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First time arc welding

geologist

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Dec 14, 2011
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Be prepared for crappy welds. Today, I mainly practiced striking and maintaining an arc, and starting to get a feel for where I needed to keep the rod.

The Setup:

75 amps, electrode+
mode = cc stick soft
arc control = 0, arc start = 3
6010 rods, 1/2" plate

https://scontent-b-ord.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t1.0-9/10462649_756198086970_2577882387028260067_n.jpg



The Station:

10418288_756198111920_230227864827021067_n.jpg


10478108_756198146850_6184476267919850943_n.jpg




The Welds:

Best weld of the day (left) worst weld (right). I stuck the stick on the right weld and it caught fire. I went ahead and used the weld for stopping and starting. It's lumpy as hell. I know the arc length was too long on the right-hand weld.

https://scontent-b-ord.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/10435942_756197108930_8882964280749888522_n.jpg



The Welder:

Too ashamed to show my face....

10455344_756196814520_6462694764562220028_n.jpg


Just kidding -- real men aren't afraid to show their ****** welds and ask others what they've done wrong.

10456463_756196589970_1855549041653776420_n.jpg




Final Thoughts:

We cut the plate with an oil cooled bandsaw, and just wiped it off with a paper towel. Today was an exercise in getting comfortable striking an arc and familiarizing ones self with SMAW. I suspect the poor welds are a result of (in order, starting with the biggest contributing factor):

1.) a noob welder
2.) arc length and travel speed
3.) dirty metal / residue

Thoughts?
 
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A_Pmech

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Not bad at all for first beads. The heat is a little low, but a lower heat will help you develop rod and puddle control.

Follow the instructor and practice, practice, practice! :)
 

Tucko

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Remember DASH: Distance, Angle, Speed, Heat. Practice, practice, practice...
You're off to a good start.
 

Ozwelder

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I suspect the poor welds are a result of (in order, starting with the biggest contributing factor):

1.) a noob welder
2.) arc length and travel speed
3.) dirty metal / residue

Thoughts?

Gidday Geologist,
Well you are better prepared than many others with a decent machine to start off with.

Don’t fret too much about the bead .It not real bad for a beginner.

Can I suggest you place those 6010,s aside for the time being. They are not conducive to helping a new welder get up to speed in running an arc.

As an ex welding instructor for way too many years, can I recommend some 6012'2s or even 6013's to practice with until you become more familiar with the electrode arc ?.

Firstly the object of the exercise is to get you running straight, even width, even height, parallel beads with out any weld defects present in them.

To be able to do that, it is all about consistency. Initially consistency means
a consistent arc length, a consistent travel speed and a consistent electrode drag angle.
These are the main things that can make and break / affect your ability to weld.

Certainly amp setting and choosing the most suitable electrodes for the job do play a part. They all work together while you produce your welding bead and when you can master them ,it is pretty easy from there on.

We will assume that the electrode and amps are fine to start and work from that time you are ready to strike the arc .You are correct in thinking about the cleanliness of the plate .

It is important at the point the earth connection is attached well and where the arc itself will travel over. The earth connection of your welding circuit is as important as the ground connection on your car battery.

You know what can happen there if it is neglected car battery connection and in the same way the earth /welding connection has to be efficient to pass on an effective welding current.

A weld being deposited should not be contaminated by a poor surface condition ,so it is always wise to clean it off.

In essence , a weldor performs several actions at one time while a weld is laid down.
He strikes the arc and maintains it, keeping all those above variables the same.

The following helps form a mental checklist to keep the above points in mind.

Start with the electrode last and work backwards.

S.A.V.A.G.E.

Speed of travel Fast enough to give a bead approx a ¼” wide
Angle of drag Between 0 and 30 degrees
Voltage This is affected by your arc length 1/8” which is electrode wire diameter
Amperage As recommended for electrode say 115-125 though it varies with inverter settings
Gauge 10 Gauge for ½” plate
Electrode In this case 6012/ 6013

The above is a guide only and as you improve, I recommend changing only one element at a time so you are able see a cause and effect.Its a good idea to keep notes on on settings at the start.

After 20 or so hours you should be able to see a great difference.
Good luck mate. We all would love to see more pics as you progress.

Oz
 

RedneckWelder

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For 6010 the little bit of oil residue/crud won't matter as much. It'll burn through fairly well. You'll want to clean it off as a matter of "best practice" but for learning or whatever it won't make as much difference.

Are you whipping it or straight dragging it? 6010 is a deep penetration, fast freeze rod and responds well to whip and pause, while 7018 responds well to dragging.

6010 is not the easiest rod to run, but if you get good with it it is a good versatile rod due to it's qualities.

 
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geologist

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75 amps is kinda low for 1/2" plate...

My hands were tied on that part. That's where the instructor wanted it. I think I would have rather ran it at 85 or 90 amps.

Gidday Geologist,

Can I suggest you place those 6010,s aside for the time being. They are not conducive to helping a new welder get up to speed in running an arc.

Oz

6010 is all I was given access to today. There were a bunch of guys testing 6g today, so the instructor was running around like a chicken with his head cut off most of the day trying to multi-task.

Are you whipping it or straight dragging it? 6010 is a deep penetration, fast freeze rod and responds well to whip and pause, while 7018 responds well to dragging.

