Fireplace in the garage? Other heating ideas??

[grabeb]

I built a detached garage this past year and I keep trying to figure out how to best heat it without costing a small fortune. 26'x32' with 12' sidewalls and peaked interior roofline with scissor trusses, so about 19' to peak inside at bottom of bottom cord of truss.

I currently have a wall mounted electric heater, I think it's a 5000btu/7000btu unit, but I can't exactly recall now. It does a decent job of heating the garage to comfortable levels, but isn't exactly cheap to run. I have a gas line in old garage behind this garage and I plan to eventually tie them together, but that's a year down the road and until then it'd be very inconvenient to get that gas line to new garage. So that is on hold, but the plan is to install a fairly new 95% efficient gas furnace up in my loft once this happens. A friend will basically give it to me to get it out of his way.

So that leaves me with trying to figure out how best to keep the garage above freezing through this winter and maybe others as well. I have always wanted several options available so I can pick and choose based on cost, etc... I do some woodworking so I always have a supply of scrap wood and I have several mature trees, so I always have a stack of firewood, but I don't want to have to go cut or always buy firewood so I'm not crazy about some major wood burning unit. I also don't need to get the space up to 75 or 100* inside. I find that if I'm out there working 60-65 is comfortable, if standing around of course that changes.

Are there some smaller wood burning units that might do a decent job? Again, it wouldn't be my only option and only used when I'm out there or plan to be out there. I'm not 100% crazy about wood burning in garage as I don't think insurance companies love them in garages.

 

[jack stand]

If you can find a 2nd hand wood stove, just running a metal stove pipe (chimney) can quickly cost $500.
If this is in your budget it'll do a nice job heating it and you'll learn how to feed it and throttle it back for a reasonable temperature for working with a surprisingly small amount of wood.

 

[grabeb]

If you can find a 2nd hand wood stove, just running a metal stove pipe (chimney) can quickly cost $500.
If this is in your budget it'll do a nice job heating it and you'll learn how to feed it and throttle it back for a reasonable temperature for working with a surprisingly small amount of wood.

That's the problem, the cost I can deal with, but I don't want to spend it and it doesn't do much of anything. I really feel with such a high peak, I'll get lots of residual heat gain from the stove pipe making the heating much more efficient. I just don't know if a railroad/potbelly is a good potential fit or if I'd need something bigger. I don't really want to lose lots of floor space.

 

[jack stand]

There's no free ride heating a shop. Either give up a little floor space and burn wood or buy your heat from the utility and burn it in a more compact wall or ceiling unit.
It sounds like you just need to wait until the gas line work is feasible. Burning wood is almost a lifestyle and for those who've never have, it can be dangerous. Your stove, chimney and clearances as well as operation are not a casual notion.

 

[grabeb]

There's no free ride heating a shop. Either give up a little floor space and burn wood or buy your heat from the utility and burn it in a more compact wall or ceiling unit.
It sounds like you just need to wait until the gas line work is feasible. Burning wood is almost a lifestyle and for those who've never have, it can be dangerous. Your stove, chimney and clearances as well as operation are not a casual notion.

I get that 100%. I was tempted to go talk to a local fireplace shop to see their input as well. I do have a very small railroad stove at a cabin I have at the lake....it's actually an old coal unit that we burn wood in, but it's very small. Cabin isn't much more than a glorified shed, but it does the job! My neighbor burns wood exclusively in his shop and he's a mason, so if I were to get fancy, he'd do that work....but I don't plan on that.

I also realize due to him how much of a life style it is for some and my cousin is the same way. They both tell me how they go cut and split wood several times during the winter or how they have to go find and buy it. I always joke, I just hit a button on my houses gas fireplace, furnace or the garage heater. I don't see how burning wood 24/7 is really much cheaper, they just really like that lifestyle I believe.

For me, I don't want to have to go cut wood, store more than I have, haul it or buy it. I want to use what I have and call it a day. Maybe that's why I'm hesitant and you might be right, waiting might be the best option, but figured I'd explore my options. The issue is I have a large 4 post lift in the garage, so that takes a large footprint, even though it gives me a place for another car. I guess I'll see if I can find a suitable option for it or just scrap the idea.

Thanks for the input!

 

[dave*99]

High ceiling. Did you put some ceiling fans in to blow heat down?
If you are looking for a 1 year heating solution, use a kerosene salamander.

