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Fire extinguishers

Cheap5.0

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I did some reading and it seems i should be ok with a rechargable water extinguisher for wood and a powder one for anything else?

I just wanted to see what others are doing before i start buying stuff...
 
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ADaughen

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Aug 2, 2010
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Ohio
I have a Kidde "Garage/Workshop" extinguisher model #21005765.

I need to get at least one more for the other corner of the garage.
 

Jim B

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California, USA
I was on my employer's Emergency Response Team for more than 8 years. Every year we were required to attend fire extinguisher training. It was conducted by an outside contractor. The biggest thing I took away from these sessions was that size does matter. Get a fire extinguisher that is at least 5 LBS. and 10 LBS would be even better. And make sure it is the correct kind for the type of fire you would encounter in your shop. during our training we would extinguish gasoline, some times floating on water. You were pretty darn lucky to put out 1 cup of gas with a 2 3/4 lb extinguisher. A 5 pounder would do it easily but the little ones pretty much offer a false sense of security, IMHO. And if you have to use it, even just a small amount, get it recharged as soon as possible as the powder residue in the valve can cause the valve to leak and let all the propellant escape.
 

mslisaj

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Well with fire extinguishers it's kind of how safe do you want to be and how big of a garage you're protecting. I have 3600 sqft shop to protect and I have a total of eight certified and tagged units in it. From ABC units to CO2 to a 35# Halon. When my husband and I were in business we caught a car on fire and because we had the extinguishers right close at hand we were able to save everything including the car. In my home I have an extinguisher by each entrance, one in my bedroom and one in the kitchen. You can't have too many in my opinion.

If you can battle the fire right from the beginning you have a chance to stop it and prevent a lot of damage. I had a friend that caught their home on fire and they didn't have anything to fight it with, the fire department showed up and took ten more minutes to get everything safe before they got busy fighting it. Needless to say my friends lost their home and everything in it. So I'm very serious about fire prevention and fighting it if I'm faced with it.

Lisa

P.S. Add a Halon unit in each one of my cars and one in my airplane. I'm serious on this subject. :thumbup:
 

smschriefer

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Yorktown, VA
I'd get a powder filled that is good for A, B, and C class fires. As Jim B stated, get one that is an appropriate size. Another good thing to do with a powder extinguisher is to check it periodically to ensure the powder hasn't become packed at the bottom. You don't want to hear a whoosh of air and no powder. Also a good idea to loosely place something over the end of the nozzle to prevent mud dobbers from making their home in the hose. I work Coast Guard Auxiliary and we see many boats burn due to these two issues (well, that and the other lack of maintenance issues that caused the fire to begin with).
 

38Chevy454

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Cincinnati, OH
I need to get more and larger for my garage. Any recommendations on the best place to get them, especially for good price? Since I do mostly car work, I suppose the std ABC type is good for me.
 

1967marti

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this makes me wonder... Where does one recharge a CO2 bottle? I'm thinking their local welding supply store? (airgas, westair, etc) If nothing else wouldn't a bottle filled with shielding gas work just as good as one filled with plain CO2? Would they even fill something other than a welding bottle though?
 

mslisaj

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I would recommend buying the larger Home Depot ABC Extinguisher or equivalent and as many as you can afford. Keep one by the door just in case you're out of the shop when the fire starts as you have something to go in with.

I had mentioned that we had caught a car on fire once. It was a gasoline fed fire and the fuel was running out of the fuel line after the suction filter burned off. We put a 15# CO2 on this and it never even dented the quantity of fire. There was four feet of flame coming out from under this hood. I took a 5# ABC off the wall and one quick blast and that fire was gone. I have never seen anything like it. The fire was out and over with. So ABC is the no brainer fire fighting solution. We got the big Halon unit after this fire in case something like this happened again on a new car or classic car and you didn't want to destroy the car with the fire fighting agent. But a good sized ABC is better then NO UNIT at all....................

Speaking from experience...............

Lisa
 

Thruxton

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Virginia
I'd get a powder filled that is good for A, B, and C class fires. As Jim B stated, get one that is an appropriate size. Another good thing to do with a powder extinguisher is to check it periodically to ensure the powder hasn't become packed at the bottom. You don't want to hear a whoosh of air and no powder. Also a good idea to loosely place something over the end of the nozzle to prevent mud dobbers from making their home in the hose. I work Coast Guard Auxiliary and we see many boats burn due to these two issues (well, that and the other lack of maintenance issues that caused the fire to begin with).

I'll second what I highlighted above. Especially if your extinguishers are in a barn or stable or otherwise accessible to mud daubers. We even have a little variety that likes to build nests in the ground plugs of 3-prong outlets.
 

Charles (in GA)

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I'll second what I highlighted above. Especially if your extinguishers are in a barn or stable or otherwise accessible to mud daubers. We even have a little variety that likes to build nests in the ground plugs of 3-prong outlets.

