To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

First Vise Restoration - Wilton C2

OP
B

BoilermakerNate

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 17, 2010
Messages
57
Location
Chicago, IL
Got the dynamic jaw side all cleaned up and primed.
img1366o.jpg

Also primed the swivel base....forgot to take a pic. I'm going with rustoleum hammered grey. You can see the can in previous pictures. Comparing the cap of the can to the clean surface of the vise, it almost looks like bare metal...kinda cool. I want to do the lettering in a color, but something that will pop and that is not what everyone else does. I was thinking about using something along the lines of miller blue....probably rustoleum enamel safety blue.

What do most people do for the threaded sleeve? Paint it or just clean it up and coat it in grease or gear oil? I plan on applying paste wax to any parts that I am leaving bare and unpainted for protection. Would this make sense fo the sleeve?
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Outlawmws

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,244
Location
The Badlands
Paste wax should do well other than the wear areas, so after the wax I'd put a thin coat of gun oil on. (wipe with an oily rag)

Something I haven't seen in years that worked well was a spray graphite lube. You would spray it on wet, and the carrier would dry, and you could buff it out by hand and get a grayish, blued looking surface that would resist rust and was a lubricated surface. I'll have to poke around and see if anyone has an equivalent.
 
OP
B

BoilermakerNate

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 17, 2010
Messages
57
Location
Chicago, IL
Paste wax should do well other than the wear areas, so after the wax I'd put a thin coat of gun oil on. (wipe with an oily rag)

Something I haven't seen in years that worked well was a spray graphite lube. You would spray it on wet, and the carrier would dry, and you could buff it out by hand and get a grayish, blued looking surface that would resist rust and was a lubricated surface. I'll have to poke around and see if anyone has an equivalent.

Yeah, I wasn't sure if I should use grease or oil at the contact surface between the swivel and the base of the vise. I think I'll go with your suggestion and use a thin coat of oil. A spray graphite lube would be great. I've got the permatex anti-seize with graphite. I plan on using that on the screw.
 
OP
B

BoilermakerNate

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 17, 2010
Messages
57
Location
Chicago, IL
Painted the swivel base and the dynamic jaw.
img1370sj.jpg

img1369x.jpg

img1394xi.jpg


I took the picture of the swivel base before I sanded the top that comes in contact with the bottom of the vise body. I applied two coats of paste wax and buffed it out. I'll add some oil to the surface before reassembly.

I also used paste wax on the front of the dynamic jaw where the screw retaining collar is fastened.

Sprayed the first coat of color on the vise body tonight. I'll post some pictures of it after the second coat goes on in a couple days.
 

v7guy

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 7, 2009
Messages
557
Location
Hudson valley, NY
looks like she's shaping up real nice, nice color too!
I used some wheel bearing grease between the swivel base and the body, so far it seems to be working just fine, although I'm sure it'll hold some grit over time. The various bolts i used some anti seize on to hopefully avoid future problems.
the threaded sleeve i just coated in the same bearing grease... I put in a pretty substantial amount of grease in the area that holds the screw. So far so good.

actually the grease I used is is "LubriMatic Marine corrosion control and trailer wheel bearing grease"
 
Last edited:
OP
B

BoilermakerNate

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 17, 2010
Messages
57
Location
Chicago, IL
looks like she's shaping up real nice, nice color too!
I used some wheel bearing grease between the swivel base and the body, so far it seems to be working just fine, although I'm sure it'll hold some grit over time. The various bolts i used some anti seize on to hopefully avoid future problems.
the threaded sleeve i just coated in the same bearing grease... I put in a pretty substantial amount of grease in the area that holds the screw. So far so good.

actually the grease I used is is "LubriMatic Marine corrosion control and trailer wheel bearing grease"

Thanks, I was unsure of the color at first, but I definitely like it now that I can see it in person. It looks almost like a gunmetal in the pictures, and bare metal in person. I've been unable to find the Rustoleum safety blue for the lettering at my local stores so far...might have to order it.

I was originally going to use bearing grease as well for the swivel, but I'm concerned it will collect too much crud. I may change my mind before it's all said and done.
 
