This was the least expensive and quickest / easiest way (with one person) to insulate and finish the walls.
Given the foam ceiling - the noise issue is not a problem - metal on roof and walls and concrete floor would be noisy.
Given the cost of spray foam insulation - and the weight of the urethane closed cell foam - I went with icynene open cell foam on the underside of the roof panels only - that was over $2000 to have done.
For the walls, I sprayed rubber undercoating on the seams of the panels to help stop air infiltration through the walls, then I put 2" foam board up against the inside of the horizontal 2x6 purlins. On top of the foam I put typical corrugated white steel "barn siding" in 3ft wide sheets running vertically - attached through the foam with 3" screws to the purlins.
This was the least expensive and quickest / easiest way (with one person) to insulate and finish the walls.
Given the foam ceiling - the noise issue is not a problem - metal on roof and walls and concrete floor would be noisy.
this is exactly what i plan on putting up (difference in size, but you can see the building process)
http://gaport.com/steel/buildings.htm
steel studs are def the way to go, i just need to see what the best way is to fasten the stud wall to the garage itself. then figure out what kind of drywall or whatever i want to put up
http://gaport.com/steel/buildings.htm
steel studs are def the way to go, i just need to see what the best way is to fasten the stud wall to the garage itself. then figure out what kind of drywall or whatever i want to put up
milner351
Well-known member
this is exactly what i plan on putting up (difference in size, but you can see the building process)
http://gaport.com/steel/buildings.htm
steel studs are def the way to go, i just need to see what the best way is to fasten the stud wall to the garage itself. then figure out what kind of drywall or whatever i want to put up
I wonder why they didn't line up the corrugations from the sides to the front?
Also - why run the corrugations horizontally - they quickly become little shelves to hold dirt.
I wonder why they didn't line up the corrugations from the sides to the front?
Also - why run the corrugations horizontally - they quickly become little shelves to hold dirt.
its made to match the siding on the house. don't know if that is the case with that particular house, but in some neighborhoods with HOA's, they get real nit-picky about the smallest details when adding a stucture to your property
I put up a similar building this summer, concrete floor, 3 rows of block and 18'x20' carport kit with enclosed end walls,9'w x8'tall overhead door. When it is real damp after a night of rain or frost, moisture condenses on the inside and drips. Insulation is a must, I will have to do this in the spring. My steel frame is spaced 5' apart, end walls are 2'x4' spaced 2' on center, easy to insulate. the steel frame is the problem, I priced spray foam, istalled at $1.25 per inch, per square foot. I also considered the white vinal faced pole barn insulation, have not priced it yet. I will cover the walls with7/16" OSB and leave ceiling with insulation exposed. This was saposed to be cheap storage for skidsteer, ATVs and lawn equipt. I would price a wood framed garage vs all steel, it may be cheaper to finish. The steel ribs do hold some dirt and water/snow. The steel frames go up quicker.
Dave
Dave