OP
It looks that way, I wasn't trying to remove the paint. Any issues?
First try at electrolysis
- Thread starter 930dreamer
- Start date
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Pretty sure you are now leaching heavy metals (Zinc) into your electrolyte. Electrolysis should only be used like metal to like metal. Galvanize is a plating process, and deposits metal, not paint.
In general electrolysis will remove most if not all paints. (I just did a vise with a god awful thick repaint job on it, and the paint sheeted off in a couple of complete sheets for the flat surfaces)
In general electrolysis will remove most if not all paints. (I just did a vise with a god awful thick repaint job on it, and the paint sheeted off in a couple of complete sheets for the flat surfaces)
OP
Will I live?
saundersdiesel
Active member
No ill take all your tools.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I doubt you are in immediate danger, but I'd stay away from the fumes and don't dump the solution in your garden... I think you need to do some Google research on this...
OP
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
Tank is looking good, 930dreamer! Thanks for the videos!
OP
The tank removed 99% of the outside paint, I used a brass wheel and got the rest. All the metal tubes are clear, just need to top coat. I haven't been home in two weeks so again, it's on hold for now.
GarageEnvy
Well-known member
I'm about ready to give this a shot on some hossfeld bender dies. I've got a few questions.
1) Is there any harm in doing this with cast? I wouldn't see how but it's worth asking.
2) Is there a certain ratio of baking soda to water?
3) Can I wire several small parts together or do I need to do each part individually. Every demo I've seen is with only one part.
1) Is there any harm in doing this with cast? I wouldn't see how but it's worth asking.
2) Is there a certain ratio of baking soda to water?
3) Can I wire several small parts together or do I need to do each part individually. Every demo I've seen is with only one part.
Al Bundy
Well-known member
I don't know what the heck is going on in this thread. I thought this was going to help me remove the hair from my wife's upper lip. 
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Steven67fr
Well-known member
Just curious if you have an electrical explaination as to why less is more? Im my limited understanting this reaction is caused by the current passing through the electrolyte and pulling positively charged particles towards the negatively charged anodes... Ergo, the more current the more rapidly this decomposition of water occurs as more ions are passed from part to anode. It seems the only potential negative to using more current is that it could possible strip the part of deeper set materials.
In my experimentation 50 amps of power cleans far far more quickly than 2 amps of current. If you start with a clear clean bucket you can visibly see the 50 amp current cleaning more rapidly than 2or 10 amps.
Any thoughts? My knowledge in the electrical/ chemical areas are fairly low compared to my knowledge in the mechanical/biological areas... That's my disclaimer
StevenFl.
In my experimentation 50 amps of power cleans far far more quickly than 2 amps of current. If you start with a clear clean bucket you can visibly see the 50 amp current cleaning more rapidly than 2or 10 amps.
Any thoughts? My knowledge in the electrical/ chemical areas are fairly low compared to my knowledge in the mechanical/biological areas... That's my disclaimer
StevenFl.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I'm assuming you aimed that question at me.
I'm basing that comment on what I've seen the professional artifact recovery people doing. They of course are dealing with iron, bronze or brass cannon for instance, and are removing huge thick layers of crud. after a couple of hundred years of being under the sea. Ive also seen examples of coins that came up corroded into a mass and after the treatment they looked damn near new.
My understanding is they are attempting to reconstitute as much of the original metal as possible. to do this the go at it very slowly, and speed is not of the essence. Yes, you can apply more power and get it done faster. The resulting reconstituted metal as I understand it winds up flaking off, and you get thicker layers of the black whatever it is that is left.
The slower I've gone, the less of that black stuff I have seen, and what there is of it cleans off easier in my experience. I don't mind letting the thing run for 6 to 8 hours, if the results are good, who cares?
Steven67fr
Well-known member
outlaw, yup the ? Was for you... I forgot to quote... Sory. Glad you picked up on it. I see what your saying and see how there coul be a benefit foor super slow cleaning on somet gj ing super corroded. THough most of what I clean is not severely cancerous. Thanks for the input!
StevenFl.
StevenFl.