OP
B

BoilermakerNate

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 17, 2010
Messages
57
Location
Chicago, IL
Got around to painting the body.
img1425u.jpg

img1426nw.jpg


I ended up going with Ace's safety blue...it's pretty darn close to miller blue. I tested it out on the model# embossed in the bottom of the swivel base. It looked better than I thought it would, so I continued on with the model# on the dynamic jaw.
img1429cv.jpg

img1427kr.jpg


I'll post pics of the lettering on the body tomorrow.
 
Last edited:
OP
B

BoilermakerNate

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 17, 2010
Messages
57
Location
Chicago, IL
Here's the body with the letters painted. It was a little tedious since I had to use a toothpick, but i'm happy with the end result.
img1422bc.jpg

img1423yq.jpg
 
Last edited:
OP
B

BoilermakerNate

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 17, 2010
Messages
57
Location
Chicago, IL
Alright, I'm now at the point where I have all the parts that will remain bare metal degreased, free of rust, and ready to be polished before applying some paste wax. Unfortunately, I'm waiting for some new buffing wheels to be delivered. In the meantime, I thought of something else to work on.

The original swivel nuts with the handles were missing when I bought the vise. I decided to make my own since they cost so damn much. I'm sure this isn't a new idea, but I haven't seen anyone else fashion new ones in such a way.

I used 5/8"-11 threaded rod couplers as the nut. I then cut a 1/2" long piece of rod to thread into the top of each coupler. I left a little gap at the top so I could fill it in with my mig welder. Then I just cleaned everything up with my bench grinder.
img1435d.jpg
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
B

BoilermakerNate

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 17, 2010
Messages
57
Location
Chicago, IL
After finishing the top of each coupler, I drilled them out to allow a 5/16" handle. I can't imagine those ever bending at that diameter!
img1437w.jpg
 
OP
B

BoilermakerNate

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 17, 2010
Messages
57
Location
Chicago, IL
Here they are with the handles cut to length...
img1438hk.jpg


I just got done finishing up the handles. I was back and forth on how I was going to keep the handles from sliding out. Heat them up and mushroom the ends or weld a small washer on the end and grind flat? I went with the latter...
img1439h.jpg

img1443l.jpg

img1442t.jpg


Just need to buff them and they are all done!
 

Catalyze

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 7, 2011
Messages
1,369
Location
New Mexico
Way to go Nate!
2 slices of vise pie for you tonight. My first refresh was a Wilton 450S and they are a good vise to learn on. Doing one makes you appreciate the design (stolen some may say....cough cough) of enclosing the screw completely. Very nice color and lettering on yours also. Keep up the great photos!
Craig
 
OP
B

BoilermakerNate

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 17, 2010
Messages
57
Location
Chicago, IL
The stainless steel screws and carriage bolts I'm using to replace all the old fasteners finally arrived. Installed the swivel base with the new 5/8" carriage bolts.
img1445bh.jpg


Here's a closeup of the jaws all cleaned up and reinstalled.
img1447cz.jpg
 
OP
B

BoilermakerNate

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 17, 2010
Messages
57
Location
Chicago, IL
I made new pins since I drilled the originals out. I used 1/4" rod cut down to approximate sizes, then ground down on the bench grinder to the exact lengths required to install flush without requiring additional grinding once installed. Need to protect that paint! (at least until I start using it). Once completed, I installed the threaded sleeve insert. Even though I did apply paste wax to help prevent rust, I still added some gear oil with a rag and wiped the sleeve down. I did the same to the swivel base before installing.

I then coated the shaft of the dynamic jaw in gear oil and reinstalled it. When I previously said all the parts had been cleaned up and were ready to be installed, I forgot that I still had the handle/screw assembly. I degreased the screw and gave the whole thing a light cleaning with a wired cup on an angle grinder. Cleaned it up a little more with the buffer, then applied paste wax. Once done, the screw was reinstalled. I still need to get a freeze plug for the end cap, but here's the finished product!!

Before:
img0985v.jpg


After:
img1453b.jpg
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom