First Saw, Circular or Table?
- Thread starter Zinfandel
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hefnerconstructionlc
Well-known member
Sorry but if you’re serious about production work either one of those is going to need a cord. I have all kinds a battery tools and they won’t cut it for that type of work. Unfortunately you’re still going to have to drag out the extension cord. If you only had one saw the circular saw is the way to go. Use your speed square in one hand and circular saw in the other for a nice clean-cut. Mitersaw for finish trim work. Tablesaw for multiple repeat cuts. figure out what jobs you are taking on and that will you what to what to buy.
ARFLY
Well-known member
I would start with the circular saw. Unless you are working on new construction sites that don't yet have power hooked up, l would skip the cordless saw. I use a Porter Cable with magnesium plate, much better than the stamped steel plate. A good circular saw with an assortment of good blades is a must. A sliding compound miter saw, to me, is a must have coming in a close second to the circular saw.
Mr Ratchet
Well-known member
For a first saw I would get a circular saw first by far. Make it a corded one and a right hand blade if you are right handed/ left side blade if you are a lefty. If you need more precise cuts, get some Bora clamps. I've cut with about a dozen or so different circular saws and I find the Milwaukee tilt-Lok to be the best. It has a lot of power but, is fairly light. Mines cut miles of board feet and keeps on ripping. I also have a Milwaukee 8 1/4" worm drive saw. It has tons of power but so is its weight. Bosch, Hitachi, and Makita all make good circular saws too.
jives
Well-known member
Okay, perhaps too late on this, but without question the circ saw is the first choice. Battery or corded, just make sure it has a solid baseplate and quality depth and angle adjustments. Buy a Kreig track and baseplate sled and you are way ahead of the game.
$400 for a lightweight battery powered table saw seems like a massive waste of money. For $400 I could by a used 120V table saw with a heavy cast iron top and a quality fence and run the thing for 20 more years.
$400 for a lightweight battery powered table saw seems like a massive waste of money. For $400 I could by a used 120V table saw with a heavy cast iron top and a quality fence and run the thing for 20 more years.
bigdav160
Well-known member
Enjoy!
jgromada
Well-known member
I too would pass on all cordless tools, much extra expense and you have to ask yourself if it is really necessary. Will you really be away from AC power?
As for a choice between table saw and circular saw the real answer is BOTH! You have to assess if you will need to do mostly ripping and then your table saw comes first or if its all cutoff buy the circular saw first.
That was kind of the order i got mine, although i have like 4 circular saws now, an ancient B&D, a magnesium body Skilsaw, a worm drive Skilsaw and a newer Craftsman w latest bells & Whistles (lasers). They all have advantages and its nice to have a saw set up to do nothing but laminate flooring for instance. I like the Kreg saw attachments as well.
I also have an old Rockwell table saw (1970s vintage) but it works quite well but takes an odd 9" blade.
The other thing you should consider getting is a Miter saw, mine is Ridgid and i love it. Use that more than my table saw.
As for a choice between table saw and circular saw the real answer is BOTH! You have to assess if you will need to do mostly ripping and then your table saw comes first or if its all cutoff buy the circular saw first.
That was kind of the order i got mine, although i have like 4 circular saws now, an ancient B&D, a magnesium body Skilsaw, a worm drive Skilsaw and a newer Craftsman w latest bells & Whistles (lasers). They all have advantages and its nice to have a saw set up to do nothing but laminate flooring for instance. I like the Kreg saw attachments as well.
I also have an old Rockwell table saw (1970s vintage) but it works quite well but takes an odd 9" blade.
The other thing you should consider getting is a Miter saw, mine is Ridgid and i love it. Use that more than my table saw.
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Crazyjake8493
Well-known member
I see a lot of recommendations for miter saws, but unless you're building a lot of decks or cutting crown moulding, I would pass and put that money toward a quality table saw instead. A good circular saw can do everything a miter saw can, and a good table saw will be far more valuable.
