First post, I jacked my air compressor fitting. Suggestions.

[Robert83GT]

Hello, long time lurker but first time posting.

Yesterday, I made the mistake of buying a automatic water drain system from HF....I know.....and while threading the t fitting into the compressor the fitting snapped off.

Tried to extract the brass fitting stump with a hack saw and when that failed, used my extractor set. That really only jammed the threads with brass which required chasing the thread with my tap.

Now that I'm trying to return it back to how I had it, I cannot seem to stop it from leaking at the fitting. I have used Teflon tape and Teflon paste but cannot seem to fix it.

At this point, I'm considering soldering it, but not sure that will work either.

Suggestions? Help....

 

[Thumper68]

Go get some rector seal, that and a few wraps of Teflon tape should fix you up.

Follow the directions on the can.

 

[rick carpenter]

Go get some rector seal...

Don't you need a prescription for that? Oh, oh, oh... nevermind, you said rector seal!

If Thumper's suggestion doesn't work, could you tap it up cleanly to the next metric size that might be just ever-so-slightly larger?

 

[PoorOwner]

You chased it with a pipe thread tap right?

 

[Strouty]

When you say you used a tap, was it a regular tap or one for pipe threads?

Beat me to it.

Rector seal is the best thing out there.

 

[lakeroadster]

Rector? Damn near killed her.

Sorry, sometimes I just can't help myself

What is the outside diameter of the fitting? Perhaps post up a photo. Depending on what rating of fitting was welded into the tank you may be able to step up to the next larger size, drill the tank fitting and use the correct NPT tap to repair the issue.

 

[Richard Cranium]

I have also used a little silicone with good luck.

 

[Finky198]

+2 for rector seal

I tend to use paste followed by a min of 3 wraps on tape, unless it over 3/4" then it gets same treatment with thicker tape and sometimes an extra wrap or two. Its the best advice I ever gotten from a plumber...

 

[Gmonkee]

A slather of Indian Head gasket sealer and let set for a full day.

That stuff is tenacious to remove later too.

 

[CNGsaves]

Thought there for a minute that those posts said . . . . . RECTAL . . . !!!!! . .

 

[jhelrey]

Teflon paste, 3 or so wraps of teflon tape, and then teflon paste.

 

[Strouty]

What is the outside diameter of the fitting? Perhaps post up a photo. Depending on what rating of fitting was welded into the tank you may be able to step up to the next larger size, drill the tank fitting and use the correct NPT tap to repair the issue.

I am guessing that it is a welded bung and they may not be able to make the next size work. I think Rector Seal and letting it sit overnight is the best bet.

 

[lakeroadster]

I am guessing that it is a welded bung and they may not be able to make the next size work. I think Rector Seal and letting it sit overnight is the best bet.

Yeah, I was hoping the op could supply some additional data... therefore taking the guessing out of the equation.

 

[Strouty]

Well it could be a while, took them over a year to post the question.

 

[Robert83GT]

https://goo.gl/photos/pcNnBJkMYy645iQE7

I bought a new T and am trying to install again but still getting a leak after tape and paste. I filled the tank (30 gallons) last night and have lost 8 psi over night....

 

[Strouty]

So did you use a regular tap or one designed specifically for pipe threads? Pipe threads have a taper to create a seal and regular threads are straight and would not create the same seal.

 

[Robert83GT]

I'm going to go buy some rectal today and see if that works.

The bung is large enough that I could possibly tap larger if I go with an AN fitting.

 

[Robert83GT]

I used a regular tap. Which probably screwed me.

 

[Robert83GT]

Actually I just looked at the tap and it has NPT stamped on it.

 

[Strouty]

Make sure and ask for "RECTOR" seal, they may look at you funny otherwise.

Did you run the tap all the way through the hole?

 

[Bondo]

Actually I just looked at the tap and it has NPT stamped on it.

Ayuh,.... By the looks of yer picture, ya ran the tap in w a y to deep, 'n now the hole is t o o big,...

It's a Tapered thread tap,...

 

[lakeroadster]

Bummer..... On tapered threads you need to follow the chart below in regard to depth of thread.

I'd be inclined to use a steel fitting instead of brass. Rust is your friend in this case.

 

[monkeyspanners]

As a kill or cure measure, could you epoxy the fitting in? Would need all the parts cleaning thoroughly before hand.

 

[manwithtools]

Why would use a jack on your compressor?

In all seriousness, can you post a picture of the "jacked hole" in question? We might be able to suggest other solutions if we could see the application.

Whoops, I just saw the picture. Sure looks like it's tapped too deep. I would not epoxy this as it's in a pressure application. It might work fine and then again .....

As a permanent and proper fix, I would drill and then tap to the next largest NPT size then use a reducer bushing if needed. Be sure you understand how to do that properly or take it to a machine shop.

 

[lakeroadster]

https://goo.gl/photos/pcNnBJkMYy645iQE7

I bought a new T and am trying to install again but still getting a leak after tape and paste. I filled the tank (30 gallons) last night and have lost 8 psi over night....

