
I've used a 5lb Kidde extinguisher to put out a fire on a neighbor's house. It did the job, but Kidde extinguishers are only budget disposable units. They've had a bad history of recalls with plastic valves. The metal valved models are supposedly better. Amerex, Ansul and Badger are the established quality brands I would recommend.Get a 5lb or 10lb ABC, base the size in part on your ability to comfortably operate the extinguisher.
ABC will work on ordinary combustibles (paper, wood etc) and flammable liquids. The C means it is non-conductive so safe to use on energized electrical equipment up to around 600v. Safe meaning safe for you, electrical equipment will not enjoy the experience.
Disposables are fine as the recharge and testing for rechargeable types can exceed the cost of buying a new disposable.
Amerex, Ansul, Kiddie are all established brands.
Personally I also like having an old school 2-1/2 gallon pressurized water can extinguisher around when I'm welding or doing other hot work. Water works well for most things that hot sparks or slag from welding might ignite. It is also far less messy than the dry chem ABC type and can be recharged in your shop after use as long as you have water and an air compressor.
I like your signage tarmy.Get good rechargeable gear. I have two shops…and keep one by each exit. My thought is I can decide to run or stop and fight. When I weld I keep one near me…a good rule of thumb is to do fire watch for a while after you are done welding. If you are going to be fighting fire on cars/boats get the ones with the proper chemicals. Certain ones will not screw up all the electronics when dischargEd.
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@mike93lx my comments below are not a dig on you, please don't be offended. The things you mentioned are very valid points and something is always better than nothing.Two is one, one is none.
One by each exit door and one near higher risk areas, like your welding table.
I'm on team disposable for a home shop, unless you have very easy access to someone that services them already
Indeed. I've said this here a few times before. If the extinguisher is always (and only) kept at the exit, you're always approaching the fire with extinguisher in hand and a clear exit to escape to at your back. Never squander your last opportunity to walk away....2. The door is the exit and the decision to fight or flight could well be the most important one you ever make
Personally on "team disposable" I would keep number 2 above strongly in the back of my mind.
All valid points, thanks.@mike93lx my comments below are not a dig on you, please don't be offended. The things you mentioned are very valid points and something is always better than nothing.
This first two lines are true statements. I don't (IMO) like the team disposable part, I have been in many homes when that team lost cause every extinguisher in the area failed on the occupant.
Any place that sells fire extinguishers will charge a "non disposable" extinguisher of any brand. I believe in a PWC (pressurized water can) for hot work, and having a 10# pound at each exit door, I also keep a 2.5# (I like Amerex) at the rear door in the house.
Two proven facts I have seen over the years..
1, A trained person can put out more fire with an extinguisher than an untrained person
2. The door is the exit and the decision to fight or flight could well be the most important one you ever make
Personally on "team disposable" I would keep number 2 above strongly in the back of my mind.
Its kidd-eh, right?Anyone here ever called Kiddie on the phone and learned the pronunciation is not what you would expect?
Can you tell... I've been through a house fire.Every closet has an extinguisher, flashlight... One in the utility room... One on the wall outside that utility room. Big *** one in the kitchen. Four in the garage... One at each corner. Two in the shed... One in the seed shed.
There were appx 10,000 employees at the Chemical Plant/Pharma that I worked at, almost 4000 in the plant and almost 6000 across the campus in Research.If you get the opportunity take a class on extinguisher use, many extinguisher servicing companies offer training for businesses and the public. A trained operator is far more effective, but for many the first time they need an extinguisher is also the first time they have used an extinguisher.
The First Alert, always on sale at Costco, claim a 10-12 year life expectancy. I'm more comfortable with 5-6 years. I have one at each door and a fire blanket on the workbench pegboard.All valid points, thanks.
Disposable doesn't mean buy it and forget about it. They should be replaced at some point
Did anyone cover what should be used in a vehicle?
Smoke byproducts travel further and faster and do at least as much damage as any powder coming from an ABC (from personal experience remediating both). And the salt spray coming off wet winter roads here is also just as corrosive, yet nobody says to stop salting roads.Definitely not the common ABC dry powder jobs if you plan on using the vehicle again, everything electrical or electronic will be coated with corrosion producing salt; all that is needed is slight condensation to start the corrosion. CO2 or a halogen based extinguisher would be my choice, halogen based units are frightfully expensive.
On the other hand, if your trapped in your vehicle and have an interior fire, you will have prayers of thanks for having a dry powder unit.

I believe you mean Halon...Disagree as to washing off the phosphate salt off electric/electronic components, it will not happen, but you have a good point as to smoke residue causing damage due to it's nasty composition. Again if you have a fire you need a fire extinguisher, the damage is already done, so even a CO2 or or halogen unit is unlikely to save your vehicle from expensive damage.
