First Cordless Drill

[deskjockey]

It's a light weight tool with amazing capabilities, I do not use it in my business, I prefer to keep it for my use at home. Go pick one up at the store and you will see how comfortable it is.

Wow, I'm really putting the sell on this item.

I will, in the next few days. You are referring to Milwaukee M12 Fuel cordless drill?

 

[uart]

My $ 15 HF drill, if it works for a couple of furniture assemblies, I would know that I got my money's worth out of it.

What size, in terms of V, would be adequate for home use?

18V like you got is fine. It depends on the tool and the brand, some brands 12V product can have as much torque or more than anothers 18V product. Personally I think anywhere in the 12 to 18 volt range is fairly good for home use. A two (or more) speed gearbox helps a lot to give better speed/torque range for different jobs. It's mostly the better quality drills that feature that.

Have you tested the HF drill yet. You'll have to give us a mini review of it's performance for $15.

 

[bcradio]

Yes, for a given battery type the higher the voltage then the more cells are used and the heavier the pack. However Li-Ion batteries are much lighter than nicad, so a 20V Li-Ion pack may be lighter than a 12V nicad one for example.....

Partially true... It also depends on the size of the cells being put in the battery and whether or not they are arranged in series or parallel or a combination of both.

 

[Matt M PA]

I've had a cordless 18v DeWalt hammerdrill for years. The hammer setting can be turned off. It's just started to act funky and I'm not sure if it's the batteries or the drill. It did smoke once...so I'm betting at least the brushes are toast.

So...I've been toying with getting the same drill again as a bare tool at Lowes...or starting over with a new kit. I have an impact gun that uses the same batteries...so I'm leaning towards new bare tool if my batteries are still good. (Or perhaps having the old one repaired)

I also have one of the little Makita M12 drill-drivers that I use a lot. I use it for lighter duty drilling and often for removing all the screws that hold the PITA panels under car for an oil change, etc.

 

[IndyGarage]

Personally I use a driver much more than a drill these days.

For drilling 12V-18V is the best. Pretty much every name brand unit is good. Some are better than others.

More important than the tool is the battery pack. the compact 12v units are OK, but they are designed more for convenience than hard use. You want at least 2.0 AH and better is 3.0 ah or more.

18V is almost overkill for a drill or driver, but the newest ones are compact enough that it's not too bad.

If I were buying today I would probably go for Dewault 20V Max, Milwaukee Fuel or Makita Brushless at 18V - with 3.0 AH capacity battery, or Panasonic 14.4V with 3.3 AH battery.

If you buy an 18V with 1.5 AH battery, you need two batteries to keep going, so buy a kit with a drill and an impact driver and two batteries.

Several other brands are more consumer oriented, but the drills and drivers are good - Ridgid, Porter Cable, and Ryobi are all OK. I was over at HD this morning and saw a Ryobi with an 1.5 ah lithium battery for only 39.99 if you just need a drill, it's ok good and that's a screaming deal.

 

[deskjockey]

18V like you got is fine. It depends on the tool and the brand, some brands 12V product can have as much torque or more than anothers 18V product. Personally I think anywhere in the 12 to 18 volt range is fairly good for home use. A two (or more) speed gearbox helps a lot to give better speed/torque range for different jobs. It's mostly the better quality drills that feature that.

Have you tested the HF drill yet. You'll have to give us a mini review of it's performance for $15.

I used the HF 15 to assemble furniture. It had too much torque and speed, I was afraid that I would strip the special screw heads. So quit using the drill.

I ended up using a screw driver. Took more time but the job was done satisfactorily.

 

[neonnblack]

Get the Ryobi lithiumion 18v kit. You'll like it, its an awesome drill.

 

[Filson]

Makita 18v LXT 1/2" has worked wonders for me. I've used it for simple home use stuff, wire-wheeling vises, and at work building firetrucks. From dead to fully charged, takes about 30 minutes. But with the two batteries, you can charge one up while using the other. After buying mine and using it for a few months, I'd never want to spend money on another brand if this one were to ever die.

Below is the kit I bought, if you don't need the impact you can pick up the driver/drill individually. The side handle and guide can be removed (first thing I did).

View media item 37135
I'm much less picky about corded drills as they tend to be more simple. Pick you power, and stick with a decent name (Makita, DeWalt) and you'll have a great drill for years.

 

[rharman]

If you're doing assembly type work, the cordless with a clutch will be a better bet. Since you mentioned very low usage, my concern would be that the battery would be dead when you needed it.

I really like my older DeWalt 18V XRP. Now, I'd go with the 20V Li-Ion.

I had Craftsman corded and cordless for years. When I held the DeWalt, I was sold. Balance and feel was great.

For corded, I still have two Craftsman. One is their Professional model but I don't know if that's even offered anymore. It too has a really comfortable feel.

 

[uart]

I used the HF 15 to assemble furniture. It had too much torque and speed, I was afraid that I would strip the special screw heads. So quit using the drill.

I ended up using a screw driver. Took more time but the job was done satisfactorily.

Does the drill not have speed control and an adjustable torque clutch? Your drill is probably this one right: http://www.harborfreight.com/power-...iver-with-keyless-chuck-38-18-volt-69651.html

Sorry, I don't mean to insult your intelligence, but seeing how this is your first cordless drill I have to ask. Do you know how to use the variable speed and adjustable torque clutch features?

