First garage - DIY storage plans?

[NOMAD]

Hello all,
I've been trolling around and am starting my own garage very soon. I finally have a 2 car 20'x25' garage (attached to a house) and will be setting it up mainly for auto projects and hanging out. It'll serve as daily parking too but probably just for my wife's car (for convenience or something).
I'm probably picking up a Craftsman rollerbox with topbox this weekend.
Plan to add wiring and lighting, paint all white, simple clear sealer on floor for now...

I'm on a tight budget and just want to get it to a good starting point.
I'll definitely be making my own cabinets, work tables and cupboards. Framing out of 2x4s and 2x2s. Tops out of plywood and solid core closet doors I have, and then a thin outer face to make it look nice and hang some doors. I want doors on everything so it'll look nice and uncluttered.

Does anyone have good drawings of how to make some strong work table/cabinets and wall-hanging cupboards? I'd like to put all work tables on lockable wheels to be able to move them around for various tasks. This was a suggestion I heard a lot and never thought of before.

I've read about using malamine, MDF, plywood and other materials for cabinets etc. I'd like to make some middle-road use items. Suggestions?

I'm looking for some basic plans for drawers too. I'll be getting a table saw and may try my hand at box joints or dados. I can buy sliders at HD and fit them up.

Any help is appreciated.

 

[1320stang]

There was a post recently, can't remember if it was here or on the HAMB board, about a guy that bought some used industrial shelving at a place that resales that type of stuff. Like 500# rating on the shelves, he put them in the corner and took some cabinet grade plywood and built two sides and put up some doors and they look like some high dollar cabinets from the outside. I think he did it for about $350.

 

[NOMAD]

I may be able to get some steel shelves from work. I hope I do because that'd be a ton of ******** storage.

Here's my basic upper cupboard plan:
In the mean time I'm going to use 2x4 cleat to the wall, 2x4 framework with triangulation on corners, 2x2 lower cleat to wall and 2x2 "skeleton". 3" deck screws for fastening. 1/2" plywood (or MDF) shelves (should go thicker?). 1x2s will create the lip for shelves to sit on. Then miter some 1x3 front frame and work on making doors.

Should I make them ceiling high so I can attach the frame to the ceiling for strength? I'm thinking 18" deep is good. 16' of these should make for a TON of storage.

Work table/ cabinet ideas:
double up 2x4s for 4 vertical corner posts. 2x4 frame around lower legs to create bottom shelf with add'l center beam. 2x4 frame and center beam at top to support tabletop. Heavy locking casters all 4 legs. Thinner plywood to enclose three sides of the cabinet, 1x3 to frame out opening. 1/2" or 3/4" MDF or plywood to create the bottom and center shelves. Solid core 2" MDF (closet doors) for worktop, cover with metalsheet or VCT. Doors to fit.

 

[Raven1911]

I am kinda in the same boat as you. Here is what I found....

http://www.rd.com/familyhandyman/articles/200212/fixit/main.html

http://www.shopnotes.com/issues/054/extras/roll-around-tool-cart/

http://plansnow.com/dn3077.html

http://plansnow.com/shelves.html

http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/resources/index.php?cat=102

That is just a few of what I have been able to find. I plan on using that first link I gave you and building that workbench in my garage, but modifying it for me. Hope that helps. Let us know what you do! BTW, I think 1/2 inch ply is real strong for the cabinets you plan to make, I wouldn't go any thicker than that.

 

[NOMAD]

Great links, thanks!
I like the first link. I see a few good ideas that I may implement. I don;t think it'll be too much more work to double up the legs and add casters. Getting under those to clean the accumulated junk/dust would get old.
I like the flip out assembly table, definitely want to do that...

 

[KGorney]

You could also try looking for decent old metal kitchen cabinets. There is a post from a member who did that.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=26997&highlight=kitchen+cabinets+steel#post26997

Looks good and those old 50's steel cabinets are rock solid.
I'm actually picking up 18 steel kitchen cabinets tonight for $300. They appear to be the same as the ones in the pictures linked above.

 

[kbs2244]

First, I don't like upper shelves mor than 12 inchs deep. That is enough to get a 5 gal pail or a milk carton on. Anything deeper and you tend to have stuff in front of stuff and you can't see or remember what the behind stuff is or where it is at. 16 or 18 inchs high is good. No more or you start putting things on top of things.

Second, No need to tie the upper ends of the uprights into the celing. The top shelf tied into your wall cleat and your front horizional support will stiffen everything up. And it gives you a high shelf to put long things on without the need to thread them through the uprights.
I just use 2x3's and 1/2 inch plywood. Cleats on the wall and matching horizionals drywall screwed to the uprights. The shelves hold the 2 together. Do take the time to paint everything white befor you even start to cut it. The white really makes it easier to see things. This is real true if you are going to put on doors. They block a lot of light. And doing it before you start cutting up the wood means you don't have to try and get a paint brush into all kind of tight places. You just need to do some touch up work on any exposed ends and edges.
Just paint it the night before you are going to work and leave it in the garage with a fan going. It will be ready, waiting, dry, and bright in the AM.

Third, For a workbench top, I go with the cheapest white surface paneling I can get. It is called a throwaway top. Unless you go with a metal top (Expensisve) you are going top scar up a workbench. Accept it, live with it, and make it easy to replace. Besides, it makes you clean up the bench every once in a while.
Mine lays on a structrual surface of 2x6's Since you aren't going to need the full 4x8 size, you can often get the beat up panels at real discount. My current top is the shiny bathroom wall stuff, and I got the panel with 3 dinged corners for $1.50 I am not out there every day, maybe 3 or 4 nights a week, and my tops last about 2 years. I do mostly car type stuff. Bench work is alternators, P S pumps, starters, etc.

 

[NOMAD]

Great tips. I never thought to paint before cutting but for this job it sounds like a no-brainer. I also like the idea of the white bathroom panelling for the surface skin of the workbench. It'd be smooth and could wipe down easily. I like that.

The previous owner made deep cupboards and I piled a lot of stuff in there. On teh other hand, I can see what you mean by not being able to see or find anything. I didn't think about a place to store long items like pipe, trim strips, etc. I think I'll go with a normal set up, not ceiling height.

No matter how many times I work it through I always get good ideas from people who've already "been there".
That's probably the main reason i'll be putting casters on the benches. A little more effort but I'm sure I'll love the adjustability.