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Fire proofing to satisfy building code

Daddydavesr86

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Versailles ky
Does anyone have any experience with having garage built and satisfying fire code?
Local inspector said the wall on the property line has to be fire proof.
How do you do this with a pole barn structure or metal building structure.
Inspector vaguly mention install fireproof drywall on the interior and exterior. I was so frustrated on the phone i just moved on to the next issue he had with my building plans.

Thank you
 
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WisJim

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Menomonie, WI
You probably need to ask the building inspector what is required. Did he specify a time rating for the fire wall? I had a similar situation as I wanted to build closer than allowed in the code, and the inspector told me that having non-combustible siding and 5/8 type X drywall inside would satisfy him. But he's probably not your inspector, just mine.
 

Skiff Builder

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For my house, built on pilings with shop/garage underneath, it was (2) 5/8 type X. Any penetrations were sealed with intumescent caulk or fire stopping collars.IMG_0692.JPG
 

billconner

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You probably need a "one hour fire rated exterior wall assembly". These are lab tested assemblies. I my case it was 5/8 type x gwb on both sides with fiberglass batts. Exterior was gwb over ply. I then installed siding. Your wall needs to be protected from a fire in your building or one across the property line. It will probably have to extend at adjacent walls to the normal set back.

This may help:

Normally your architect or building designer would catch and detail this. It may be worth an hours time from an architect. Look for a one person office.

PS I skipping masonry options. Would defeat pole barn.
 
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Daddydavesr86

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Versailles ky
I talk to the builder.
He said they typically dont deal with the fire ratings or have had too but will research it.

Im afraid im aggravating the inspector because he has been vague with anwsers but has tried to help me.
His go to is to refer to the code book.

In the inspectors defence its not his problem i dont know the code.
 

PCustoms

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What are you building?

Where (county, state etc) are you building it?

What code do you need to comply to?

How close to the lot line will it be?

How close to other structures?


If you are building 5 feet from the lot line and local code requires a non-combustible wall, I'd say abandon the pole barn idea and go with brick/block or a steel building.

If it is out in the open not near anything else you need to understand what code you are tasked with complying with and educate the inspector how it do any apply in your situation. A metal sheathed poor barn 50' from anything should not require any special fire proof construction as far as I know.
 

billconner

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He's within 5' of property line. Pretty common requirement and is in IRC which seems most commonly used in US. Masonry is certainly a option, it just seemed like project was too far along. Fire sprinklers are an option. Maybe if not too big and cold and there is a water supply a residential system would not be too expensive. (Should lower insurance premium.) Moving 5' off property lines - that includes projections like eaves - is the least expensive if construction has not begun. I've been through this on a small village lot where those two feet were worth several thousand to me.
 
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PCustoms

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to PCustoms question:

TABLE R302.1(1) EXTERIOR WALLS of the 2018 International Residential Code.
Sorry wasn't asking about the IRC. Asking where he stated he was within 5' of prop line
In the OP…
Because the inspector says so-
Where? Here is the OP:

Does anyone have any experience with having garage built and satisfying fire code?
Local inspector said the wall on the property line has to be fire proof.
How do you do this with a pole barn structure or metal building structure.
Inspector vaguly mention install fireproof drywall on the interior and exterior. I was so frustrated on the phone i just moved on to the next issue he had with my building plans.

Thank you
Bolded the only potential section, but this is on the line. Is it on the line, within 5' of the line, or 29' away and "on" the line?

If it is within the 5' setback and needs to be fire proof then I'd suggest a wood structure pole barn is wrong for the building.
 

billconner

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Daddydavesr86 has another thread about this project. It possible his posts there informed me.

Without knowing more, like status, other site constraints, contractual agreements, budget, availability of water for fire sprinklers, among others, it's hard to advise best solution.

PS: other thread https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/pole-barn-engineer-stamp.484370/ I don't know why it can't move to be 5' off line. May be clearance on other side.
 
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Daddydavesr86

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Versailles ky
I aplogize for not being specfic on my questions.
I do aprechate everyone's input.

The wall in question on my site plan i had my building 4 feet from edge of property line.
Inspector at first told me i only had to give 2 foot easment.
So i thought 4 foot was ok.
After summitting for permit inspector told me if im within 5 feet of property line that wall need to have fire proof drywall interior and exterior of building.
At first i thought move building over 1 foot problem solved.
But limited amount of space im working in plus this measurements includes roof overhang so now i need to move 2 feet to include over hang.

