First post, just looking for some input on my table

[FULLSCALE302]

Been looking around here for a while, but never got around to posting until now.

Long story short, my wife who is a graphic designer has been helping someone who owns a plasma table how to use his computer programs to design things. She is being compensated by items cut on his table. Sounded like the perfect time to build the welding table I've always wanted...

I don't have a huge shop/garage. It's 14x38' inside so I'm limited in table width so I can still easily get a car in beside it to work around it. I decided to go with 30x74" for the new table, the same length as what I have but just a couple inches wider. The top will be 1/2" thick. 2-1/2" 1/4" wall square tubing for anywhere there is a receiver tube and 2" square tubing for the rest.

Unless someone convinces me otherwise, I'd like to go with 5/8" slots as that's the biggest clamping kit I can find locally in southern Ontario at a reasonable price (http://www.busybeetools.com/products/clamping-kit-1-2in-52-pcs.html).

Is there anything wrong with the design of my slots in the table? My thoughts are to use the right side for smaller jobs, and anything too long for that area can extend over and be clamped down on the left side. This way I'd still have a nice large smooth area in the middle as this will also serve as my regular work bench.

Any advice or input would be greatly appreciated!

 

[tarbellb]

Looks like a great start. Personally I would make the some changes.

I would use holes instead of slots, and cover the entire surface. I get what you are thinking with one side being a work area and the other the clamping. But not being able to clamp everywhere is really frustrating.

Second, I would consider upgrading to full locking casters (locks both the wheel and the plate rotation. Those floor locks you have modeled look like a PITA to adjust each time. And those full lock casters really are great.

Other then that, 1/4" wall is very beefie, almost overkill I think. Maybe save money, time, and labor and just use it for the receiver tubing but not the entire table?

Nice start, good luck.

 

[Divcod]

Been looking around here for a while, but never got around to posting until now.

Long story short, my wife who is a graphic designer has been helping someone who owns a plasma table how to use his computer programs to design things. She is being compensated by items cut on his table. Sounded like the perfect time to build the welding table I've always wanted...

I don't have a huge shop/garage. It's 14x38' inside so I'm limited in table width so I can still easily get a car in beside it to work around it. I decided to go with 30x74" for the new table, the same length as what I have but just a couple inches wider. The top will be 1/2" thick. 2-1/2" 1/4" wall square tubing for anywhere there is a receiver tube and 2" square tubing for the rest.

Unless someone convinces me otherwise, I'd like to go with 5/8" slots as that's the biggest clamping kit I can find locally in southern Ontario at a reasonable price (http://www.busybeetools.com/products/clamping-kit-1-2in-52-pcs.html).

Is there anything wrong with the design of my slots in the table? My thoughts are to use the right side for smaller jobs, and anything too long for that area can extend over and be clamped down on the left side. This way I'd still have a nice large smooth area in the middle as this will also serve as my regular work bench.

Any advice or input would be greatly appreciated!

I have limited space and would avoid adding holes and slots to the table as much as possible. Generally tack welds can be used for all of the one off fabrication projects, cut and grind down and you end up with a table that can be used for a multitude of needs. Exception would be if there was a need to mainly focus on setup of fab projects.

Design does look good.

 

[FULLSCALE302]

Thanks guys.

tarbellb, I did consider the holes at first but I will also be using the table for a bit of small engine work and other things where there is small hardware and parts so I want a smooth, solid area to do those things on. I'm not too concerned about the locks/levellers. My current table hasn't moved in almost 5 years, so it should pretty much be a set it and forget it situation. I already have some 4" 700lb wheels so I may as well use them! I do plan on only using the 1/4" wall for the receivers, the 2" tubing I have is 1/8".

Divcod, thanks for the input. I will have about 3' of solid area in the middle, I could probably just tack there if needed. Maybe I should just do the same smaller slots on the right side and have about a 4' solid area.

Anything else I should add? I will probably just all some rails along the side to hang some of my clamps and grinders.

