First big air compressor
- Thread starter njc41980
- Start date
I don't doubt its an 80 gallon tank, would need to see the motor data plate and a model number on the pump.
Could be a clone, I'd rather have the original.
That definately looks like a 2 cylinder, 2 stage pump. The thing on the side is the inner cooler between stages. Honestly, that looks like a big 7.5hp compressor. It might be a copy of a good brand but it certainly was a copy of a high end compressor.
When I was looking for a Saylor Beall the people I talked too at the local compressor shop told me that no legit 703, 705, or 707 S-Bs came with the cast cooler on the output side. They also told me one of the best ways to spot a fake was metric bolts on the heads and crankcase.
Model 703-705 models have a single intercooler.
rbahr
Well-known member
My 1st choice and 2nd choice is Quincy. Saylor Beall is my next choice. You can easily buy parts for your 60 YO Quincy. I currently have a 5hp single phase Beall - simply because I paid $300 at an auction for the 705 - was looking for a 5hp Quincy, but figured that this was an OK choice. The 'good' Quincys have an oil pump and filter to make sure the innards stay lubricated, the Saylor is splash lubricated. This means that the Saylor will only last 75 years as opposed to the 150 for the Quincy 
It is said that the Quincys are the pump of choice for the oil rigs, as they just run...
I would suggest that you use a starter with a proper (IE not Craftsman, etc) 5hp motor.
My system is actually plumbed in, the compressor is always on etc...
Ray
It is said that the Quincys are the pump of choice for the oil rigs, as they just run...
I would suggest that you use a starter with a proper (IE not Craftsman, etc) 5hp motor.
My system is actually plumbed in, the compressor is always on etc...
Ray
Last edited:
Ike Carlson
Well-known member
If that saylor beall clone is available, jump on it. I picked one up (just the compressor) for $10 after it sat in a snowbank all winter. It cleaned right up and is built like a tank. The clone is made by Industrial Air or Eaton/Emax. Eaton uses roller bearings on the piston pin. Industrial Air uses roller bearing or bronze bushing. Mine has the bronze bushings. I am refurbishing the head, but the rest is together. Solid pumps. There is a reason they copied the saylor beall 705.
MacMcMacmac
Well-known member
Kelloggs are solid machines, but they seem to strip threads amazingly easily for some reason. They were built under license by a company called LaPlante compressors out of Hong Kong for quite a while before Kellogg was shut down. Now they are back on the market as a stand alone company instead of a division of CompAir. Dollars to doughnuts they are still being made by Laplante. I would not hesitate to buy one in good condition. Some people I worked with claimed they passed oil more than others but I never noticed it. They were a staple at Sears auto shops since Sears actually sold Kelloggs for many years.
MacMcMacmac
Well-known member
If it looks like a Saylor Beall but is not labelled as such you can rest assured it's a clone. SB pumps would be way to expensive to build a house brand around. We looked at selling them back in the mid 90's and the prices were eye-watering. Interestingly enough, everything they sold down to the smallest single cylinder pump could be had with pressure lube back then.
rbahr
Well-known member
I REALLY wanted pressure lube on the 705 I got, but the price was right, and this is good enough - a real workhorse!
DerekV
Well-known member
Somebody stop me.
I've been researching and shopping for a compressor for too long and things are getting out of hand.
I started off thinking I'd just get any old 60 gallon compressor.
Then I decided that it needed to be 2-stage.
Then my desire grew be at least 80 gallons.
Next I learned that some brands were way better than others.
After that I figured out that a low speed pump was way quieter.
Now I'm starting to think that I need disc valves instead of reed valves.
The more I learn, the more I convince myself that I need more overkill at even greater expense.
I honestly don't even use or need air that much, but somebody better stop me or I'll decide that I can't live without a pressure-lubricated Quincy or Advantage-series Champion at over $3K.
[emoji23][emoji106]
Ike Carlson
Well-known member
I started with wanting a 30 gallon, then a 50, then 60... Cfm followed suit. The more research I did and the more I looked/learned, the higher the target got. I found a 120 gallon tank and have been saving it. Then I found my 705 clone. Then my current Westinghouse 60 gallon which works well, but doesn't have a lot of cfm but will pump to the moon.
Most brands are trying to sell "more for the money" but often do just the opposite by cutting corners, using cheaper parts, or just inflating the price. The actual good ones are expensive, but you are getting something you can trust and that will likely last at least your lifetime and maybe your kids/grandkids.
I like to fix stuff, so fixing my 705 clone and getting it running doesn't bother me one bit. I know it is a good design, it was scrap when I got it and it was affordable, and I can get it back in good shape. If I can get a good compressor out of someone's garbage, why not?
Most brands are trying to sell "more for the money" but often do just the opposite by cutting corners, using cheaper parts, or just inflating the price. The actual good ones are expensive, but you are getting something you can trust and that will likely last at least your lifetime and maybe your kids/grandkids.
I like to fix stuff, so fixing my 705 clone and getting it running doesn't bother me one bit. I know it is a good design, it was scrap when I got it and it was affordable, and I can get it back in good shape. If I can get a good compressor out of someone's garbage, why not?