 

[grabeb]

High ceiling. Did you put some ceiling fans in to blow heat down?
If you are looking for a 1 year heating solution, use a kerosene salamander.

I did do that and they help a ton! I let it warm up a bit, then start kicking the air down.

I had one of those several years ago and sold it. I actually thought about a wall mounted(can use free standing as well) dual fuel (propane/nat gas) heater as I figure I could run off 20lb bottles until I got the gas line then switch it to natural gas, but can't use that and a furnace. Hmmm....

I also have a few propane heaters for camping that are rated for indoor use, but those don't feel real safe for the simple fact someone better be right there the entire time I feel. I think the same of the kerosene. I'm not real worried about running out of oxygen as it is a garage and that darn door is bound to be opened several times a day!

 

[BillK]

If this is just a stop gap measure for a year or so till you run the gas line then I would say just keep using the electric heat. I would bet you would spend a minimum of $600 - $700 to get up and running with wood. Propane will be even more. That will probably pay your electric bill for half a year ? Where are you located and how cold does it get ?

Also it might actually cost you less if you keep the heat on 24/7 at a lower temp and just turn it up when you need to use the garage. I have a 5000 btu electric in my attached garage and maybe run it a couple of evenings each week and most of the day on Saturday and I really don't notice a whole lot of difference in the electric bill.

 

[dave*99]

I have this in my garage. On a 36' flexible hose that plugs into the quick disconnect that fits my NG grill. It works great. 30,000 btu.
How far away is your gas line? Cost $200.

 

[grabeb]

If this is just a stop gap measure for a year or so till you run the gas line then I would say just keep using the electric heat. I would bet you would spend a minimum of $600 - $700 to get up and running with wood. Propane will be even more. That will probably pay your electric bill for half a year ? Where are you located and how cold does it get ?

Also it might actually cost you less if you keep the heat on 24/7 at a lower temp and just turn it up when you need to use the garage. I have a 5000 btu electric in my attached garage and maybe run it a couple of evenings each week and most of the day on Saturday and I really don't notice a whole lot of difference in the electric bill.

As for being stop gap, can't honestly answer that. Reason being I want options and until I figure them out, not sure what I'm doing. Kind of in a brainstorm phase of the build at this point.

Gas is typically cheap, but after that freeze a few years ago that hit Texas really hard gas is being surcharge horribly and I really worry they'll pull that **** again and try to charge ungodly rates. My gas company told me we wouldn't be affected because they negotiate rates 6-12months in advance, yet we are now getting a $10-20+ surcharge per month for the next 5yrs on our gas bill to cover that 1 week. So, I'm paying a % more based on current usage for gas I used a year ago and I will for the next 5yrs. So if I double my gas usage I'll be paying them even more. That's a hard pill for me to swallow. If you figure $15 average per month x 12 months x 5 years, that's $900. That would pay for the wood setup(or other options). And who's to say that won't be every year ordeal to where I get hit eventually with $100 'fine' for heating my house.

Electric heat is efficient but expensive, but I'm looking into adding solar if I can get an electrician friend to work with me on splitting his knowledge and ability to pull the permits along with my labor to help each other add a solar setup to our houses. My garage panel is already setup for that. If I add solar, there's most likely my solution! If not electric heat is seeming to be a bit stupid expensive and if grid goes down, I'm out of luck. I think barely running the electric last year, just enough to keep above freezing and maybe bring up to temps when out there was about $100+ per month. It's better insulated this year and currently it's on separate meter from house at this point, so I can easily tell my heating cost. Electricity is obviously going to keep going up with more and more demand as natural gas is phased out and if they keep adding more and more electric cars, tools, etc....

Then add in I want to connect the two structures, old smaller garage to my big garage. Plan at this stage is a man cave/ home office in the old garage. If I do that I'll likely add a pellet stove..... had one in previous house and loved it. I love and want the ambiance and smell of a wood fire, but I don't want all the work that goes with that 'lifestyle'. I think it would heat most everything without much effort. Small garage is 7ftish ceiling and about 15x18 in size, so a smaller pellet stove will keep that room nice and toasty and if I leave the door open, it'll draft into bigger garage.