I will get add a picture of my site plan so you all can see tight space im working with.

I do appreciate everyone sharing there experence.
This is the first time im having building built and i had no idea the amount of detail went in to it.
At the end of the day i am trying to do things right its just learning curve.
 

rayra

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Escaped from Los Angeles
Step one is finding out what the actual code is.
Step two is finding out whether you are being demanded to satisfy the code or satisfy the inspector. They are not the same thing.
Step three is challenging any disparity between the two and getting a second opinion.
Step four is finding an affordable building solution to meet or exceed the demanded design requirement.
5/8" drywall on a wall of an adjoining garage is usual fire code, as is a solid core door.
It would be odd for the exterior wall of a detached pole barn nearest to your property line to have a stiffer requirement.
So I suggest you do some real research, NOT on the phone with your inspector.

And frankly, IMAO, if he is NOT giving you a specific code citation or a specific design to remediate the issue, then his vagueness is him enforcing his feelings, and not the damned code.
 

bwringer

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Indianapolis
Step one is finding out what the actual code is.
Step two is finding out whether you are being demanded to satisfy the code or satisfy the inspector. They are not the same thing.
Step three is challenging any disparity between the two and getting a second opinion.
Step four is finding an affordable building solution to meet or exceed the demanded design requirement.
5/8" drywall on a wall of an adjoining garage is usual fire code, as is a solid core door.
It would be odd for the exterior wall of a detached pole barn nearest to your property line to have a stiffer requirement.
So I suggest you do some real research, NOT on the phone with your inspector.

And frankly, IMAO, if he is NOT giving you a specific code citation or a specific design to remediate the issue, then his vagueness is him enforcing his feelings, and not the damned code.

Emphasis added. It's amazing how common it is to have "inspectors" who don't know diddly about their own codes, but there have been hundreds of threads on GJ about this issue all over the US.

Also, it appears the OP is using a builder for this. Why aren't they handling this?
 

billconner

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Thousand Islands NYS
I suspect the 2' is zoning. 5' is building code for fire safety. Adjoining the owners house is not same as being close to adjacent property. Separating an attached garage from a house is a prescriptive requirement for 5/8 type x on garage side, not a listed one hour wall assembly.

I've worked as a professional designer for almost 40 years and it is the designers' responsibility to know and comply with the code. It did take me 5 or so years to figure that out.

Dave, I'm thinking there is a touch of give on the eave. Three or so more readings of that section might tell me but something makes me think you can get away with just 5/8 gwb on the soffit - not much of a penalty for a foot back. Not sure.

Yes, building design is complicated. A few hours of an architect's or engineer's time might save you both money and time.
 

billconner

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There is a table right below that, in the Kentucky Residential Code, same as I referenced above, that further clarifies the 5'. Kentucky like many jurisdictions adopts with amendments the International Residential Code. It's notable that this code is primarily prescriptive rather than performance based, which allows conventional stick frame home building without a registered design professional sealing the drawings. It doesn't however really apply to post frame/pole barns, so the Building Code would apply, which is why, at least I, have to have sealed drawings. In this case, I don't think the residential code and building code differ in requirements for a 1 hr wall when within 5' of property line.
 

TRWham

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East Cobb County, Georgia
The only time I have run into this, it only involved the overhang of an accessory structure (outdoor kitchen with a Brazilian churrasqueira). We only needed to use noncombustible materials for the exposed soffit and fascia and concrete composite was sufficient. The roof was metal, but that was the plan regardless. A true fire-rated assembly is a different animal, but IRC 302 does seem to call for that under some circumstances.
 

billconner

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The table, which is a part of 302, says exterior walls less than 5' from the property line require "1 hour—tested in accordance with ASTM E119, UL 263 with exposure from both sides".

Move the wall, buy property and move the property line, fire sprinkler the building, or build a listed 1 hour wall. It wasn't too bad with conventional stick built for me, drywall and insulation to buy, but a bit more of a pita with post frame. BTW, the drywall has to be taped and mudded - just one pass (unless you want finished on inside). I wish I knew of better options. An architect or engineer might. Maybe your builder can call in a favor from an architect he's sent work to for a 15 minute consult.

Here's link to Ky Residential Code. Items 6 and 7 must be local to Dave's jurisdiction amendments. 7 does open the option of paying neighbor for a deed restriction.
 
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