fire rating

[mr_future]

I plan on having 5/8 " "X" drywall installed in my attached garage.

1 - My attic hatch/ladder is made of wood. We have blow in insulation, so it makes sense to keep the hatch in the garage. Is it worth the 500 bucks to buy a fire-rated hatch/ladder?

2 - I'll be cutting little holes in the ceiling above the flourescent light fixtures. Is there a way to do this without compromising the fire resistance of the ceiling?

 

[RivennHewn]

What type rating are you trying to maintain?
Is it called out in your plans/permit?

 

[spike99250]

Do you need it for code or just personal piece of mind?
As for the holes above the light fixtures(assuming for wires?) I would get some fire rated caulking for those unless the light will be covering it them I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[matt_i]

I think you could use a sheetmetal lower-cover for the plywood hatch. Along those lines, metal octagon boxes could be used as well. Both are directionally correct for fire-proofing/keeping fire from spreading.

 

[wssix99]

Is it worth the 500 bucks to buy a fire-rated hatch/ladder?

Yes - or you may want to hold off entirely and do some research first. Code may require a fire rated ladder or may not let you put in one at all. (In my area, these are forbidden - I can only have one 3 foot fire rated man door going in to the interior spaces of the house.)

If you put one in and are not code-compliant, you could have problems selling the house down the road.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Mineral wool insulation is pretty close to fireproof.

 

[mr_future]

This is for peace of mind. I am working without a permit. If someone doesn't buy our house because there is a fire rated attic access then they are too picky.


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[pattenp]

I covered my pull down attic ladder door with a piece of 5/8" drywall and trimmed it with the plastic drywall "J" edge trim.

 

[Marctrees]

WOWWWWW , WAYYY too much Rabbithole OC concern.

Just be done with it. Marc

 

[mr_future]

WOWWWWW , WAYYY too much Rabbithole OC concern.

Just be done with it. Marc

Recall that you are on a website called garagejournal.com . This should be an indicator that people will care a lot about small aspects of their garage.


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[mr_future]

I covered my pull down attic ladder door with a piece of 5/8" drywall and trimmed it with the plastic drywall "J" edge trim.

I might do this.


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[wssix99]

This is for peace of mind. I am working without a permit. If someone doesn't buy our house because there is a fire rated attic access then they are too picky.

It's not that you won't be able to sell your house. It's that you'll have to give up several thousand dollars at the closing table so your buyer can pay a contractor to come in and make it code compliant. The $300 you will save now by buying a cheap door (not to mention the safety risks you would be taking) could cost you many times that in the end.

^ Simply looking up the code in your area will clarify where you stand on this.

As you spend more time with home inspectors and property lawyers, you'll get a better appreciation for this. That interaction will also change you, physically and your appearance will forever be altered:

^ Experienced home seller.

I covered my pull down attic ladder door with a piece of 5/8" drywall and trimmed it with the plastic drywall "J" edge trim.

This doesn't have that a great impact on the fire rating. It would buy a few extra minutes over a wood surface but the blow-by around the seals is the big problem.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Is the ladder for access just to the garage attic, or is it also used to access the attic space over the rest of the house? I've seen where the fire rated drywall is installed up in the attic itself against the trusses, so that the garage attic is separated from the house attic. That way, the ceiling in your garage does not have to be the fire barrier.

 

[ripperd]

Is the ladder for access just to the garage attic, or is it also used to access the attic space over the rest of the house? I've seen where the fire rated drywall is installed up in the attic itself against the trusses, so that the garage attic is separated from the house attic. That way, the ceiling in your garage does not have to be the fire barrier.

This is how my house is.

 

[starquestMM]

Yep, either buy the door or make a rated bulkhead in the attic (which might be cheaper).

Technically it takes two layers of 5/8 type x to make a 1hr rated assembly. So one layer on a ceiling by itself wont cut it. For walls both sides count.

