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Fixing jacked up electrical box

pgray007

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Jul 25, 2007
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573
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Charlotte, NC area
One of my boxes is a bit “jacked up” meaning it’s higher on one aide than the other, and the screw hole for a couple of the switches cracked.

Any advice on how to fix? It’s flush with the drywall on one side and 5/8” above on the other side.

I’m pretty incompetent, but at least this is NOT one of the boxes I installed.

beb8448079af561923ee732a51198d2e.jpg



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teamextreme

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Lakewood, CO
F-straps, or sometimes called battleship clamps, will help pull that far-side of the box back flush with the drywall.
 
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pgray007

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Charlotte, NC area
Could someone include a picture or link? I've seen a few different things searching on google (and discovered some watering holes in Wisconsin after searching for Madison Bars) so I'm not sure which thing is correct or how it would work in this application.

I am VERY glad to hear there's an easier solution that trying to rip out the box and put in a new one!

Does it matter that the box is plastic? Also any tricks for the stripped out holes on the bottom of the box or just live with it and use the outlet cover to keep the switches stable?
 

Rtw5150

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May 31, 2012
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Google "Madison hangers" and a pic will show up. I don't see why they wouldn't work on a plastic box. I would replace the box but if you don want to do that maybe You can drill and tap the stripped screw holes to 8-32 screws if theres enough meat around the hole or fill the screw holes and drill and retap the holes back to 6-32
 

rburke65

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Canfield, Ohio
Never heard of battleships!.....really? Where do they get battleships? Madison hold-it's is all we ever called them. Used to hold old work boxes in the wall. As far as the screw hole being cracked a pic would help. On a plastic box not much you can do other than JB Weld, drill and retap. May be easier to disconnect and replace with an old work, gangable box(es) and the Madison Hold Its. Let us know.....we can fix this.
 

walta

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Dutzow Missouri
If the 2x4 is on the side of the box that is flush then you need a battleship.

This video shows how to install it.



Walta
 

kaffine

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Henderson, NV
Thanks for the video I was trying to figure out how the bracket worked by looking at it and not having much luck.
 
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teamextreme

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Does it matter that the box is plastic? Also any tricks for the stripped out holes on the bottom of the box or just live with it and use the outlet cover to keep the switches stable?

The code nazis will claim that they aren't allowed on plastic boxes because they are metal and wouldn't be grounded. They probably are technically correct, but I think that's getting a little ****.

If the existing box not only has jacked up mounting, but also stripped holes, I'd probably consider just replacing it at this point, however.
 

Norcal

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The code nazis will claim that they aren't allowed on plastic boxes because they are metal and wouldn't be grounded. They probably are technically correct, but I think that's getting a little ****.

If the existing box not only has jacked up mounting, but also stripped holes, I'd probably consider just replacing it at this point, however.

My fix for stripped mounting holes is to use a thread insert such as Heli-Coil,that way OEM device mounting screws can still be used, works great on crappy Slater Kwik-Clik boxes also. If people took some care in mounting the boxes this thread would not be here, Hold-it's work well for goof ups like what is shown in the OP's post, HD does carry them made by Raco, or Steel City.
 
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pgray007

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Charlotte, NC area
Well that explains it.... I bought some hold-its (Lowe’s stocks them once I actually knew what to look for) but even the BFH couldn’t get the box level. I disconnected everything and ripped it out of the wall to find that someone got a little crazy with the expansion foam:

c1a110c0f226416163597a80d8b19954.jpg


This was one of the three boxes the builder put in when the shop was just bare studs and some bulbs.

I tore out a bunch of the foam. Now I just need to get an old work box and cut out the nails (I cut the plastic Support’s off the box with an oscillating tool).

I hate the couple hour “fixing stuff that wasn’t done right” projects!


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AffableCurmudgeon

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Triad Area NC
The code nazis will claim that they aren't allowed on plastic boxes because they are metal and wouldn't be grounded. They probably are technically correct, but I think that's getting a little ****.

That is a bad idea.
If someone gets electrocuted or something catches on fire and insurance company finds a blatant code violation, the insurance company will be be significantly more than a "little ****" with respect to your claim.
 
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pgray007

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Charlotte, NC area
Problem solved, although unfortunately had to rip out the box and redo. I definitely learned something new on the clamps. Anyone know why they’re called “battleship clamps???”

b964c59dfc50b61c1ff134dd297a7989.jpg



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ard

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Sierra Foothills... California
That is a bad idea.
If someone gets electrocuted or something catches on fire and insurance company finds a blatant code violation, the insurance company will be be significantly more than a "little ****" with respect to your claim.

No, they will not.

Show us ONE claim where a homeowner was denied coverage due to failing to follow code, or other mistakes. Discussed many many times in many many forums, but short of gross/willfull acts, this urban myth just never happens.
 

walta

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Dutzow Missouri
"Anyone know why they’re called “battleship clamps???”

If you hold one the right way and use some imitation you may see a ship.

Walta
 

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rburke65

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Canfield, Ohio
Or if you flip them over they are called a "rake"!!!!! What the hell are you people smoking? A battle ship....really....! Or side ways.....now you can call the "F's".
 
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