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First home & first epoxy job. Need advice.

xenonsupra

New member
Joined
Jan 28, 2014
Messages
2
Hi everyone, I just purchased my first home and plan to epoxy the garage floor before we move in. I have been doing loads of reading & research but still wanted to run my plan by you guys before I get started in the next couple days. I greatly appreciate any advice that you may have.

Below is my plan:
  • Fill in small crack with Rust-Oleum Concrete Patch
  • Allow 8 hrs for curing
  • Sand any remaining patch
  • Sweep off all debris
  • Hose down floor (I don't have a pressure washer)
  • Use degreasers & wire brushes to remove all oil/ stains (I plan on using the degreaser that came with my H&C Shield-Crete Kit. I also have greased lightning/ simple green.
  • Next I plan to use some sand paper on the areas where my car tires will rest. I read that roughing up these areas will significantly decrease the likelihood of hot tires peeling up the epoxy.
  • After removing all stains & sanding I will rinse the floor
  • After rinsing I will use the H&C Concrete Etch. I am a little concerned about using this on the vertical surfaces on the outer walls. I will have to do the best I can to make sure those surfaces are treated properly.
  • I will allow the etch to foam up and sit on the surface for several minutes
  • Rinse the floor very well, confirm that all stains are removed and that the surface is ready for paint
  • Squeegee and allow concrete to dry for 24 hours
  • I bought 3 kits of the H&C epoxy. I hopefully will only need to use 2 but I have the 3rd just incase I run out.
  • I will mix the 2 parts of the first kit and stir vigorously using the drill mixer attachment.
  • I will use a brush to apply this to the side/top of the outer walls and cover a few inches of the actual floor surface edges. I will sprinkle the decorative flakes on top within about 5 minutes of painting.
  • Next I will roll on the epoxy in 4x4 foot squares followed by flakes until the entire garage is covered.
  • Allow to sit 24 hours
  • Sweep off any flakes that did not stick
  • Mix in non-skid additive (from epoxy kit) with the Clear Glaze and paint outer walls & roll garage floor.
  • Allow 24 hours to dry and 72 hours before heavy items.

I'm open to any suggestions/ modifications to my above plan & I also have a few questions.

1. Should I rent a power washer? I'd prefer not to but if its absolutely necessary I will.

2. What are these (in the 2nd/3rd pic below) & how should I work around them? I'm thinking I will just clean up the surrounding concrete very well and then just hand paint the epoxy a few inches around the circle before rolling... I'm concerned that it may start peeling up around this area.

3. Should I mix in the non-skid additive to the clear coat or the epoxy? I would assume the clear coat even though it is packaged with the epoxy...

Here are a few pictures:
This side wall is the one I'm worried about prepping properly. Any advice on etching vertical surfaces?
QDCNw1y.jpg


Not sure what these are, close up is below.
CJg4eJC.jpg


What is this??
1nwhJXU.jpg


Small crack
hQyfgCz.jpg


Thanks!!
 
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NitroShark

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 8, 2010
Messages
518
Location
Greenville, SC
You should return the "big box store" epoxy and purchase a 100% solids product.

Then I would suggest diamond grinding the surface and patch around any cracks you have. If not, you will be redoing it all in a very short time if you do any type of shop work in your garage.

Shawn
 
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xenonsupra

New member
Joined
Jan 28, 2014
Messages
2
I don't plan on doing any serious work on the garage floor. The garage will take very little wear and tear. Mainly just parking 2 cars.

I was able to get this product at a significant discount through a friend. From what I have read it should hold up fine for my usage if applied correctly. While I do understand there are higher quality and heavier duty epoxies available, this one seems to be the best combination for me in terms of ease of use, quality and cost.

Assuming I do use this product, how does my plan sound?
 
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Garage Flooring

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
You should return the "big box store" epoxy and purchase a 100% solids product.

Then I would suggest diamond grinding the surface and patch around any cracks you have. If not, you will be redoing it all in a very short time if you do any type of shop work in your garage.

Shawn

This comment is dead on. If you are going to disregard the information regarding using a better product, you still need to consider the other suggestions regarding surface prep etc.

What part of the country are you in? Read the data sheet ( http://www.paintdocs.com/webmsds/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=HC&doctype=PDS&lang=E&prodno=035777724651 ) closely especially as it pertains to full cure time and humidity as well as surface prep.

The key question is what are you expecting to get from this product. If you good with some mixed results, especially where the tires are and where the oil stains are than that's your answer. Understand if you do this and your not happy you will have to grind it all down before you do anything else as far as a coating.

Epoxy Coat and legacy have some inexpensive solutions, but I understand you have already purchased this.
 

artisticrocks

Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2014
Messages
11
Location
New Braunfels, Tx
You should return the "big box store" epoxy and purchase a 100% solids product.

Then I would suggest diamond grinding the surface and patch around any cracks you have. If not, you will be redoing it all in a very short time if you do any type of shop work in your garage.

Shawn

Hey guy,

I am new to this forum but not new to the flooring business by any means. H&C is at least a step up from the big box stores products but you really should heed the advice above. We receive at least one call a week asking us how much it costs to remove those epoxies and to redue the floor because its peeling with little to no traffic. Why does it peel so easily?

Improper floor prep (just using a power washer and not mechanically etching), inferior product, no topcoat, not reading and following the data sheet.

If you continue with this product then I have to ask if you requested the data sheet and aren't just going off what the guy at the counter suggested. Some of the H&C epoxies require them to sit after mixing.

Brian
 
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