First Welder

[Adamski]

Picked up a HF welder last week and to say I'm not happy with it is an understatement. I'm pretty new to it, so I'd like to stay with a flux-core welder. I'd like to get something better in the $300 price range. Any recommendations is appreciated.
Thanks
Adam

 

[sberry]

Anyone that gives you any advice telling you anything other than to save up a little and get a 200 class brand mig is doing you a dis service.

 

[Vernon29RW]

someone recommended a HF welder to you or you just took a chance? Maybe the welder cart they make would be worth trying out, but not the actual welder!

 

[Verdugo]

If you have 220V available, I would agree with sberry - get one of the name brand machines andlet her rip. If, however, you are in the same situation as me and don't have 220V in the garage/workshop (...yet), I have had good luck with my Northern Tool 135 (I think they have changed their in-house brand so you would need to look on their website at what they have now). For the money I have had zero complaints or what I have used it for. The 110V offerings from Hobart and Lincoln (pretty much on and the same I believe) are also good. Just keep in mind (or else everyone on here will remind you...often) that they aren't good or structural-type welding (trailers, auto frames, etc.).

 

[Adamski]

I paid $30 for the HF welder off of Craigslist, so I'm not out too much. It wasn't recommnded by anyone, but thought for $30, it was worth it. Definitely not even worth that amount.

I'd really like to stay away from a full mig set-up. I have limited room and for the little use it will get, I think it would be a waste.

 

[Jagmandave]

I disagree......it depends entirely on what you're going to weld with it. If you're trying to weld 1/4" thick angle iron or such, no it's not going to cut it - but for sheet metal or light duty, occasional home shop stuff it might be perfectly fine.

However, I think the problem is the flux core wire - try one with gas and you'll see what I mean.

However #2, I don't think you can get a good gas welder for $300

My little Clarke 100e cost about $400 back in the mid 90's, it still works fine and does everything I need it too - but I did buy the bottle and I run light .023 wire in it - it's best on sheet metal or up to 3/16" stuff.

Here is an example of some work I did with it, this is 3/16" thick tubing....

View media item 17175
If the HF is working properly, more times than not it's the person wielding the torch that's causing the issues- that and flux core is never going to lay down a clean bead like gas shielding will.

 

[Ck1]

I occasionally see Lincoln 125 wire feed units in that price range on Craigslist.

What caused you to not be happy with the harbor freight unit? A friend of mine has one and likes it. I personally have a Miller 211. The main thing you should do is focus on surface prep and practice.

 

[txvwnut]

Lincoln makes a little dual voltage wire feed unit. It's just under a grand in price and is a decent little welder. A friend of mine bought one and I helped him break it in welding up a metal gate and was quite impressed with it, and him for buying a decent tool for once.

 

[Adamski]

What caused you to not be happy with the harbor freight unit? A friend of mine has one and likes it. I personally have a Miller 211. The main thing you should do is focus on surface prep and practice.

The wire feed is stop and go. The splatter/BB's is pretty excessive.

 

[airmissle]

The wire feed is stop and go. The splatter/BB's is pretty excessive.

The splatter is unfortunately pretty much what happens with all Flux-core, it doesn't matter the brand. The only solution is to buy a tank and use gas.

As for the wire feed being stop and go check your tip, make sure it isn't clogged also check the resistance on the spool. Also when running make sure you don't have any kinks or hard bends in the hose.

-Clark

 

[Adamski]

I know splatter is part of the flux-core deal. But, this is a ton of it. I've put a new tip on and messed with the tension on the feed. Nothing has worked. It basically just spits out chunks of hot metal.

 

[LWW]

Anyone that gives you any advice telling you anything other than to save up a little and get a 200 class brand mig is doing you a dis service.

I disagree. The Miller/Hobart/Lincoln Pro 115v welders are all fine for their intended use. Flux core is a pain to work with and requires a lot of finish work to clean it up.

I started with a Millermatic 175, upgraded to a 210 and now I've downsized to a Millermatic 211 MVP to make room for my Miller TIG.

I had a friend who gave me a hard time for spending all the "extra" money on the Miller when he was fine with his HF MIG. He spent so much time fiddling with his cheap welder that every job started with a 20 minute session of tightening, loosening or adjusting. I plugged mine in, turned it on, flipped my helmet down and pulled the trigger.