Moparman390
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First get a corded circular saw. Circular saws are the most commonly used saws. Corded have more power and cost less. The route I see to go is get a corded 7 1/4" one first then a battery 6 1/2" one for where portability is key. Both circular and table saws (along with miter, band, etc.) are saws you will likely use in a workspace you set up for cutting wood on your project where you will likely have power. Adding that battery powered circular saw like I mentioned is a good next step. I can only see value in making all your big saws like these battery powered is if you know you will be at many jobsites with absolutely no source of AC power. Also, I would recommend getting a miter saw before the table saw, miter saws are my favorite. Upshot: Miter and Table, almost always corded, circular, corded first, cordless later.
Moparman390
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Miter saws are just so quick and easy to use for cuts, that's why everybody loves them.
I LOVE mine.
Since I got it, my circular saw has been gathering dust.
It's also cordless, for all the haters.
RAS61
Well-known member
And more accurate! You can only do rough framing with a C-saw, you can do that better with a miter PLUS finish work. The OP bought a C-saw, which is an essential that he needs anyway, I'd recommend a power miter as his next purchase - I think he'll then find the C-saw rarely gets used, probably just for sheet goods.
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Crazyjake8493
Well-known member
They're quick and easy but they really only serve one function, and that function can be easily done with a circular saw for rough cuts, or a table saw for finish work.
Again, if you're cutting 14' deck boards or 10' crown moulding, a miter saw makes more sense.
If I were to buy a miter saw, I'd probably get one of the 7-1/4" cordless models, and put it up on a shelf when I'm done with it.
ryan20021982
Well-known member
Get a corded circular saw, there are tons of tricks to rip thin pieces and to make multiple uniform cuts. For what you want to do a circular saw will do it just fine.
Rarified27
Well-known member
I don't suppose I'll help anyone make a decision, but can offer yet another perspective.
A circular saw was my starting point, then a 10" miter saw (yup, miters only, no bevel), then I went for broke with a 12" sliding compound miter saw.
To do it again, I'd want a cordless, but full size circular, 10" sliding compound miter and a table saw, likely in this order.
A lot of my work involves quick cuts somewhere without an outlet, so the cordless circular would have to be first.
A circular saw was my starting point, then a 10" miter saw (yup, miters only, no bevel), then I went for broke with a 12" sliding compound miter saw.
To do it again, I'd want a cordless, but full size circular, 10" sliding compound miter and a table saw, likely in this order.
A lot of my work involves quick cuts somewhere without an outlet, so the cordless circular would have to be first.
Ole Slewfoot
Well-known member
I thought they were for people who can't follow a pencil line
I thought they were for people who can't follow a pencil line
LG, sitting in the back of the class, raises his hand.
lg
no neat sig line
Two Door
Well-known member
I thought they were for people who can't follow a pencil line
Or use a speed square, or, OMG, just cut straight freehanded...
I can't imagine how taking a board to a stationary saw is more convenient than taking a relatively smaller saw to the work.
This whole inability to use a circular saw meme reminds me of the youngsters that make a big deal out of learning to drive a standard. What happened to the ability to develop some basic skills?
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ptgarcia
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ez-duzit
Well-known member
Start with a corded sidewinder circular saw (battery operated BLOWS). My most used is a 5-1/2" Skilsaw.
Next get a really good table saw. Then a track saw.
Next get a really good table saw. Then a track saw.
Two Door
Well-known member
If you are using pencil lines for your crown moulding cuts, than YOU'RE the man. But yes, I think I could do base boards with a circular saw.
I have a miter saw, mainly for window trimming. And, since I have one, I would use it for baseboards. But I don't get the position that it is more convenient for making non-beveled, ninety degree cuts in rough construction.
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Sal Bandini
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Agreed. I too don't get this miter saw crutch many here have for framing. Everyone wants 12" compound bevel, but then, this is GJ.
Mr Ratchet
Well-known member
The speed square works great for fast and accurate straight cross cuts. Lots of people can't cut straight with a circular saw. I see a lot of cuts that look like a snakes ***. A good saw with a good shoe makes a lot of difference to help cut straight.