Sooo.....will it be a stop gap, maybe somewhat, but I don't think I'd ever pull it out totally IF I put one in, in a location that isn't a hinderance. I also think that's part of my hold up is I don't want to cut the roof up IF I were to realize I am not using it and want the floor space. I guess my thought is I built the garage to work on projects and IF I can keep a fairly steady supply of free wood coming in the door, then once paid for the cost to heat is negligible. Now I'm not on a fixed, nor incredibly tight budget, but I don't like throwing money away either. I currently pay about $200-300 per month year round for electric and about $100-200 for gas. I'm just not ready to double that or even increase by a 1/3 if I can do something about.

 

[grabeb]

Where are you located and how cold does it get ?

I'm in South Central Kansas, Wichita, to be exact. Well, this might be one of the coldest Decembers that I remember but it's currently -1 outside at almost noon. It's been known to get to negative teens at times. Our high today is slated for 6* and we aren't expected to get above freezing until Sunday. So....while not as bad as some places, it's too darn cold for me. Generally, I'd say average temps in winter are highs in the 30's with lows in the teen to low 20's, with the occasional dip into the negatives as we are now.

 

[grabeb]

I have this in my garage. On a 36' flexible hose that plugs into the quick disconnect that fits my NG grill. It works great. 30,000 btu.
How far away is your gas line? Cost $200.

I have seriously been looking at those. They have them in dual fuel and thus I thought run off propane tanks until I get the gas line out there. I think the one I've been eyeing is closer to $300, but still not bad. My fear is if I go with the 95% efficient furnace this would be a total stop gap and I don't know how long it would run on a 20lb bottle of propane.

 

[imagineer]

I heat a 24' x 32' pole barn with a Vogelzang Boxwood stove tucked into a corner. To improve the efficiency, I built what I call a coaxial heat exchanger on the flue pipe. Basically, it's a section of 8" duct with the 6" duct inside. There is a aluminum fin in the space between the 6" and 8" ducts. I have a repurposed furnace fan pumping air into the top of the 8" section and the heated air ejects out the bottom. I did build the water box shown on the drawing, but I don't use it.

 

[dave*99]

I have seriously been looking at those. They have them in dual fuel and thus I thought run off propane tanks until I get the gas line out there. I think the one I've been eyeing is closer to $300, but still not bad. My fear is if I go with the 95% efficient furnace this would be a total stop gap and I don't know how long it would run on a 20lb bottle of propane.

They do run a bit more than $200 usually. I caught a sale at tractor supply for $199 and they offered a free fan that fits in the back of the unit. It has a pilot light and a safety cutoff system. Cheap money and it works great. I will hang it on the wall at some point.

 

[sparky 1971]

I had to take the wood stove out of my garage or find another insurance company. They did tell me that a pellet stove would be acceptable, but I don't want to spend the money, and I doubt it would do much for my drafty concrete block shop with no insulation. I use a 180/220K BTU torpedo to warm it up and a 80K BTU to keep it warm. Days like today, where the high was -10 with -35 wind chill, I doubt the big heater would shut off for very long before firing up again. Luckily, I don't have any reason to be out there other than to grab parts for work.

 

[jblnut]

I was going to suggest a LP torpedo style heater as well. You gotta crack a window or something as they stink and eat up oxygen just like that non vented wall heater posted above. They also toss every bit of moisture in the LP into your heated space so take that into consideration......

Once upon a time I built an artsy fartsy rocket stove out of a bunch of scrap square tubing and it heated a 24x36 garage/shop amazingly well. It was vented out the wall with a piece of 3-1/2" used oil well pipe going though the wall inside an 8" piece of used oil well pipe. There was some fine expanded metal to keep birds and bugs out while letting fresh air inside. It used something dumb like a small pail of wood a day to keep it all going.

 

[dave*99]

I was going to suggest a LP torpedo style heater as well. You gotta crack a window or something as they stink and eat up oxygen just like that non vented wall heater posted above. They also toss every bit of moisture in the LP into your heated space so take that into consideration......

Once upon a time I built an artsy fartsy rocket stove out of a bunch of scrap square tubing and it heated a 24x36 garage/shop amazingly well. It was vented out the wall with a piece of 3-1/2" used oil well pipe going though the wall inside an 8" piece of used oil well pipe. There was some fine expanded metal to keep birds and bugs out while letting fresh air inside. It used something dumb like a small pail of wood a day to keep it all going.

The non-vented wall heater above (on NG) has zero odor. As for eating up oxygen and generating moisture - this impact depends on air leakage in the room. At the moment, my garage side walls are not insulated or drywalled. There are several flood vents in the garage walls and they leak quite a bit of air.
So I my application, I see no effect from moisture or oxygen depletion.
I suspect in a tight room, this may be an issue. I have prewired and stubbed out a NG line for a vented unit heater. I had one on my last house.