Starting with reliable equipment will make the learning process go MUCH faster and be WAY less frustrating so you'll be more likely to stick with it and get good.

 

[Adamski]

Thats my thoughts too, LWW. This is just for a hobby and around-the-house fixes. I doubt I'll ever need more, but if I do I can upgrade. I've always been one to buy cheap tools and the older I get, the less patience I have messing with them.

 

[LWW]

The 110V offerings from Hobart and Lincoln (pretty much on and the same I believe) are also good.

Actually, Hobart is made by Miller. The only difference is fewer adjustments on the Hobart and some of the Miller's aluminum parts are plastic. The bigger the welder the more similar they are but Hobart is Miller's "affordable" brand.

Be careful of the Lincoln welder's offered at HomeDepot, etc. They are Lincoln's "affordable/consumer grade" line and NOT the same as their professional grade units. Duty cycle is the best indicator. P.S. HF welder's GREATLY exaggerate their duty cycle.

 

[Adamski]

Tractor Supply has the Hobart 125 on sale for $280 right now. I think I'll take a chance on it and see how it goes.

 

[great white tj]

That hobart 125 will work fine for what you are going to use it for.

 

[rburke65]

Put that HF back on CList and sell it !

 

[Jetfixr320]

I've never tried this as I don't have a Harbor Freight welder. But, I have heard of people modding them to perform better. And since you only spent $30, why not try it.

Here is one link I found. http://weldingweb.com/showthread.ph...c-170-Amp-MIG-Flux-Wire-Welder-Mods-and-Tests

Steve

 

[83c10submariner]

I used flux core for a couple years in a 120 mig pack. Flux core works just fine once you know how to use it. Here is a couple things I learned. Wire has to be kept dry all the time. Damp un heated garage is a killer. Spend the money on some good wire like miller flux core not a power weld brand which seems to be around in a lot of places. Third and most important is prep. If the metal is not shinny don't even try and weld it. Even brand new metal needs to be preped to get the scale and posibably cutting oil off it.

 

[billyjp2]

I jumped right into welding with a miller 211. I'm very happy with my decision 4 years later, but I can see where it is a pretty big commitment spending that kind of money right off the bat. I know people who use the Hobart 125 and Miller 140 for hobby use with very few complaints. Just based off their feedback and the price tags on those machines I'd consider those as a first "real" welder.

 

[LWW]

HAHA! Billy, the 211 didn't exist when I started! But yeah, that's my goto. It's got plenty of duty cycle for non-production work on cars and roll-cages, it's portable and it works from 110v and 230v which makes it ideal for me to take to the track. In the past, I had to take my generator since none of the race tracks in my area have 208v service but most of them have 110v 15A which works fine with the 211 MVP and my HyperTherm plasma.

 

[Wizzard]

Skip the 110V welders all together (best advice I got when starting out). Get a Lincoln or Miller 220V MIG welder. I have a 180A Lincoln and it does everything I need it to do (house shop projects and welding on a race car).

 

[OldmanB]

If you buy a welder, buy a brand name, Hobart, Lincoln, Miller, Esab, other companies are not reliable, anything less will be a disappointment.

 

[Adamski]

I don't have a 220 line in my garage, so for now I'm stuck with 110.

 

[Boyd]

Sorry to hear that, OP. My HF welder works just fine. I bought mine 5 years ago with the idea of upgrading once I got more proficient at welding but it's done such a good job that I have yet to upgrade. Are the big names superior? Absolutely. For the price, they should be. But it's hard to beat the capability/dollar ratio the HF machines offer.

I have about $325 dollars in this whole set up - including the bottle, the 15ft 30A extension cord, the cart, and the clamps. I've welded everything from 1/4" plate gussets on a truck frame to 20ga sheet metal patches.

Either way. Good luck, OP.

 

[Adamski]

Did you convert it over to gas?

 

[Boyd]

Did you convert it over to gas?

Yes. It makes a HUGE difference. Call a welding supplier and ask how much a bottle of "mix" leases for. They come in 22 cubic feet, 40cf, 55cf, 80cf, and up. Or you can buy a bottle like I did. I picked up my 80cf bottle from CL for $50.