A compound miter saw is invaluable for trim work though.
bcradio
Well-known member
fowldarr
Well-known member
If you have it narrowed down to those options, get the circular saw. But ultimately it depends on what you're going to be doing. If your mainly cutting sheet goods the table saw may be the better choice, for taking some material off of a 2x, circular saw, hands down.
Personally, I have an old Ryobi circular saw (from the blue days), corded, that has never let me down. I have an old craftsman table saw (two actually, but that's another story) it is also corded of course, and it works great, but I wouldn't want to haul it around much, and I have a cheap harbor freight 12" compound sliding miter saw, also corded.
The miter saw will be the first to get replaced with a higher quality tool. It works fine for now, but the quality is starting to show (can't beat the price though)
My last two cents, don't feel like you have to be the guy that has the newest and best tools on the jobsite. Buy stuff that you can afford and works. For your budget of $400 and some smart shopping and willingness to buy used, you could have both tools and a possibly a miter saw.
Personally, I have an old Ryobi circular saw (from the blue days), corded, that has never let me down. I have an old craftsman table saw (two actually, but that's another story) it is also corded of course, and it works great, but I wouldn't want to haul it around much, and I have a cheap harbor freight 12" compound sliding miter saw, also corded.
The miter saw will be the first to get replaced with a higher quality tool. It works fine for now, but the quality is starting to show (can't beat the price though)
My last two cents, don't feel like you have to be the guy that has the newest and best tools on the jobsite. Buy stuff that you can afford and works. For your budget of $400 and some smart shopping and willingness to buy used, you could have both tools and a possibly a miter saw.
mschoonmaker
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Circular saw with a sliding track for crosscut OR ripping. Join the tracks together for longer rips.
Moparman390
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It all depends on what you are doing and if it's in the workspace you have for cutting or if you need to take the saw to the work. There's a place for both.
Cutting, say 250 studs to precisely the same length is a little easier and a LOT faster on a stationary tool than with a circular saw.
Still circular saw first tho.
davethorik
Well-known member
Yes. Today, used my Milwaukee 6365 circ saw to trim a couple doors about 1/2. Measured 1/2 off the bottom, marked a line, taped it with masking tape, and cut freehand. Had a couple levels (2' and 4') but no clamps to hold them down as a straight edge. Took my time and got nice, straight cuts.
I've done this on a table saw, if i have a helper to hold outboard. Today it was just me.
I used to use my worm drive framing saw for fence work. Then, a. Buddy of mine suggested using a really small 12 in gas powered chain saw by echo. Because it is echo, starts on first pull every time. Because it is gas, it is cordless. Used to make a pencil line and use a speed square with the framing saw, now I just use a 16 d nail to scratch a line in the wood , then one pull and hit it with the top bar tosses shavings away from you. Like several of the others on here, too have found that a really good circular saw with a ripping guide, and a speed square can be taken to the job and you can rip down lumber lengthways and really, you can make precision angle bevel cuts too. Get a really good saw, not a craftsman, not hf get a dewalt makita and worm saws turn slower, are quieter and just seem to be more sane. Make sure it has really nice levers for quick adjustments of bevel and angle. Learn how ( read up) to properly use the saw before ever using, and practice unplugging it before adjusting your saw. If there is such a thing as a cordless framing saw then , sure, get it , but keep in mind that a cheap 2500 generator is plenty handy to have around and paired with a corded dewalt will last and give you far less trouble over the years than any cordless ( think expensive) tool. If you are making cabinets or doing trim work then you just have to have a mitre or table saw because those are the correct tools for those jobs.
What he says, plus I am space limited so I can't really keep a tablesaw around between uses.
RAS61
Well-known member
I find a power miter easier, faster and more accurate for rough cutting and framing - easier to see the cut line, and easy to install a stop for multiple cuts. If a speed square works better for you - more power!