 

[The Cobbler]

.....
The bung is large enough that I could possibly tap larger if I go with an AN fitting.

or buy a helicoil insert kit for the size pipe you are using

 

[PoorOwner]

Hi, made sure to use lots of tape and sealer now but don't let the brass threads go in deeper than the threads of the tank, otherwise not all water can drain out as shown in your picture. there maybe just enought metal left to tap bigger.

 

[monkeyspanners]

This is the stuff i was thinking of, have used it to good effect on refrigeration systems.

http://controlscentral.com/eCatalog...rchValue/DiversiTech Corporation/Default.aspx

 

[manwithtools]

or buy a helicoil insert kit for the size pipe you are using

I thought about Helicoil as well, but their taps are so expensive for a one time project that I was reluctant to offer that. I should have carefully read every reply as others suggested stepping up toe next size NPT before me.

I'd say this: if the original thread size is 1/4" NPT then you might have room to go 3/8" NPT just looking at the picture. If the original was 3/8" then going to 1/2 may be too much for that bung. I'd want at least a 1/4" of steel left all the way around the threaded hole.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

So many people don't remember or don't know that NPT pipe threads are tapered. It heard enough to see it on the male fitting and probably impossible to see on the female fitting. Then if you run into this every five to seven years ... most of us will forget that over time.

While I feel for OP'er, this is a very good post and replies ... very educational.

 

[Robert83GT]

This is the stuff i was thinking of, have used it to good effect on refrigeration systems.

http://controlscentral.com/eCatalog...rchValue/DiversiTech Corporation/Default.aspx

I was thinking of welding a steel AN fitting, but this looks like an easy 'fix'.

I am going to try RECTOR seal in a few hours and follow up with my results.

 

[Strouty]

Welding to a pressure vessel is a sure way to get yourself shamed on this forum. Unless you are trained in that field of course. If you are questioning what or why I am saying, then you do not want to weld to the vessel.

 

[Robert83GT]

Welding to a pressure vessel is a sure way to get yourself shamed on this forum. Unless you are trained in that field of course. If you are questioning what or why I am saying, then you do not want to weld to the vessel.

Lol, while I do weld auto body occasionally I would not personally weld this myself but have a shop weld it. I doubt my 110v flux core welder would be up to that job.

 

[Strouty]

That is a great answer!

 

[lakeroadster]

Lol, while I do weld auto body occasionally I would not personally weld this myself but have a shop weld it. I doubt my 110v flux core welder would be up to that job.

That is a great answer!

If the tank is an ASME stamped tank you'll find it to be an expensive repair if it is done correctly. Any repairs are required to be done by a qualified ASME Code shop that is certified to do repairs in accordance with the NBIC.

Required by whom? By the jurisdictional authorities in your state and / or city typically under the watchful eye of the State Fire Marshall. Looking for a qualified shop... check here: http://www.nationalboard.org/ManufacturerDirectory.aspx

I made a living designing ASME pressure vessels... lots of scary stuff out there being done, you don't want to be "that" guy and it sounds like you won't be, based on your questions and replies.

 

[manwithtools]

One question we have all failed to ask, how expensive of a compressor is this? If it costs more to fix than it's worth; then maybe now is the time to buy a bigger/better one.

I can see it's a portable, guessing maybe 30 gallons and 1 1/2 - 2hp? Might even be able to find one on Craigslist with a burnt up motor for reasonable money and use the tank to replace your troublesome one.

 

[Robert83GT]

One question we have all failed to ask, how expensive of a compressor is this? If it costs more to fix than it's worth; then maybe now is the time to buy a bigger/better one.

I can see it's a portable, guessing maybe 30 gallons and 1 1/2 - 2hp? Might even be able to find one on Craigslist with a burnt up motor for reasonable money and use the tank to replace your troublesome one.

This is a great point. I have always been looking for a reason to justify a new compressor. It's 29 gallons and 2hp. While it 'works' for what I need, it does not work nearly well enough. I paid $250 4 years ago.

I'm thinking of selling it with the leak and buying something better suited for my needs. Maybe. I didn't get a chance to try the Rector Seal yesterday but will give it a try tonight and kick around what to do next.

 

[gungatim]

since you are not actually welding the tank material, but the bung, you could just weld a bead around the hole, like plug welding, drill and re-tap properly. that is probably what I would do, else braze on a male ****** and add a connector to the ****** to put the drain valve back in.

BTW, are you sure the brass Tee is good quality and not the culprit here?

 

[Robert83GT]

Lady's and gentlement, Rector Seal and Teflon tape soapy water and I'm now leak free.

 

[lakeroadster]

since you are not actually welding the tank material, but the bung, you could just weld a bead around the hole, like plug welding, drill and re-tap properly. that is probably what I would do, else braze on a male ****** and add a connector to the ****** to put the drain valve back in.

This is an incorrect statement / assumption. The tank coupling is deemed a pressure containing part, and you cannot repair weld on a pressure part of an ASME stamped pressure vessel unless you are a shop certified to do so by the National Board of Boiler and Pressure Vessel Inspectors.

If it was a non pressure part, such as a motor bracket, you could weld to the bracket itself, but not repair weld where the bracket attaches to the vessel itself.

Lady's and gentlement, Rector Seal and Teflon tape soapy water and I'm now leak free.

Awesome