First time running copper air lines: couple questions

[anythingyoucanimagine]

Looking to run some quick & dirty copper hard lines for air. Ideally I'd like to get it done today. I've got a bunch of M leftover from heating stuff over the years. It'll be a 30 gal craftsman single stage so M will be fine and don't need to worry about paint.


Are those bell fasteners (pic attached) fine to use? Do I want to wrap some electrical tape or maybe a strip of window flashing tape around the copper at each fitting? Or just run it and it'll be fine?


I know to use a flex line and understand slope, drains, drains at drops, etc. Really wondering how to get it started at the compressor. I think I have enough pipe and fittings to do everything 1" and drops 3/4.


How much 1" do I want to leave below where the compressor hooks in? The 1" runs are probably going to be 55-60 feet, plus the 3/4 drops on top of that. How much water should I expect to see in the system and at the drops vs. in the tank?


I read a bunch about coolers between compressor and tank, etc. Just looked, it's actually a 26-gal vertical, not 30-gal. I'm looking for a better (and quieter) 2-stage and I'd like to keep this pretty portable so not really worried about outlet temps at compressor vs. going into tank, etc. I think that by adding the copper lines throughout the garage it'll give the air an opportunity to cool down pretty close to ambient and that should be fine. Should I worry about water?


Do I want to do a loop? It'll 99.9% always be just me (one tool). I have enough pipe to do a 1" loop around the garage but I feel like that's going to complicate things. (slopes and also dealing with a chimney on one wall)

Anything else I should know?


I mentioned in another post that I bought several Craftsman single stage compressors when my local Sears closed. Most of them had broken motor shafts so it was a "lot purchase" for several machines, cheap. They are probably the cheapest, crappiest regulators in the world --any problem using them at drops? Would mean comp stays as-is, then do I want a regulator at the copper above where compressor ties in or just at each drop? Do I crank the compressor to max going forward?


I think that's it. Thanks.

 

[sberry]

If the inch is free use it but its 2 sizes bigger than needed. You can make drops inch, no law against that either. The only reason for loops,,, or main reason they are used is long factory runs, really designed for places where there is use beyond and moisture is driven along till there is a place for it to drop.
Its good op paper, its good in the right app but everything one sees in a GM plant doesn't apply at home. Here you want air going one way, slope slightly away and down so any drops go down the line to a leg or a filter, I don't even have real drip legs on some of mine, they terminate in the filter.

 

[sberry]

If you have a simple system, small building as always put a valve on the comp before the flex line. A single valve can be the disconnect for the whole system. My shop is bigger, 80 ft across with 3 zones, there is a valve on the hard line ahead of any equipment or hoses. Lets it have local disconnect and leaves the rest of the place air up in the event we want to work on something or in a couple places I have them off till needed as there are reels and hoses on, much of it very old.
This one is fed from another reg but is for paint area and blowing the occasional tire. I leave it off until I need it

 

[anythingyoucanimagine]

Thanks sberry. Yes this is a very small/simple system in 25x25 2-car attached. There's probably no reason to be running hard lines in this garage.

But...
* I have the pipe (and fittings). So it's "free". We are moving this summer and the copper isn't coming with us. "use it or scrap it"

* I'm sick and tired of dragging around a crappy big-box orange hose that twists and binds around tools/corners.

* Before I bought battery nail guns, the dogs became scared of the "orange hose"... 4-legged fools are good at making associations. Local air drops means different color hoses and they aren't scared of stuff like pneumatic sanders. Now they just sit there and look confused when I surprise them with the battery guns

* We are currently building with the plan that when we move her dad will downsize and move here. I wouldn't be doing any of this if it wasn't a forever/long-term home.


I want one drop on each wall. One at the front between the two doors, one by the workbench at the back then one on either side wall. Easy...

 

[ford33]

I think you got it covered. The 1" is overkill but if you got it then use it. Keep your system simple and solder the joints well. I would add a connection for a hose reel in the ceiling or wall. With a small shop you only need one filter/regulator to control the whole system with the compressor set at your designed higher pressure. No need for multiple filter/regulators. Let chance of leaks and less cost. And like SBerry stated, add valves to isolate the system at beginning and end.

My simple copper tube air system is installed about 5 years and I have had no issues.

Good luck.

 

[Stuart in MN]

I think the bell fasteners will work fine. Since there will be a flex line at the compressor, vibration or movement in the copper lines should be at a minimum. You could wrap a strip of rubber around the pipe at each fastener for good measure if you want, but I don't think it's necessary.

 

[sberry]

I could get this with 2 hose reels.2 well placed is worth several you got to move hose to. You might even be able to xix a hose in a spot without reel. Screw them to the system, the only connectors needed are at the tool end, you don't want or need to move sections of hose and its just more fittings. Lots of guys with this size of garage manage very well with 1 reel.
There isn't the parasitic use like electric, most is one tool at a time or can plumb to a cab or plasma. I don't move any hose, it all has coverage from reel or whip. I try to design with factory lengths, not a requirement but simple.
Last one turns so it serves outside on the apron in nice weather, reaches out on the floor inside.

 

[anythingyoucanimagine]

I figured out a way to simplify and use less pipe (two overhead reels + one on wall by comp) I'm going to run the 1" up & across the collar ties (by peak of roof). Up there it's cleaner, looks nicer... and because when I burn the **** out of the drywall sweating fittings the farther away it is the easier it'll be to paint and hide my sins.

Sanity check: 1/8 over 5 feet is enough?

 

[sberry]

Sure, just enough it wont run back. Any air movement will blow liquid along. If I had enough 3/4 it would be my choice over the inch. A smaller pipe increases the velocity a little. In this app even a 3/8 air hose would work. If I am piping and have the option I use 1/2 pipe where it applies, less steps for the final, speeds the air up some.
There are not code rules for sizes for a garage like this but, 1 reel may suffice, a reel and a drop where convenient, 2 reels covers 1200 sq ft pretty easy and an additional for every 1000 sq ft. This is obviously generalization and normally with 50 ft reels. Reels on the wall I am fine with manual and if they are overhead then retractors are needed, or for concealed.

 

[PoorOwner]

But...
* I have the pipe (and fittings). So it's "free". We are moving this summer and the copper isn't coming with us. "use it or scrap it"

You should take it with you, it would be like leaving gold behind.

Moving in summer? Aren't we already spring?

I have cut all of it out and I was able to reuse all of it with very little waste, just a few inches off 10 foot sections, minus elbows etc, and some of the already soldiered joints I have reused as well.

 

[anythingyoucanimagine]

Moving in summer? Aren't we already spring

Not sure you read the whole post:

* We are currently building with the plan that when we move her dad will downsize and move here. I wouldn't be doing any of this if it wasn't a forever/long-term home.

I'm doing a lot of this work with him in mind...

 

[kbs2244]

2 things:

1 Take the copper with you. You will have a need for it and it will add zero to the re-sell value of your current house.

2 Dogs don't see color.

 

[PoorOwner]

ok to answer your question you are likely need both kinds of mounts, the bell is to offset it so a union or valves can be used, and the strap just whenever you have it flush with the wall. Straps normally don't work if the stud is not running parallel to it.
Of course, you can just add a piece of wood block and use strap as well.

 

[rburke65]

I see no problem using those parts.

 

[sberry]

It's what they are made for.

 

[tarmy]

I used the bells...makes mounting other things easier too...

 

[maxpat82]

My previous garage was 22x26 and i only had a 40’ reel and it was wat more then needed. The only tubing was to go from the compressor to the reel on the 9’ ceilling 1/2” copper to a 1/4” hose in the reel

Take the time to make another project instead of installing a 50time overkill setup