 

[sberry]

A problem with 120V is that its a poor welding voltage to begin with, the circuit isn't always the best and is fully loaded. There are some cheap machines that work quite well but when you get a brand name welder today and got to wonder if its you or the machine,,,, its U.

 

[sberry]

The small brand name market is very competitive, they really earn their money here. They are a great tool deal for the customer, prices are way below list.

 

[Wizzard]

I don't have a 220 line in my garage, so for now I'm stuck with 110.

Do you have a panel nearby that you can tap into? A 110V welder is almost kind of useless in the long run and not a good voltage for welding. And gas is the way to go for sure over flux core.

 

[sberry]

If you have anything of any value the mig will earn its keep quick, you will use it more than you think. The 140 and the 180 models of the red at the box store are very good. They lack a feature or 2 but basically have a different jacket for that market, they are not less. The duty cycle is the same.
A quite a few of the Miller/Hobart parts are the same. When you try to get much below these price levels the operation of the machine suffers. Eastwood has given up a little and a couple Northern units are not too bad, they are basically generic, probably sold under a lot of brands.

 

[sberry]

Jag, nice job with the small machine.

 

[LWW]

Yeah, you can get a bottle of C25 filled from your local AirGas or welding supply store for $40 and a small "rental" fee. I think my last one was like $30 for the tank and all the $40 refills I wanted. I own one C25 cylinder and "rent" an Argon cylinder from AirGas.

 

[theoldwizard1]

First, flux core MIG welding will NEVER be as good as MIG with a real gas bottle., I don't care what brand of welder you have !

I have about $325 dollars in this whole set up - including the bottle, the 15ft 30A extension cord, the cart, and the clamps. I've welded everything from 1/4" plate gussets on a truck frame to 20ga sheet metal patches.

Smart man. Using real gas.

 

[PCO6]

... My little Clarke 100e cost about $400 back in the mid 90's, it still works fine and does everything I need it too - but I did buy the bottle and I run light .023 wire in it - it's best on sheet metal or up to 3/16" stuff.

I agree. I bought a Clarke 100E in about 1986 and it was a good little welder for the things you stated. I sold it last year and it was still in good working order.

 

[TC007]

If I was to buy a new welder for my garage I would buy a Lincoln POWER MIG® 210 MP Multi-Process Welder - K3963-1
does stick mig tig including aluminum with the spool gun for just over a grand.
Always wanted an inexpensive mig/tig welder.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Most of the guys here will tell you to step up to a 220V welder for good reason, experience.

If you are set on sticking with a 120V welder, bypass that Hobart 125 and spend a few bucks more on the Hobart 140. You can still run flux core wire at first but when you get some extra cash, upgrade and get a bottle and dump the flux core wire. You'll be happy when you do.

 

[Todd1803]

Craigslist can be your friend. As with many of today's hand tools, sometimes the older models are more well constructed. I picked up an old Millermatic 172, with a small bottle and homemade cart for right around $400. It's a light duty 210v machine, predecessor to the 175. It's well built, will likely do everything I need, and should last me my lifetime.

 

[Jagmandave]

Craigslist can be your friend. As with many of today's hand tools, sometimes the older models are more well constructed. I picked up an old Millermatic 172, with a small bottle and homemade cart for right around $400. It's a light duty 210v machine, predecessor to the 175. It's well built, will likely do everything I need, and should last me my lifetime.

All these suggestions are fine, but he has said repeatedly that he does not have 220 available.

 

[Heavymetalmechanic]

Have you checked the drag on the wire from the cable liner? If it's grabbing the wire that can cause feed issues. Also as mentioned, is it the correct tip? And in good condition? Are the feed rollers the correct size for the wire you are using, and are they adjusted properly? Is the spool holder tension set too high? Is it a new spool of wire or did it come with it? Is it the correct wire for the material you are welding? Is the work surface prepped properly? Do you have a good ground connection and is the cable is good condition and properly connected to the unit? Is the workspace windy? Are you holding the tip too close or too far from the work? Are the settings correct for the wire and type of work?

I have seen some very impressive work done with the cheapest 110v unit you could get from Princess Auto, but it still can not be compared to a name brand unit running gas.