 

[sberry]

I would make changes too. Skip all the holes and slots and drill one on the outside chance you really do and use common c clamps and vise grip 11R The rails under for clamps are good, a shelf under to toss stuff works.
As you pointed out this table will be multi purpose, dirt, small pieces all fall thru and any spill would fall thru to anything stored under it.
A catch can with a grate at the end works super and contains cut dross which really does make a mess.
There are some specialists all that make sense for as well as a collection of specialized clamps. I never found it that great, an edge overhang of 4 inches or so allows for most clamping just fine. The hole and slot idea is highly over rated and looks good as an idea, a year from now you will wonder why you bothered and,,,, if its something you decide you cant live without it can be done but a hole or 2 can be burned as really needed.

 

[sberry]

Second, get rid of all the support tube except for 2 pieces lengthways and tack a piece or 2 of tube for a vise, you don't need all that ****. I don't use tube anyway except for the legs and raise the shelf made from 4 pieces of simple angle.
The exact same result would be has with about a dozen pieces all straight cut and tacked in. Especially with a 1/2 plate which is super sturdy at this size. Would reduce the cost and fab time would be in the hours vs days.

 

[tarbellb]

Divcod makes a good point about tack and grind method. Personally id rather not each time but for limited use or preference its def a option.

I chose to go with slates and then cover the table with 1/2" HDF board for a solid work surface. HDF works well for me, but perhaps not for engine work?

sberry also has good input on the extra support pieces, you can likely remove most of it. The base could probably be just the 45 connecting into the longer span. As for the top, look into either notching for the RT or maybe even running the RT under or over the cross members. All those joints look like a lot of fab and potential squaring issues.

 

[Engine]

...and potential squaring issues.

That's a fact, for sure!

 

[FULLSCALE302]

Thanks for all the info everyone. I'm still leaning towards my slots though, I'm not really keen on the tack and grind off.

As for the squaring issues and extra fab time, I enjoy it and I'm not really in any rush!

 

[tarbellb]

How do you plan to attach the top.... warping issues if you plan on welding it.

 

[FULLSCALE302]

That's what I'm trying to figure out now, actually. I'm thinking of countersinking some bolts that attach to tabs on the top part of the frame. I think that way I could always shim it if needed.

My other thought was to weld small tabs onto the underside of the top itself and bolt them to the frame. I wouldn't be able to shim them the same way though.

 

[Thumper68]

Here's my advice, you can take it for what it is worth.

Your design looks great and should work for what you want. The biggest issue is that when you ask for input here you get so many conflicting opinions that you can get stalled out.

Go ahead and build it the way that you want and show the pictures after you are done. It's your table and you are the one who is going to have to live and work with it. Build it the way you want.

 

[aczr2k]

Drop the receiver tubing down, you don't want that directly underneath the top, every time you want to clamp something you will run into one. I don't know why you would want that many receiver tubes anyways, what are you going to mount in all of them. With all those cuts and welds in the top frame it will never be flat. 3/16 wall tubing is plenty strong, no need for 1/4.

Also make sure you leave a nice 3" or so overhang. I'd take those down rigger things off as well, looks like something to trip over and constantly walking into.

Slots or holes that's your choice.

 

[sberry]

My own benches are a cobble job I got for free but I built a lot of them and worked on dozens over the years and rarely needed a special feature I see dreamed up from the forums.
I built over 200 for an assembly plant at one time. Limit the welds to a couple inches a foot and it wont warp the plate, they don't need to be gorrillas

 

[MegaManny009]

I think its unique, everyone builds them to there own specs. I would use the tubing to insert vise or grinder attachments to limit the space of those as well

 

[fast85pony]

Nice design. As Thumper68 said, build what you want and enjoy the process. You didn't say that you were using receiver-specific tubing, but you probably know that 2" tube won't nest with standard 2 1/2" x 1/4" wall welded tube, as the weld bead interferes. I wasn't able to source long sections of receiver tube, so made do with 2 1/2" x 3/16" wall. With 1/2" set screws in welded on nuts it seems to work ok. Have fun with your project.

 

[sberry]

The clamp along the edge feature is the big one. Especially for metal fab. I like 1/2 plate as good or better than thicker. It's a lot easier to fab or drill a hole or cut with a plasma. Second it closer to the thickness of materials we work with and makes the clamping adjustments similar

 

[getsnowremoval]

Make use of holes than slots. But, this does not mean that you abolish all slot ideas altogether just more on holes.

Regards,
Pascual