TRWham
Well-known member
The one in those pictures looks like a Kellogg 331 to me and would have been built well before CompAir absorbed Kellogg. I suppose it could be a 352, but I have a 60 gallon horizontal 331 from 1958 that is nearly identical to the one in the photos. The 331 was a long stroke (4.75" LP bore/2.5" HP bore by 4" stroke) compressor that was superseded by the 332 (different head arrangement) and eventually they went strictly to the 335, which is a shorter stroke (3") higher rpm compressor for the same capacity. They have disc valves and splash lubrication with a centrifugal unloader. Mine still has the original Air-Maze air cleaner but if the one on "your" compressor was there, they have removed it to rig for lifting.
I bought mine about 2 years ago. We inspected and pressure tested it, rearranged the piping, built a new base, changed the oil and belt (banded 3B belts are still available) and installed a new starter, and it has been trouble free ever since. It produces over 21 cfm at 150 psi running at ~600 rpm with a 7.5 hp motor pulling about 28 Amps (measured), but these were listed by Kellogg as 5 hp compressors. I have found it to be a quiet, robust machine that has run die grinders, chipping hammers and a little sandblasting with no issues. If that one is in good shape and the price is right, it should be a good solution for you.
Looks like a KA 352 pump.
dnschmidt
Well-known member
OK, I saw an obviously offensive comment on this thread that should be taken down immediately. THE BIZARRE CONCEPT THAT THERE IS SUCH A THING AS TOO LARGE OF AN AIR COMPRESSOR. Blasphemy I tell you blasphemy.
TRWham
Well-known member
It does, but it also looks like a 331 and would they put a 352 on what looks like a 60 gallon tank? That's why I think it's a 331.
Last edited:
Somebody stop me.
I've been researching and shopping for a compressor for too long and things are getting out of hand.
I started off thinking I'd just get any old 60 gallon compressor.
Then I decided that it needed to be 2-stage.
Then my desire grew be at least 80 gallons.
Next I learned that some brands were way better than others.
After that I figured out that a low speed pump was way quieter.
Now I'm starting to think that I need disc valves instead of reed valves.
The more I learn, the more I convince myself that I need more overkill at even greater expense.
I honestly don't even use or need air that much, but somebody better stop me or I'll decide that I can't live without a pressure-lubricated Quincy or Advantage-series Champion at over $3K.
I feel your pain, and just went thru that process. Still trying to decide if I just put a better pump and motor on my 80gal or find one ready
TRWham
Well-known member
It can be a great compressor, but it depends on:
- Condition (e.g. ran when parked)?
- Price?
- What accessories (e.g. starter)?
- The motor looks like a big TEFC (maybe a 213 or 215 frame) and might be 3 phase- do you have the power to accommodate it?
It supposedly ran, but hasn't been used in some time. It was stored indoors.
I can get it for under $500.
It doesn't have a starter. The pressure switch needs to be wired up.
The pump is a 331.
I don't know details of the motor, but it's supposed to be single phase 220v.
I'll also not quite certain how big the tank is, but I think it's 80 gal approximately.
I can get it for under $500.
It doesn't have a starter. The pressure switch needs to be wired up.
The pump is a 331.
I don't know details of the motor, but it's supposed to be single phase 220v.
I'll also not quite certain how big the tank is, but I think it's 80 gal approximately.
MacMcMacmac
Well-known member
See if you can still get parts for it. 335 is the newer model.
TRWham
Well-known member
You can get parts for the 331, although I have not needed any. I have been quite satisfied with mine and, if your target is in good working order, I imagine it will be a good solution, but only you can decide if this compressor is right for you.
BTW, from the photos I am pretty sure that receiver is 60 gallons, if that makes a difference.
BTW, from the photos I am pretty sure that receiver is 60 gallons, if that makes a difference.
ZenMoto
Well-known member
Do any of you have experience with the Polar Air compressors by Eaton?
I’m in a similar boat and they seem to have a good checklist of what I’m looking for ....relatively quiet being among them.
I’m in a similar boat and they seem to have a good checklist of what I’m looking for ....relatively quiet being among them.
Well, I took the plunge and bought the Kellogg for $425.
It's a big old compressor. Been sitting unused for a good while, but it's pretty clean - been indoors - and it turns over well by hand. Made in 1964. The pump and motor are both huge. Pump is a 331 and the motor is a 7.5 hp single phase. The tank doesn't say how big, but I think it's 60 gallons.
This thing dwarfs my Dakota.
It's a big old compressor. Been sitting unused for a good while, but it's pretty clean - been indoors - and it turns over well by hand. Made in 1964. The pump and motor are both huge. Pump is a 331 and the motor is a 7.5 hp single phase. The tank doesn't say how big, but I think it's 60 gallons.
This thing dwarfs my Dakota.
Attachments
The Tool Tyrant
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Mag Starter: Square D, Eaton, Siemens
Auto drains: Bekomat (BIG $, but great) Tsunami. Only two I recommend, although there are many others.
sberry
Banned
I like it. Personally would skip the auto drain and put a convenient valve solution on it.
nadogail
Well-known member
The manual tank drain is less expensive and more positive than the automatic.
May you enjoy your compressor for many years of good health.
csp
Well-known member
Given the arid climate of Idaho Falls, I'd skip the auto drain and get in the habit of manually checking it once in a while.
I'm in a similar climate and rarely get much water, even when it has run for an hour constantly while bead blasting.
I'm in a similar climate and rarely get much water, even when it has run for an hour constantly while bead blasting.