First anvil

[Fordman7795]

Stopped by a midweek farm estate sale yesterday and was able to grab my first anvil. I was #34 going in and #4 purchased a nice complete anvil for $75 as soon as he walked in. This was still around when I finally made it in and the person running the sale was shocked i wanted it "really you want that? umm ok i dont know, 5 bucks?" Works for me.







So obviously it is broken. It is also cast iron with no maker marks. Weighs exactly 160lbs. I want to fix it and use it. How would you go about fixing it? I was thinking about using some grade 8 bolt shafts and pinning it then welding it back on.

 

[thebeekeeper1]

You can't fix it, but it's worth more than that for scrap, or you can use it to beat on. Worth the money, but definitely not fixable.

 

[gte718p]

Fixing it is going to be difficult if not impossible. I'll let the more seasoned welders jump in, but welding cast is difficult. Especially something you are planning on beating on.

If the surface is still flat and true it is still an incredibly useful thing to have laying around.

At 160 lb its worth what you paid scrap so your off to a good start.

 

[FJ 432]

Damn nice find for $5. For discussion sake did it break because it was dropped, I wonder?

Damn poachers. Killing for the sake of the horn...

 

[Heavymetalmechanic]

Damn nice find for $5. For discussion sake did it break because it was dropped, I wonder?

Damn poachers. Killing for the sake of the horn...

HaHa!

 

[sgrammel]

big *** tube of JB weld should do it

 

[Filson]

Can you show a good pic of the actual break? Looks pretty "clean" to me.

 

[BFBOB]

If it were mine, I'd go the pin and weld route. But I expect the more expert voices are right, and it wouldn't hold with more than the very lightest tapping.

you mentioned bolts, and that made me think of tapping and threading the bolts in one half, say two threaded into the body and two threaded into the horn, clearance holes for the unthreaded part. Still probably wouldnt hold. How about heating the whole thing up to brazing temperature and brazing the pins in? Then, as it cools, weld the heck out of it, pack in fiberglass to let it cool for a week. Somewhere on Youtube there's a video of replacing the striking face of a large anvil by forge-welding it. Quite impressive what it takes to get that much heat in one place. Maybe someone will chime in with a link; I'm pretty sure GJ is where I saw it.

(still probably won't hold, but I'd try it.)

It's a useful tool even without the horn.

Hmmm... on second look, is it just my imagination, or has there already been a feeble attempt to weld the horn back on?

 

[The Copilot]

removed

 

[Kingcreek]

I'd guess it was broken first and then someone attempted to weld it- unsuccessfully.

 

[Zeke]

No name and broken, it was never much. Even in it's present condition it would ring when struck. I'll bet it will be more of a thud. I wouldn't take that out to the anvil shooting site. Probably become lethal shrapnel.

 

[Bobhdus]

If your serious about welding, I would grind a big groove around the break on both pieces so the root is at least 1/2-3/4" thick, tack weld it, cook it in a forge or an oven at 400-450 for at least a couple of hours. Then weld it with NiRod99. Clean flux amd **** off welds between passes and grind the final weld or cap to flush. ITS ALREADY BROKE. You have nothing to lose other than a little time and welding rod. It makes for a good learning experience.

P.S. You shouldn't be banging on the horn that hard anyways. The welds will be fine as long as the bevel is wide (for more weld to surface contact), has a U groove profile (avoid a V groove on CI).

 

[Fordman7795]

Hmmm... on second look, is it just my imagination, or has there already been a feeble attempt to weld the horn back on?

Yes. Just a goober or two and im sure it was rod not designed for cast

 

[Fordman7795]

I don't see any signs of a hardened steel face plate on this anvil. Looks like it could be a fully cast ASO (anvil shaped object) with the horn cut off with a torch. Not something I'd spend much money trying to fix.

Its definitely a clean break and not torched off. I wont put much money into it (rod, beer, time). For what i do, itll function as is but for the challenge im gonna try to put it back together. I have a good buddy with more welding equipment than me on board for the surgery.

 

[premierplayer]

I'd hit that.
$5 me thinks deserves a "you ****".

 

[Exceller8]

Use it as is and beat the hell out of it!

 

[dewalt378g]

Horn or not for a beater anvil I would have bought that too...I think it was a good buy. I second the missing hardened plate, looks like all cast. If you intend to do any smithing it would be great for upending, staking, and cutting without putting wear and tear on your good anvil. Will also add some good traction for the pickup in the winter

 

[SweetD]

i'd hit that.
$5 me thinks deserves a "you ****".

lol +1~!

 

[Zeke]

The other give-away that this never was a serious blacksmithing anvil is the absence a hardie hole and a pritchel hole in the top near the heel. My guess would be that this is a cast iron ASO made in the last couple of decades.

Damn, I was thinking that as I posted and had a 'senior moment'. Yep, all serious anvils have at least one of those holes.

 

[AndyA]

Drill and tap the broken end of the horn, then mount it on another stand.

If it's cast iron, I'd expect more cracks and chips when you start using it.

Beat on it, but keep looking for a good anvil.

 

[thebeekeeper1]

Use it as is and beat the hell out of it!

I'd don't know I'd get carried away--it might break.

 

[rick carpenter]

If you need a horn, grind one from the unbroken end. Sloooooowly...

 

[goofy3392]

Weld it back on. Welding cast iron isn't some secret voodoo. You need to pre heat it, use correct filler and then let it slow cool. We do it frequently at my work. As mentioned you need to prep the joint and then between passes you can grind a nice groove for the next pass and clean it out with a wire wheel .


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[BJ42LX]

That will make a wonderful piece of yard art.

 

[texasfiremedic]

If your serious about welding, I would grind a big groove around the break on both pieces so the root is at least 1/2-3/4" thick, tack weld it, cook it in a forge or an oven at 400-450 for at least a couple of hours. Then weld it with NiRod99. Clean flux amd **** off welds between passes and grind the final weld or cap to flush. ITS ALREADY BROKE. You have nothing to lose other than a little time and welding rod. It makes for a good learning experience.

You will spend more on nickle rod than it is worth. Although you are correct about the technique.

My advise: It is just a beater now.

 

[ironmutt]

if you have access to a mill . mill it flat on the anvil side then mill in a wedge dove tail then make oppisite on the horn side slide them together and shape the joint with a hand grinder horn side should not get a lot of force its more for shaping anyway. after looking for years for a good wrought anvil i learned even a aso is better then nothing the other thing you can do is mill them both flat then weld the horn to a solid reese hitch bar then mount tube under your bench to hold the horn