I tried whipping forward and coming halfway back, and I tried making "e" or "l". I had more consistency going forward and backward. Other than the somewhat oily plate, I was contending with a wire brush that wasn't all that great (it kept shedding bristles and wouldn't take off the brownish garb the chipping hammer couldn't remove), so I'll probably be bringing in my own.

Onward...

My neighbor is one of the instructors, so I'll be trying to work with him instead of this other guy. :rocker:
 
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Ozwelder

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6010 is not the easiest rod to run, but if you get good with it it is a good versatile rod due to it's qualities.

I agree with the above but!
Because the 6010 is not the easiest rod to run is the very reason I suggest the rutile based electrodes. Most of the hundreds of students I have trained responded better to some measure of success at an early stage in their training.

The intention is to help make the process of learning easier and faster for a beginner welder.

Early success promotes confidence in the process. I believe that using electrodes with a softer arc allow the student to better observe the arc puddle and placement of the arc .The other factor is that cellulose rods make more smoke and sparks interfering more with the student concentration and comfort.

The initial welding experience of coordinating the flip down of the helmet and striking the arc successfully is stressful enough in its own right with out furthermore complicating it any more than is necessary.

Many of us will recall the problems we have had with cellulose rods that don't strike but stick to the plate. That should not be imposed on a new learner.

It is the visual appeal of an attractive weld bead successfully deposited along with a rooster tail of rising slag cover that did not require chipping that does wonders for a newby’s confidence. That is what encourages the guys to stick with it.

Not trying to start an argument about fire sticks or anything, but merely offering a different perspective.

Sincerely
Oz
 

Engine

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For first time SMAW (aka "stick welding") you are doing very well. As you mentioned, classes usually start with the very basics which would be simply striking and maintaining an arc. That is very difficult for a lot of people who have never welded and it takes them some time to master. It's easy to forget how hard these basics are for beginners, especially after you have been welding for a long time. When I started welding they started us out using 6010 too and I remember it being hard as hell for me to keep from sticking the rod and my weld beads looked more like a string of pearls than a weld. You are obviously well past that point now.

Ozweld gives you some very good advice. Especially "the object of the exercise is to get you running straight, even width, even height, parallel beads with out any weld defects present in them." Focus on that for now and the rest will become more valuable as you keep improving your skills.
 

Engine

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...Early success promotes confidence in the process. I believe that using electrodes with a softer arc allow the student to better observe the arc puddle and placement of the arc .The other factor is that cellulose rods make more smoke and sparks interfering more with the student concentration and comfort.

I agree with that... but when I was learning they seemed to have the opposite philosophy. Start 'em off with the hardest stuff first and then move on to the easier methods. Frustration and irritation was not hard to find in that class, let me tell you.:eyecrazy:
 

Ozwelder

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My hands were tied on that part. That's where the instructor wanted it. I think I would have rather ran it at 85 or 90 amps.



6010 is all I was given access to today. There were a bunch of guys testing 6g today, so the instructor was running around like a chicken with his head cut off most of the day trying to multi-task.



I tried whipping forward and coming halfway back, and I tried making "e" or "l". I had more consistency going forward and backward. Other than the somewhat oily plate, I was contending with a wire brush that wasn't all that great (it kept shedding bristles and wouldn't take off the brownish garb the chipping hammer couldn't remove), so I'll probably be bringing in my own.

Onward...

My neighbor is one of the instructors, so I'll be trying to work with him instead of this other guy. :rocker:
Ok If you are committed to 6010s at the moment so be it.
Has the instructor mentioned position and comfort.
I have walked into classes and found them welding with out bending the electrode (when using a screw up type electrode holder) this meant elbows in the air and not much chance of controlling the electrode.

Basically its hands in as close to the body as possible,with the non holder hand supporting either the electrode holder or on the electrode itself.(as in tee fillet welding).

The other trick is not take the weight of the whole of the welding cable. All you need is just enough to manipulate the the electrode. If possible hook it up to have the hook( electrode bent into an S bend) take most of the weight.

Your main focus should be smooth your electrode manipulations so they are identical time after time while keeping arc length,drag angle consistent.

May I ask how many in a class? Down here it was 14 students.

Cheers

Oz
 
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geologist

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May I ask how many in a class? Down here it was 14 students.

Cheers

Oz

I'm one of 13 first-year apprentices. Today was an opportunity to pick up some arc time, so I jumped on it. There were 2 others from my group, and 2 more advanced apprentices. There were 5 guys testing -- 4 of them were welding 6G (one of those was a welding student somewhere else, trying to pass a test with the UA), one was doing TIG on stainless.
 

Ozwelder

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Fantastic,
It is good to see the trade is continuing.What are designated as ,a welder,boilermaker, metalfaber?

Is it a four year apprenticeship or how do you do it in the US.?
 
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geologist

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Fantastic,
It is good to see the trade is continuing.What are designated as ,a welder,boilermaker, metalfaber?

Is it a four year apprenticeship or how do you do it in the US.?

Pipefitter, but I'll be pipe welding and eventually doing industrial instrumentation. It's a 5 year apprenticeship. You apply, take testing, possibly earn an interview, then go through drug testing if you advance past the interview. The interview consists of the business manager of the local hall, two other elected representatives, and representatives from 3 major contractors.

Full scale is $31.05 / hour minimum. The benefits package pushes it above $53 an hour. Those specializing in welding are earning more.
 
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