Fixing my Fluke 83III

[xbeatles4x]

My fluke multimeter is starting to act up. Or maybe it has always acted up and I thought new leads would fix it. Any way it has this weird thing where it won't have any readings or at least any accurate readings unless I apply some pressure on my negative lead connector where it connects to the fluke multimeter itself. I guess the connector that connects the meter to the lead connector is loose or something. Has anyone else had this issue? Is this something that I can fix myself or would I need to send it off to get fixed.

I didn't really want to spend much on this as it was given to me when it was working fine. I don't know why it developed this. It was apparent before I changed out the leads. Is this a common problem?

 

[redmondjp]

There is a circuit board inside the unit. It sounds like there is a cracked solder joint, either on the negative connector (good), OR somewhere else on the board that pushing in on the negative connector makes a good connection (harder to find).

I'd crack it open and take a look. Do you have any soldering experience?

 

[KevinFox]

As above the solder on the sockets can crack (easy fix) or the leg of the sockets can break ($35 replacement part & a little bit of soldering)

 

[xbeatles4x]

I do have some soldering experience but none on small electronics. I'll take a look when I get home.

 

[Davefr]

Before you take it apart and start soldering I'd contact the Fluke 1-800 number. Most Fluke DMM's have a lifetime warranty. (however you might need proof of purchase).

 

[redmondjp]

Before you take it apart and start soldering I'd contact the Fluke 1-800 number. Most Fluke DMM's have a lifetime warranty. (however you might need proof of purchase).

Well, how about that! I wasn't aware of this, but it's also good to read the fine print - if they discontinue that product, the 'lifetime' warranty only is good for seven years after the discontinuation date, or 10 years from the date of purchase:

http://www.fluke.com/fluke/sgen/Service/Warranties/

So, it depends upon how you define 'lifetime.' And they may claim that this problem is "normal wear and tear of mechanical parts."

 

[xbeatles4x]

I do not have any proof of purchase on this tool. My friend gave it to me about a year ago when he was moving to New York.

 

[xbeatles4x]

Well this is weird. I took apart the multimeter to see if there were any broken solders on the negative terminal. I couldn't find any problem with anything. I put it back together and it seems to be working fine. I'll re inspect in a month or so when my next electrical project will be and see.

 

[Jtcrep]

Change the batteries, low power will cause intermitent problems.

 

[xbeatles4x]

Hmm. I'll try that but the batteries and pretty much new.

 

[raiderhillbilly]

sounds like you need this:

http://shop.flukerepairkit.com/Fluk...or-83-85-86-87-88-and-787-80-Series-Input.htm

 

[xbeatles4x]

Sorry for the late reply. Summer session A just ended for me so I have time to start tinkering again with my tools and projects and finally saw the response I needed. Raider hillbilly, I just ordered that part you suggested and it will be here in a few days. With some additional research I did it looks like that is indeed the part I needed. Hope it works flawlessly now.

 

[MBfreak]

Hi.
I can confirm that the input connectors break off at the bottom where they are soldered on to the PCB.
I love FLUKE´s, but this seems like a bad design.
I repaired mine by soldering in flex leads between the sleeve halves in the socket and the PCB.

Best regards

Ola

 

[xbeatles4x]

Late bump but I did receive the connector and I tried using my soldering iron but it wasn't up to the task of melting the solder on the oe connector so I could install a new one. Does anyone have a recommendation for a better soldering iron or station? Approximately how hot does it need to get? I was looking at a few soldering stations.

 

[organ]

Late bump but I did receive the connector and I tried using my soldering iron but it wasn't up to the task of melting the solder on the oe connector so I could install a new one. Does anyone have a recommendation for a better soldering iron or station? Approximately how hot does it need to get? I was looking at a few soldering stations.

I like my Hakko fx888d...

 

[xbeatles4x]

That is a lot more money than I am willing to spend. Ive been doing some research and I am thinking between a used Weller Wes51 or a Hakko 936 knockoff.

The knock off I was looking at was the Aoyue 936.

 

[beamrider]

One word: Flux.

 

[redmondjp]

You don't need anything fancy. You just need an iron or gun which can generate enough heat to get the entire connector up the solder's melting point. As mentioned above, flux helps cut through the oxide so you can get good metal-to-metal contact which is necessary for effective heat transfer.

I have a Weller soldering gun that I typically use for jobs like this. With the gun, there are two important things: keeping the tip clean and tinned, and keeping the electrical connections to the tip clean (either two set screws or two nuts that you just have to loosen and tighten a few times to clean off the oxide layer).

 

[xbeatles4x]

Man, life seems to get in the way sometimes. My fluke is still not working correct and my new PCB is just sitting next to my fluke laughing at me. I still have not gotten around to ordering a good soldering station. I tried again and my pencil soldering iron from radio shack just isn't up to the task. I will have to step it up.

If it was between the Hakko fx888 and the wes51, what would make one more desirable than the other?

 

[xbeatles4x]

I think I made a royal goof. I was inspired again to do some research on soldering and take a look at my multimeter. It looked like the connector board had an ever so slightly broken connector where the red lead would normally go on the back side. I added a bit more solder to the connection and it seems to be working fine now.

Now I am excited to start diagnosing some old wiring on my VW project.