I have real problems with mud daubers. They do build everywhere, even when the building is closed up, they work real hard to get inside through a poor fitting door seal or wherever they can. I had one build in a fire extinguisher hose, unscrewed the hose, cleaned and washed it out and after that, I used the red plastic caps like those used to cap off fittings and electrical connections on new components we get at work. Mine are snug enough on the hose nozzles to stay on, but being red, are easy to spot and would blow off pretty easily if the extinguisher were used.

And oh yea, I bought all the plastic child protectors I could find for electric plugs, and virtually all unused receptacle positions are capped to keep them out of the ground pin holes.

Also, be sure and plug your extension cords together when not in use, and also plug your air hoses together also, and cap your wall air outlets.

Charles
 

machine_punk

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+1 on the 5- or 10-pound A-B-C extinguishers. I know it feels expensive to buy and maintain those, but how many thousands of dollars do you have invested in your shop and tools? How often do you do something to create sparks or flame in there?

Have a minimum of one fire extinguisher by each exit door, so you can grab it on the way out. If the fire is more than 'just a trash can,' don't even try to put it out...just get all humans to safety and call 911. Of course, an ounce of protection goes a long way...be careful where you direct your grinding sparks and always use a welding blanket if you have open flame near combustible materials.

M_P
 

NUTTSGT

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this makes me wonder... Where does one recharge a CO2 bottle? I'm thinking their local welding supply store? (airgas, westair, etc) If nothing else wouldn't a bottle filled with shielding gas work just as good as one filled with plain CO2? Would they even fill something other than a welding bottle though?

Simple question, simple answer. Look in your Yellow Pages under Fire Extinguishers. If there are none listed, contact your local fire dept and ask them if they can recommend somebody or provide a list of companies that service them. :thumbup:
 
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NUTTSGT

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There are several extinguishers on the market. If you purchase one from a big box store or dept store, more than likeyly it's going to have a plastic valve/nozzle. These are one use and toss it away. If you want a better extinguisher, make contact with a company that services them, look at post #15. Sometimes they have older "used" units for sale for less than a new one.

A 5lb dry chem is a decent size extinguisher. A 10lb'er sounds even better but both of them are about useless in the hands of panicking unexperinced person. A trained person may be able to put out more fire with a 2.5lb el cheapo unit.

Walk up to the fire till you feel the heat. . .

Pull the pin
Aim the nozzle
Squeeze the handle
Sweep across the base of the fire
 

NUTTSGT

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One other thing you can do before grabbing the extinguisher, if you have any doubts but want to try to make a save.

Pick up your phone, dial 911, when the operator askes what you emergency is, simply say "FIRE" and set the phone down. Do not hang it up, leave the line open. There will be help coming and on it's way in a brief moment.

Today's technology has brought us enhanced 911 to most areas, when you call populates on the 911 dispatcher's computer screen, it should tell her who you are and your adress, along with many many other things.

Now, by chance all you have is a cell phone, I'll offer this advice too as it may be slightly different. Contact your local LEO agency that runs the 911 service in your area. Ask them if they can put your cell number into their system, along with your name and address for emergency purposes. Just remember after doing this, you do not want to prank the 911 operators.
 

blackfocal

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One other thing you can do before grabbing the extinguisher, if you have any doubts but want to try to make a save.

Pick up your phone, dial 911, when the operator askes what you emergency is, simply say "FIRE" and set the phone down. Do not hang it up, leave the line open. There will be help coming and on it's way in a brief moment.

Today's technology has brought us enhanced 911 to most areas, when you call populates on the 911 dispatcher's computer screen, it should tell her who you are and your adress, along with many many other things.

Now, by chance all you have is a cell phone, I'll offer this advice too as it may be slightly different. Contact your local LEO agency that runs the 911 service in your area. Ask them if they can put your cell number into their system, along with your name and address for emergency purposes. Just remember after doing this, you do not want to prank the 911 operators.



or an easier thing to do is when the dispatcher comes on and say "911 whats the address of your emergency" give them your address tell them what is on fire and then you can go back to doing what you got to do.
 

Steroblan

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As a rural volunteer fireman, my recomendation is if you live in town, base your extinguisher needs on the average response time of the fire dept. If you live rural You are the fire dept for about 10 minutes which gives a fire time to destroy just about anything. Follow machine punks rule and keep the unit near each exit on all buildings. For the halon use. I used a 10lb. halon unit on a bathroom fire and had to run and get the Dry Chem ABC to get the job done. The halon is for electronics and clean rooms not automotive or structure fires. The CO2 units have been de-rated by the NFP and have been largely replaced in industry. Personally I keep a 20lb ABC in both shops and an H2O unit outside. Used units should be checked for the hydro date (I believe every 12 years) stamped near the neck as they will cost about the same to hydro as a new unit. 5lb. and under are throw aways unless you have a volume account.
 

