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Fixing cast iron drain pipe connection?

rodm1

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Feb 17, 2008
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2,273
I think the lead joint on my cast iron drain pipe is leaking. What is it called to re-lead the pipe joint?
 
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csp

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Mar 23, 2010
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Franktown, CO
Nowadays lead isn't used. Instead a two part epoxy makes the repair. The existing lead and oakum are removed from the joint, new oakum is tamped into the joint and is sealed with the epoxy.

This assumes that the cast pipe is in good condition at the joint.
 

P Dubya

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Dec 30, 2010
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408
Location
Iowa
Cut the leaking cast pipe out and replace with plastic. Use Fernco fittings to transition from cast to plastic. Dubya
 

truckman5000

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Mar 11, 2008
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1,440
like said above, maybee easier for you. Theres cast iron sawsawl blades you can buy at a plumbing supply c/o.
That epoxy stuff isnt approved to be used in my state so ive never used it. But theres lead wool, that you can also buy, that you oakum pak the joint with 2 inches of oakum, and 1 inch of lead. You can buy the tool or grind down an old screw driver to pack the joint.
 

59 wagon man

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Oct 25, 2010
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Location
hollywood fla
caulking the joint you can sometimes recaulk the joint and stop a leak . there are special chisels for yarning(oakum) or caulking(lead) caulking irons usually have a flat end to spread the lead. pointier style chisels are for packing oakum
 

csp

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Cut the leaking cast pipe out and replace with plastic. Use Fernco fittings to transition from cast to plastic. Dubya

Depends on if the leak is in a stack or not. Removing a chunk of cast iron in the middle or bottom of a stack probably isn't a good idea to begin with, let alone replacing it with PVC and Ferncos to take the weight above.

I'll take cast anyday over PVC or ABS. Nice and quiet.
 
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AH99

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Oct 19, 2007
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1
Lead joints, after poured are "caulked" with hammers and caulking irons.

I had a leaky joint in my place and grabbed a piece of flat steel bar and hammered the lead further into the joint. It went so easily that I added a few scraps of lead roof flashing and hammered those in too. Leak stopped, and no problems since. Took longer to type this than to complete the repair.

Good luck,
Andy
 

kbs2244

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Nov 11, 2006
Messages
14,065
As AH99 said.

The lead is soft and will cold flow enough to reseal a leak.
The last time I did it I used a length of 1/4 inch steel rod.
Any steel punch that general size should work.

Don't get carried away with the hits.
Cast Iron is brittle.
You can break it.
 
OP
R

rodm1

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Feb 17, 2008
Messages
2,273
Reseating the lead is a good idea. Its in the main trunk and the toilet would have to be removed to replace with PVC. I would rather not pull all that out for just a miner leak.

Thanks everyone, it gives me a few idea on witch way to pressed.
 

flat350

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Jan 1, 2009
Messages
1,006
Location
illinois
The job of the lead is to keep the oakum compacted in place(2" of well compacted oakum and 1" of lead in the avg. joint).Depending on the age/location of the home it could have either brown or white oakum in the joint,white oakum will swell when wet and actually reseal itself.It's worth trying resetting the lead and see if the leak stops,the lead working tools have a blunt end on them and are 1" to 1 1/2" wide and different shapes and special uses(I have over 15 different types)make up something and give it a try.We still pour lead bell and spigot c.i. joints in the Chicago area every day,it's still in the Chicago code except for some residential use of PVC being allowed. http://www.mephistotool.com/caulkingIrons.html
 
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