 

[jblnut]

The non-vented wall heater above (on NG) has zero odor. As for eating up oxygen and generating moisture - this impact depends on air leakage in the room. At the moment, my garage side walls are not insulated or drywalled. There are several flood vents in the garage walls and they leak quite a bit of air.
So I my application, I see no effect from moisture or oxygen depletion.
I suspect in a tight room, this may be an issue. I have prewired and stubbed out a NG line for a vented unit heater. I had one on my last house.

In a leaky drafty space one of those wall heaters would be perfect !! So you're saying that that style heater has no odor or just no odor when running on NG ? I have one in the shed I keep my skid loader in and it stinks to high heaven in there. Similar to how my fish house smells when the sunflower heater is going for a while. It's also so wet I've had to put a dehumidifier in there lol. Dehumidifier uses a bit of power but it generates heat in the process so it's not so bad. That room is built quite tight though so maybe that's why it stinks ? Opening the garage door cools it off to almost outside temp so there is a fair bit of air exchange before I go in there and it is strictly a parking shed so I have no worries about working in there for a while getting sick ....

 

[grabeb]

The non-vented wall heater above (on NG) has zero odor. As for eating up oxygen and generating moisture - this impact depends on air leakage in the room. At the moment, my garage side walls are not insulated or drywalled. There are several flood vents in the garage walls and they leak quite a bit of air.
So I my application, I see no effect from moisture or oxygen depletion.
I suspect in a tight room, this may be an issue. I have prewired and stubbed out a NG line for a vented unit heater. I had one on my last house.

I'm no expert on the matter, other than having a vent free fireplace in my house and having read up on that and talking to others that have used them.

For what it's worth, my house is a 1915 Craftsman Bungalow and though I've done a lot to seal it up and add better insulation, it'll always be a battle to stop drafts, which isn't really wanted due to the nature of the structure. That being said I don't see the vent free being an issue. In fact one of the biggest warnings I got from the fireplace store I bought it from was it'd add moisture. Well, 107yr old house with 1x4(6) subfloor, wood flooring throughout, lathe and plaster walls, solid wood trim with built in cabinets everywhere.....I need moisture. I have a whole house humidifier which is a constant battle to keep house from drying out and having woodwork shrink.

Move to the garage and I see the same thing. Yes, it's modern construction and thus much tighter than my house, it's a garage with a wall(garage door) that moves up and down several times a day allowing fresh air in. In my case, I didn't sheetrock, hope I don't regret that just for the insulating factor. I did install insulation in the walls, though it's R11 vs the R13 we call for in this area. That was due a killer deal from a neighbor who had a bunch to unload for next to nothing. My ceiling is R30, which is what is dictated here. I am covering the bottom 4' of walls with pole barn tin, same with the ceiling inside. The rest of the walls are being done in old cedar fencing, so those won't be hurt 1 bit by moisture if I went with some sort of vent free unit.

I'm going to add my wall heater on the lower 5000watt(I believe) setting has been running since last night and it's only mid 30's in my garage. I don't have small portion of walls or about 10ft of ceiling insulated yet. But that obviously won't cut it much on these cold cold days. Getting ready to call the solar company to see their input.

 

[dave*99]

In a leaky drafty space one of those wall heaters would be perfect !! So you're saying that that style heater has no odor or just no odor when running on NG ? I have one in the shed I keep my skid loader in and it stinks to high heaven in there. Similar to how my fish house smells when the sunflower heater is going for a while. It's also so wet I've had to put a dehumidifier in there lol. Dehumidifier uses a bit of power but it generates heat in the process so it's not so bad. That room is built quite tight though so maybe that's why it stinks ? Opening the garage door cools it off to almost outside temp so there is a fair bit of air exchange before I go in there and it is strictly a parking shed so I have no worries about working in there for a while getting sick ....

I called out the NG when talking about odor because I have NG and there is no odor at all. You specifically mentioned LP, so I made the distinction that I use NG.

In my old house I ran a LP forcer air salamander type when finishing the garage. There were no offensive smells. Perhaps your heater is not burning correctly?

Separately, I do have a 40,000 btu fire table on LP I run in an enclosed patio. I can tell something is running in there odor wise, but nothing offensive at all. Trust me, my wife would know if it stunk.

