First attempt fixing panel gap (no body filler)

[Slednut]

I usually use body filler but I have the time so I decided to try adding material and grinding it down.

I did around a foot of the gap on the door yesterday and it turned out pretty good. This morning I did the top of the door and took some pictures. I used a damp rag to keep the metal cool between tacks.

I ended up doing two rolls to have enough material for a proper gap.

I still have a couple spots to fix.

Anyone have advise on this?

 

[WordMan]

Most guys weld a piece of thick welding rod to the edge of the door.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

I usually use body filler but I have the time so I decided to try adding material and grinding it down.

I did around a foot of the gap on the door yesterday and it turned out pretty good. This morning I did the top of the door and took some pictures. I used a damp rag to keep the metal cool between tacks.

I ended up doing two rolls to have enough material for a proper gap.

I still have a couple spots to fix.

Anyone have advise on this?

Not sure what veh you are working on but by end of door
It looks like a 70-71 Torino or Cyclone. The door should be moved back prior to fill gaps. I found when aligned properly they fit quite well.

If it then needs fill I use a tig type filler rod then tack & shape into place.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Did I guess right on vehicle?



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[TimeWarpF100]

During process.

 

[Tracs]

During process.

Wow, photbucket.....

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Wow, photbucket.....

Sshhhhh! They never made me pay the big$$!

 

[Slednut]

Did I guess right on vehicle?

Absolutely, it's a 70 Cyclone GT, I've owned the car for 42 years and the gap at the rear of the doors has always been small towards the bottom to big at the top. If I make the rear gap decent the gap at the bottom gets really huge towards the front.

I do have some filler rod that will probably be the right size for the other door. Thanks

Here's some pictures, they make the bottom gap look worse than it is but it's still a little larger at the front than the rear.

 

[WoodsTruck]

Is that rocker panel low at the front?

It looks lower than than the fender.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

You must have bought it around same time I bought my first one! Bought a ‘70 GT in gold metallic 429 SCJ car black interior. Loved it. Place called Schleppers Performance did engine just prior to when I bought it. 3.91 gears replaced by 2.90 one of best top end cars I have ever owned.

Ok, enough memories back to yours.

It’s always a happy medium for door fit. The door to rocker always gotta be good too then @ 1/4. I then do front fender.
Don’t be afraid to slice into a part for correction also vs just adding.

There were alignment holes when they were all spotted together Probably no 2 ever the same. As long as it was within the edge of window was good enough back then.
I will be following for sure as love these cars. Owned a bunch. Just wish I would have kept one.


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[TimeWarpF100]

Is that rocker panel low at the front?

It looks lower than than the fender.

Rocker does look low.


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[Slednut]

Rocker does look low.

The rocker is lower than the fender (the picture makes it look bad), some people ran a stop sign when I was in my early 20's and I t-boned them. I had the frame straightened and replaced most of the front end except for the hood.

I've fixed a lot of stuff that wasn't done right back then. I also just installed a Mustang II coil over front cross member and I have a 4 link for the rear. I've posted it before on here but this is what it looked like after the wreck. You can see the front fenders are a little different color.

 

[ng8264723]

LOve the barn

 

[Slednut]

LOve the barn

Another pic of the barn.

 

[ng8264723]

Move the truck...…..
Just kidding beautiful truck and barn!

 

[jarhead]

Absolutely, it's a 70 Cyclone GT, I've owned the car for 42 years and the gap at the rear of the doors has always been small towards the bottom to big at the top. If I make the rear gap decent the gap at the bottom gets really huge towards the front.

I do have some filler rod that will probably be the right size for the other door. Thanks

Here's some pictures, they make the bottom gap look worse than it is but it's still a little larger at the front than the rear.

Love the car!

i've been working on a 68 Torino GT for 7 years...

http://www.torinocobra.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=23771

 

[Slednut]

Love the car!

i've been working on a 68 Torino GT for 7 years...

I clicked on but didn't read all the posts on the Torino site from start to finish, at first I thought your car was pretty rust free but it ended up being worse than my car.

I did end up using body filler on the door gap, I guess it was just a dream.

 

[Stuart in MN]

i've been working on a 68 Torino GT for 7 years.

I had a 69 Torino GT notchback back in the late 1970s. 351 Windsor / automatic. It was a great car but eventually it died of terminal rust.

 

[dcs13]

Are the windows and "guts" still in the door ? You need that weight in it to set the gaps..
I'm doing a trunk lid right now on a 55 Chevy.. Its a slow tedious process. You're doing it right.

 

[Slednut]

Are the windows and "guts" still in the door ? You need that weight in it to set the gaps..
I'm doing a trunk lid right now on a 55 Chevy.. Its a slow tedious process. You're doing it right.

I have a 10 pound dolly in the rear of the door, I hope it's enough.

 

[4EyedTurd]

A question on lining doors up that I ran into last night after fixing some hinges. What are you shooting for when trying to get it lined up? I can pull the door back towards the rear and have 1/8-3/16” gap by the door handle but the front of the door is back 3/8” from the front of the rocker.

 

[jarhead]

I clicked on but didn't read all the posts on the Torino site from start to finish, at first I thought your car was pretty rust free but it ended up being worse than my car.

I did end up using body filler on the door gap, I guess it was just a dream.

yep it's a love affair for sure fixing the rust...

 

[NYBODYMAN]

My first question would be why are the gaps no good? Was it hit in the past and not repaired properly, did it fit like **** from the factory and you are trying to achieve better gaps than OEM, are there replacement parts that don't fit well? These are a uni-body construction if I remember correctly,right? If so, I would load weight on the suspension prior to final panel gap fitting. Also, body filler should not be used to fill a gap.

 

[Slednut]

My first question would be why are the gaps no good? Was it hit in the past and not repaired properly, did it fit like **** from the factory and you are trying to achieve better gaps than OEM, are there replacement parts that don't fit well? These are a uni-body construction if I remember correctly,right? If so, I would load weight on the suspension prior to final panel gap fitting. Also, body filler should not be used to fill a gap.

The car has been in a crash, the gaps at the rear of the doors have always been off. I didn't use the filler to fix the gaps, the edges are steel.

Now I'm worried because I have a Mustang II front suspension and a 4 link for the rear. I've only installed the front cross member, was going to have the car painted before installing anymore of the suspension. In order to get the ride height I want, I was going to install the rear suspension last.

 

[jarhead]

if you have a tight deadline for a paint I would go ahead. If you don't I would certainly do everything you wanted first.

Just an opinion...

Joe