TwoInch

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Have a minimum of one fire extinguisher by each exit door, so you can grab it on the way out. If the fire is more than 'just a trash can,' don't even try to put it out...just get all humans to safety and call 911. O

M_P

i agree with getting everyone out is first priority with anything over a "small trash can fire" but, i do not agree with not attempting to minimize damage, and even larger fires can be put out if caught in time, if you have, and you know how to utilize a fire extinguishers capabilities. i have put out a couple small fires, and one decent fire that was starting to spread quickly. i have also attempted, and failed to put out one fire, that ended going uncontrolled until fire dept arrived and coleman propane cylinders started blowing up. btw, none were caused by me in anyway or involved my property. i keep a throw away extinguisher in my car at all times, and have used several.

if you are prepared with enough extinguisher, you can save a lot of damage and unnecessary stuff from going down.

like said above, in rural you are on your own for a bit, but even in town, those couple minutes you stand there waiting, and then while they set up and get goin, your house, or shop will most likely be done for. maybe still standing, but nothing inside will be salvageable. my family had a garage fire when i was probably around 7, and we lived about a mile from fire dept, same street, and the structure was standing afterwards, but all contents were done.
 
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NUTTSGT

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or an easier thing to do is when the dispatcher comes on and say "911 whats the address of your emergency" give them your address tell them what is on fire and then you can go back to doing what you got to do.

Not everybody can remain calm and reply back to an operator. People have a tendency to scream, yell, mumble, talk hysterically, give wrong addresses, repeat things several times without giving information.

I'd rather people be able to give all the correct information, but there's a broad spectrum of people that tend to freak out when they see fire. My suggestion is for those that might be trying to put out a fire that could grow rapidly or be working on their pride & joy.

It's better to have someone create a 911 open line emergency and not need FD help (or any other help) than to need the help and not be able to call or to call too late.
 

akdiesel

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Lots of info to use. I would like to add to the suggestion of an extinguisher at every door but most shops only have one door. I have two man doors so that would only be two for a 2400 sf shop. Not nearly enough. Place on at every exit door as well as the far end corners and on at every bench location. The reason for the far corners is if you happen to be in that spot working and a fire breaks out you don't have to go to the other end to get the extinguisher or you have an extinguisher next to you to fight you way out if the fire is between you and the exit.
I have bought some small extinguishers in the past for training my family members. This should be done by people who know how to train in fire protection. As mentioned some people will panic in a fire situation and grab the wrong product to extinguish a fire and make things worse.
 

5lima30

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Besides my 10# ABC fire extinguisher which is mounted adjacent to the man door, I keep a large water spray bottle next to my welder along with a box of baking soda. I can also kill the power to my garage from the side of my house. For my detached 16x28 I feel that is adequate.
 

Steroblan

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Th reason the extinguisher should be only near the man doors is that when you retrieve it, you will have the option of exiting should there be too much smoke which in most automotive fires is not something to breath. The other reason is that you could become trapped by a quickly advancing fire or explosion if the door isn't in your path of egress while trying to get to a unit nearer the fire.
 

akdiesel

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Th reason the extinguisher should be only near the man doors is that when you retrieve it, you will have the option of exiting should there be too much smoke which in most automotive fires is not something to breath. The other reason is that you could become trapped by a quickly advancing fire or explosion if the door isn't in your path of egress while trying to get to a unit nearer the fire.

Extinguishers should be by the exit doors, no argument there, but I work in every area of my shop not just at the door and there are plenty of obstacles to have to get around to exit the shop, so as I said a fire extinguisher would be good to have at every work bench and in the far corners where you may be at if something were to happen instead of rushing to the door and then back to the fire to put it out.
There are NFPA guidelines and OSHA (yeah I said it) regulation regarding the locations of fire extinguishers in a business and in order to conduct business they have to follow the rules of placement.

And every shop or garage I have been in has the overhead door openers at the exit door or one of the exit doors so it seems a lot more easier to go out the man door then to wait for the overhead door to open to escape. By opening the overhead door it also allows for a lot more air to feed the fire, but there are certain reasons opening would be good idea, not for an exit.
 

mrpowderkeg

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Bismarck North Dakota
I've got two at the 25x25 shop I rent, and 4 at my house, all 5 lb units from the local fire safety store. One in my shop is a CO2 unit. At the home I have one in the garage, on in the kitchen, one down stair, and one in the master bath. All are located in a strategic easy to access place.
 

White 99

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I matched up a water extingusher with a large B C rated extinguisher filled with Purple K. B C extinguishers chemicals can be cleaned up after and are as effective as ABC ones. I bought a 20lb one used at a fire extinguisher place; should last longer than the cheap ones. I believe BC extinguishers are sodium bicarbionate or baking soda.
 

1967lemans

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Springfield, MO
When I built my welding cart, I threw an ABC extinguisher on it. Pretty easy came with a plastic holder so I riveted it on. On top of that I keep a bucket of sand, one of water, and turn the garden hose on EVERY TIME I do any hot work (ie welding, cutting, grinding etc)
 
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