Garage5.9
Well-known member
Haven't tried electrolysis yet but i did just try straight white vinegar on some rusty tools i had sitting in the yard for awhile. Let the punch and screw driver sit for about a week and watched it bubble and slow disolve all the rust away down to clean metal. Just wire wheeled them after and lightly oiled them and they are pretty much like new.
metal1313
Well-known member
sorry to bring this back but can you guys recommend a cheap battery charger for this? the one i have is being a pain in the *** since its "smart" and goes into a limp type mode and doesnt really put out any current.
i have a ton of stuff to do, and ive set up a decent sized tub only to have the charger not work. so does anyone recommend a cheap power supply?? its gonna be dedicated to electrolysis
i have a ton of stuff to do, and ive set up a decent sized tub only to have the charger not work. so does anyone recommend a cheap power supply?? its gonna be dedicated to electrolysis
OP
Just look for a cheap battery charger at a garage sale or CL.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Just make sure it's heavy, (indicating it has a real transformer, instead of switching power supply Semiconductor junk)
metal1313
Well-known member
hmm i dont get to hit many garage sales, and craigslist is iffy when i actually need something.
anyone know of any current models i could buy? or would something like http://www.buy.com/prod/pyramid-gol...c-power-supply-pyramid-gold-ps/206160991.html work?
anyone know of any current models i could buy? or would something like http://www.buy.com/prod/pyramid-gol...c-power-supply-pyramid-gold-ps/206160991.html work?
OP
That will work, but you don't need 10 Amps.
Sears.com
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_12605?keyword=battery+chargers
Last edited:
metal1313
Well-known member
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM702571801P?prdNo=7&blockNo=7&blockType=G7#reviewsWrap
that seem good...the one i have is one of their microprocessor ones, i got it onsale a few years back for 20bucks, down from 100, i never knew it was that price so now i feel better about it haha
that seem good...the one i have is one of their microprocessor ones, i got it onsale a few years back for 20bucks, down from 100, i never knew it was that price so now i feel better about it haha
johnnybentwrench
Well-known member
I am trying this for the first time right now . I have four gallons of water , four table spoons of baking soda( will baking soda work?) I have a 12 volt charger with the positve connected to a plate of steel and the negative on the tool. I do not see bubbles or anything happening??
Will this work with baking soda?
Will this work with baking soda?
OP
It will, the first batch I used baking soda. Ensure the wires attach to clean metal.
johnnybentwrench
Well-known member
I did and still got nothing happening. I pulled the plug until I find out how to do this
Steevo
Well-known member
Hook your positive clamp to the steel plate, and immerse your rusty item with an end sticking above water line, or use a piece of steel bailing wire on your immersed item to hook over the bucket edge. Keep the item from touching the steel plate. If you get a little spark when you touch the negative lead to the wire/item, it will work.
The better the connection and the cleaner the steel plate, the more activity will be evident around the immersed item. You should see tiny bubbles (think beer) forming on the item and rising off into the soda water.
The better the connection and the cleaner the steel plate, the more activity will be evident around the immersed item. You should see tiny bubbles (think beer) forming on the item and rising off into the soda water.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Are you using a new "Smart" charger or an old fashioned one with a transformer?
johnnybentwrench
Well-known member
I was using an old POS charger, starter, 10 amp 2 amp. I changed it and put a battery tender on it. It's bubbling, I also got shocked when I put my hand in the water. I am curious to see the results. I am doing a PLOMB speeder with a flexible head
OP
Post some pics if you can.
I've been using a standard round trash can full of water (what is that, about 30 or 35 gallons?) and probably three or four cups (it's not really important how exact you get it) of sodium carbonate (soda ash from the pool supply store) and three pieces of 1x1/8 steel flat bar as the electrodes. I've done a lathe bed, sheet metal brake, and now I have a sheet metal roller in there. At one point I had it pulling over 16 Amps at 12VDC. I basically kept adding sodium carbonate and watched the current go up and up with a meter. When I felt that what I was adding wasn't making the current go much higher I stopped.
When I first tried electrolysis, I used "Easy Living" brand "Oxygen Cleaner" from Ralphs which is a mix of sodium percarbonate and sodium carbonate. It seemed to work very well.
I have to clean off steel electrodes about every 12 hours to really keep it effective, but it doesn't hurt to leave it in longer without touching it. It will just take longer.
I have an industrial power supply I'm using in the big tank but in my smaller tanks I've used a computer power supply rated for 10A 2 12VDC and a 6A Schumacher manual battery charger (not together).
When I first tried electrolysis, I used "Easy Living" brand "Oxygen Cleaner" from Ralphs which is a mix of sodium percarbonate and sodium carbonate. It seemed to work very well.
I have to clean off steel electrodes about every 12 hours to really keep it effective, but it doesn't hurt to leave it in longer without touching it. It will just take longer.
I have an industrial power supply I'm using in the big tank but in my smaller tanks I've used a computer power supply rated for 10A 2 12VDC and a 6A Schumacher manual battery charger (not together).