Almost every day of the week the paper has a story about somebody's house burning down. I special ordered rated access panels for my plumbing cleanouts and a 1hr man door. I sleep above my garage so it seemed like money well spent for me. Its funny how not a single home center around here actually stocks a 1hr door when they should have been in every house for a long time now.

 

[mr_future]

Thanks for all the replies. I will spend the extra money on a fire-rated hatch.

 

[theoldwizard1]

This is for peace of mind. I am working without a permit. If someone doesn't buy our house because there is a fire rated attic access then they are too picky.

Attached garages need a "fire rated wall" up to the roof between the 2 structures. Usually this is 2 layers of regular 1/2" drywall. The first layer must be mudded and taped but not finished. Joint must be staggered.

 

[strutaeng]

I feel "fire ratings" for typical residential construction are a joke.

Some cities require 5/8" Type X, which would give a 30 minute rating, IF the door was also rated, along with things like the attic hatch, and penetrations with proper firestopping. I mean, It's a good intent, but I don't think it is well executed. Are there a third party doing inspections during construction? Probably not. Perhaps some cities are better than others on this.

Hospitals and the such are much better at building and maintaining fire and smoke-rated walls.

I fear that houses go up in flames regardless of if 5/8" gypsum board is in garages. I have personally seen several complete losses from this.

OP: If you want peace of mind, I would do 2 layers of 5/8" gypsum board and also install a 1 hour rated door. Do some research on firestopping at penetrations.

 

[strutaeng]

Yep, either buy the door or make a rated bulkhead in the attic (which might be cheaper).

Technically it takes two layers of 5/8 type x to make a 1hr rated assembly. So one layer on a ceiling by itself wont cut it. For walls both sides count.

Almost every day of the week the paper has a story about somebody's house burning down. I special ordered rated access panels for my plumbing cleanouts and a 1hr man door. I sleep above my garage so it seemed like money well spent for me. Its funny how not a single home center around here actually stocks a 1hr door when they should have been in every house for a long time now.

I think you are very wise in your decision. I think insurance companies should make this inspection and offer a deep discount on your policy. Rates are insanely high in my area.

 

[wssix99]

I'm shocked at this thread. It stands in stark contrast to the others on this site where recommendations are given to cover garages in OSB and then paint it with Napalm.

 

[ard]

It's not that you won't be able to sell your house. It's that you'll have to give up several thousand dollars at the closing table so your buyer can pay a contractor to come in and make it code compliant. The $300 you will save now by buying a cheap door (not to mention the safety risks you would be taking) could cost you many times that in the end.

^ Simply looking up the code in your area will clarify where you stand on this.

As you spend more time with home inspectors and property lawyers, you'll get a better appreciation for this. That interaction will also change you, physically and your appearance will forever be altered:


This doesn't have that a great impact on the fire rating. It would buy a few extra minutes over a wood surface but the blow-by around the seals is the big problem.

SPOT ON advice.

Each week there is a new thread from someone selling a home and a home inspector (and the other realtor) is bending them over for $300, $500, $2500.

Many states (all?) will require you to say if any work was done without a permit - you lie and you can be liable.... Tell the truth and you hand them ammo. I'm not saying get permits for everything, but make sure when their inspector looks he only finds BBs.

 

[raffaelli]

Why do you need a rating in the attic? Typical 1 hour rating is between the garage and the house.

BTW, you don't get a free reign on what you 'think' is a rated assembly. One layer of 5/8 doesn't get you anything other than one layer of 5/8. You need to determine the required rating then apply either the UL approved or USG approved assemblies.

 

[PAToyota]

This is for peace of mind. I am working without a permit. If someone doesn't buy our house because there is a fire rated attic access then they are too picky.

The two issues are: 1) that if there is a fire while you own the house, your insurance will likely deny the claim because modifications made by you were not up to code and 2) if there is a fire after you’ve sold the house, you can be sued because modifications made by you were not up to code.