 

[BioNerd]

Dude, that is a total waste of money!! it's like 600 bucks!!

For me, driving 2 1/2 and 3 inch screws all day doing trim:

Milwaukee m12 item 2462-22.
Two batteries and a charger plus a serious impact driver that has such a sensitive trigger that I can use to install hardware on doors too.

(I don't even use nail guns now, only GRKs)

When I need to drill and bore thru doors, then I go for my RYOBI ONE 18V monster drill. Kicks makitas **** in a rush.

That brushless 1000lb torque lil impact gun has impressed everyone I let borrow it. Soon, I compare it with cell phone technology, I say "remember when cellphones came with a whole briefcase as a battery?"

Hands down the best I've handled.

You can also get less powerful version in a combo with a drill for like 130 bucks and makita makes their cute lil 12 combo for $99 at HD.

My opinion is to get a ****** but powerful corded drill and this impact driver.


-To be everything, be nobody.

 

[BioNerd]

I used the HF 15 to assemble furniture. It had too much torque and speed, I was afraid that I would strip the special screw heads. So quit using the drill.

I ended up using a screw driver. Took more time but the job was done satisfactorily.

I install some hardware, Baldwin been the bottom price line.

First of all, you need to start using Vix bits if you haven't. But you're right, small screws are better done by hand.

I wouldn't use a drill to drive any screw either! Unless is a lil screw gun but the lack of power would be a problem.

I use my impact driver to drive the longer wood screws until just before the end, then a regular screwdriver or a ratchet screwdriver. For lil finish metal to metal bolts and screws (plates and stuff), only good ol'screwdrivers.

Seems like the impact driver is a better option to brass, IME.


-To be everything, be nobody.

 

[deskjockey]

Does the drill not have speed control and an adjustable torque clutch? Your drill is probably this one right: http://www.harborfreight.com/power-...iver-with-keyless-chuck-38-18-volt-69651.html

Sorry, I don't mean to insult your intelligence, but seeing how this is your first cordless drill I have to ask. Do you know how to use the variable speed and adjustable torque clutch features?

Its HF 67024. 0-900 rpm, 24 torque settings (the round dial). What I did is, set the torque at 5 (should have set it to 1), and pushed the button to lower speed. I did drive 3 screws with the drill, then got preemptively cautious. The screws were small and delicate.

 

[deskjockey]

But you're right, small screws are better done by hand.

This action seemed prudent while assembling the furniture.

IMO, this multipurpose organizer would make a fine gift to your better half or children. Its not high quality but very functional.

 

[uart]

Its HF 67024. 0-900 rpm, 24 torque settings (the round dial). What I did is, set the torque at 5 (should have set it to 1), and pushed the button to lower speed. I did drive 3 screws with the drill, then got preemptively cautious. The screws were small and delicate.

Yeah no problems, I know what it's like trying to do delicate work with those things. Some have really fine torque control (like you can literally stall it with two fingers on setting #1), while other tend to be a bit coarse and even setting #1 is too much for small screws into softwood. If unsure it's best to start at too lower setting and work your way up.

You can test the torque of the lower settings by just holding the chuck stalled with your hand and then pulling the trigger. Setting #1 should be very weak on a general home use drill/driver.

Also some drills slow down to give good control at low speed much better than others. Some cheap drills give too little torque to turn at low speed, so you have to keep depressing the trigger further, and then they suddenly they "flip out" and give full power - very annoying. Others are much better and still give you plenty of torque and control even at low speed.

 

[deskjockey]

Yeah no problems, I know what it's like trying to do delicate work with those things. Some have really fine torque control (like you can literally stall it with two fingers on setting #1), while other tend to be a bit coarse and even setting #1 is too much for small screws into softwood. If unsure it's best to start at too lower setting and work your way up.

You can test the torque of the lower settings by just holding the chuck stalled with your hand and then pulling the trigger. Setting #1 should be very weak on a general home use drill/driver.

Also some drills slow down to give good control at low speed much better than others. Some cheap drills give too little torque to turn at low speed, so you have to keep depressing the trigger further, and then they suddenly they "flip out" and give full power - very annoying. Others are much better and still give you plenty of torque and control even at low speed.

In this case, the drill was like bringing a bazooka to subdue a chihuahua.

I know someone who lives in Western Australia. Good people, he says. They like to drink. Life is less of a rat race there.

Side Issue: How does HF make money out of selling a drill for $15? How does the manufacturer of this drill (a company in China) make money from selling this drill?

 

[Monte]

Dude, that is a total waste of money!! it's like 600 bucks!!

$245.-.... with angle adapter $295.-... for me it´s the perfect 10,8 volt drill and worth the money

 

[roche]

Makita 18v LXT 1/2" has worked wonders for me. I've used it for simple home use stuff, wire-wheeling vises, and at work building firetrucks. From dead to fully charged, takes about 30 minutes. But with the two batteries, you can charge one up while using the other. After buying mine and using it for a few months, I'd never want to spend money on another brand if this one were to ever die.

Below is the kit I bought, if you don't need the impact you can pick up the driver/drill individually. The side handle and guide can be removed (first thing I did).

I have the same kit and it has lived trough a lot.