FWIF, I don't have a leaky drafty place. In fact, quite the opposite. The garage doors are insulated, the garage is new construction with 30lb felt under the siding. The ceiling is fully insulated and drywalled with a finished room above it.

There is a limited amount of air exchange through the flood vents- - they have some slits for their mechanisms. So I get some airflow there. There is a CO detector in the garage and it never alarms. I have read many posts over the years mentioning moisture from unvented heaters. Some posts would lead me to think it would damn near rain in the garage. I'm not seeing it.
I don't heat continuously. I might go 2 to 3 days in a row working out there. So maybe it would be worse if I ran it more.

Here is what an 8x16 flood vent looks like. The they don't seal air great - but they are not barn doors.

 

[Daveyclimber]

Be aware that some homeowners policies will not cover a wood stove in a garage or shop.

 

[Wheelingit]

Get a Mr. Heater. For about $100.00 for the setup. It can run you out of the building on high. I love mine.

 

[grabeb]

Be aware that some homeowners policies will not cover a wood stove in a garage or shop.

And I think mine is actually one of those. That's why I'm really hesitant to look at that route, but have to run options.

 

[grabeb]

Get a Mr. Heater. For about $100.00 for the setup. It can run you out of the building on high. I love mine.

I borrowed one of those last year and might borrow again for this year. It was actually a two head.

My question if anyone can answer is, would those use as much propane as one of the other wall mountable units? More, less, the same per BTU?

 

[dave*99]

I borrowed one of those last year and might borrow again for this year. It was actually a two head.

My question if anyone can answer is, would those use as much propane as one of the other wall mountable units? More, less, the same per BTU?

The radiant heater uses less fuel. It heats people, not air. So if you are nearby, you are warm. If it's on the other side of the car..... not so warm.

 

[grabeb]

The radiant heater uses less fuel. It heats people, not air. So if you are nearby, you are warm. If it's on the other side of the car..... not so warm.

I'm thinking the one I looked at was not the radiant variety, but I know they have both.

 

[dave*99]

I meant the radiant heater pictured in post 24 uses less fuel. They do make wall mounted radiant heaters.
But your question back to your question Heaters are rated in btu/hour. So for the same btu size heater, they should use the same amount of fuel. Radiant or convection.

 

[Youngandfree]

In a leaky drafty space one of those wall heaters would be perfect !! So you're saying that that style heater has no odor or just no odor when running on NG ? I have one in the shed I keep my skid loader in and it stinks to high heaven in there. Similar to how my fish house smells when the sunflower heater is going for a while. It's also so wet I've had to put a dehumidifier in there lol. Dehumidifier uses a bit of power but it generates heat in the process so it's not so bad. That room is built quite tight though so maybe that's why it stinks ? Opening the garage door cools it off to almost outside temp so there is a fair bit of air exchange before I go in there and it is strictly a parking shed so I have no worries about working in there for a while getting sick ....

I've got same basic wall heater on propane in my basement. Doesn't smell any different than my propane logs upstairs.

 

[Firebrick43]

If you want a small and very efficient stove, get a jotul 602. They cost more up front but are superior to anything on the market in the small stoves.

Also note, chimney construction and draft is very important to the safe and efficient design of a stove. Avoid going thru a side wall. The best place for a chimney is as close to the peak as possible, not in a corner.

Also chimney heat exchangers can be dangerous on modern efficent EPA stoves. They burn the smoke and achieve in the 70 plus percent range compared to older stoves getting 40-50 percent. As such they do not respond well to heat exchangers on the flue and it cools it to much causing creosote buildup and draft inversion, both are serious safety concerns, especially creosote buildup that can cause chimney fires.

 

[gmcgeo]

I love it, keep away from heat and sparks..... and they make this for Propane tanks. SMH.

I Do not trust most to fill my propane tank, since they fill it either by running it until OPD stops it. and or using bleeder.

Take it home, start it up; then pressure relief goes off because over filled.

Anyway, not starting something. Just blows my mind.
Just had an explosion near my house with a pressure relief overfill issues on BBQ tank and radiant heater. Garage was burned down, Thank goodness it was detached and the fire department was able to get it under control before it spread to the house

 

[grabeb]

I love it, keep away from heat and sparks..... and they make this for Propane tanks. SMH.

I Do not trust most to fill my propane tank, since they fill it either by running it until OPD stops it. and or using bleeder.

Take it home, start it up; then pressure relief goes off because over filled.

Anyway, not starting something. Just blows my mind.
Just had an explosion near my house with a pressure relief overfill issues on BBQ tank and radiant heater. Garage was burned down, Thank goodness it was detached and the fire department was able to get it under control before it spread to the house

Thanks for the safety tip. I generally do try to get them filled at a place that fills vs the local grocery or box store as you get more for $$, but you are correct in their methods. Haven't had that issue yet, but worth noting! Maybe it's not worth $3 extra in propane, maybe the places that do propane exchanges are the better route! hmmm

 

[gmcgeo]

Thanks for the safety tip. I generally do try to get them filled at a place that fills vs the local grocery or box store as you get more for $$, but you are correct in their methods. Haven't had that issue yet, but worth noting! Maybe it's not worth $3 extra in propane, maybe the places that do propane exchanges are the better route! hmmm

There a places around that have the correct trained employees that will fill by weight. But its view and far between anymore. If they fill it and let it stop with the OPD then i refuse the tank.

 

[Firebrick43]

I know a place that fills to the OPD and has a scale on the filling station. Crazy thing is they had old grill bottles there that they were filling/exchanging that had the old style non opd valve. I pointed it out and the employee just gave a blank look.

OPD have been law for 15 plus years now?????

 

[gmcgeo]

I know a place that fills to the OPD and has a scale on the filling station. Crazy thing is they had old grill bottles there that they were filling/exchanging that had the old style non opd valve. I pointed it out and the employee just gave a blank look.

OPD have been law for 15 plus years now?????

Yeah, i seen that too. I have trained many many people on pumping stations. including building them. Problem is some do not take it serious and they think nothing bad can happen.

 

[imagineer]

I heat a 24' x 32' pole barn with a Vogelzang Boxwood stove tucked into a corner. To improve the efficiency, I built what I call a coaxial heat exchanger on the flue pipe. Basically, it's a section of 8" duct with the 6" duct inside. There is a aluminum fin in the space between the 6" and 8" ducts. I have a repurposed furnace fan pumping air into the top of the 8" section and the heated air ejects out the bottom. I did build the water box shown on the drawing, but I don't use it.

if anyone was questioning being able to heat an uninsulated pole barn with a wood stove in one corner...
Granted, it only got into the low 50's inside, but it was far better than the single digits outside.

 

[Jackfre]

For a vented direct vent, which you want, a Rinnai EX38 (12-36kbtu) will do it very nicely. Simple install and the vent is included in the box, simple install you can do yourself in about 3 hrs. For a vent free the Rinnai 824 (8-22kbtu) is the best of the vent frees. Both are at the tip of the price line in their category, but you will be happy with both.

 

[HoosierBuddy]

This thread is a few years old now. I'd be interested in what Grebab decided.

In reading through it this morning I just can't get over the thought that the cheapest way to be comfortable in a garage is Carhardtts.

Love my NG heated garage....but it costs real money to buy the right equipment. It cost real money to run the gas line. It costs real money for the NG bill. I lived for decades with my only garage being 2 bays in one side of an unheated barn. Ideal? No. But it didn't hit my monthly energy bill. When I finally saved enough to build my garage in 2006, I didn't skimp on the insulation or the heating system....but that monthly bill in the winter sometimes causes my wife to raise her eyebrows.

 

[fitter30]

I borrowed one of those last year and might borrow again for this year. It was actually a two head.

My question if anyone can answer is, would those use as much propane as one of the other wall mountable units? More, less, the same per BTU?

There is 91500 btu per gallon of lp. 100 lb tank holds 18.9 gallons of lp. Lp tanks have to be sized by vaporization rate and btu. At 20° f 167k btu at 0° 113k btu 100 lb tank.

 

[nadogail]

Wood Stoves, or any other heating device that uses combustion, and inflammable liquids or vapors are mutually incompatible.

I heat my garage and workshop’s with electric heat. I also have a bunch of Solar Panels.

 

[dave*99]

Wood Stoves, or any other heating device that uses combustion, and inflammable liquids or vapors are mutually incompatible.

I heat my garage and workshop’s with electric heat. I also have a bunch of Solar Panels.

I understand the sentiment of your comment, but you have a vastly different climate than we have in the Northeast. Here, we burn stuff and try not to blow ourselves up.