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Fixing Up a Trenton

gtermini

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Joined
Feb 1, 2013
Messages
533
Location
Amity, OR
EDIT: I forgot surfacing anvils was a touchy subject, so I guess this thread should be tagged to contain GORE. I have no reserves about what I did, but it may be unsettling to some. Proceed at your own risk.

Well 3PM rolled around as usual, and I went to eat a snack and check "the list". Right at the top of my nearest craigslist was a listing for a Trenton anvil. I quickly picked up the phone and set up a deal. It was about 2 miles away counting a stop at the bank. I met the guy at his storage unit and we bs'ed for a minute, then did the deal. He had a 250 lb Trenton but wasn't going to sell it (yet :evil:).

This little guy was pretty beat up, but nothing that scared me off. I mean it's just a paperwieght (see bench grinder for scale)...
rVU1frJ.jpg


He claimed to have used it some, and had done a nice job wire wheeling it up. Perfectly proportioned for its 100 lb size.
gxB3Btt.jpg


GU1H9kG.jpg


mvJSUW2.jpg


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FTVbTHX.jpg


The face had some pretty good dings from nearly a century of use:
cgSnv5A.jpg


RVZDQCG.jpg


I got back to work about 4 and decided all further progress on other jobs was done for the day. I figured I'd clean my new find up a little, you know, as the saying goes, when in Rome, Blanchard grind away... err or something like that.

I ran the wheel up on the Blanchard 18 and found out I had 9 1/2" between the chuck. Perfect, since this anvil was just over 9" tall.

I threw her up on the chuck and hit the mag. The bottom wasn't the flattest, but it seemed to sit level enough. The initial sparks showed exactly what I expected... it was sway back worse than an old nag. It was bumping on the tail and right up by the cutting table. I didn't care exactly how much saddle there was because I was going to grind until I was happy.
O56PA1B.jpg


Looking better after about .030". You can tell which side the blacksmith always stood on:
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It's a pain to photograph ground surfaces.

After taking off about .125", I decided it was as good as I was going to be able to get within reason. Since the base wasn't the flattest, I was limited to a half thou or so a pass. It took a little better than a half hour to clean the face up. That's mostly coolant on the face.
kED0gOm.jpg


The only thing I couldn't get rid of was a portion of the abused, rounded over edge in the center on the most used side. I can live with that, and I didn't have to weld or hard face any.
8NX3NvY.jpg


I didn't want it to rock around on the bench, and seal up good if it was ever used for anvil shooting (never!), so I flipped it over to clean up the base. Since the face was fresh ground, it stuck hard to the chuck and I could hog some metal off. I took about .150" at 3-5 thou a pass.
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Overall, I am pretty happy with how it turned out. Going to be tough to smack anything against that pretty face and mess it up.
Qzu5USm.jpg



It will be right at home sitting next the my 165 Trenton at home.

Greyson
 
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RustnGrease

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Jun 26, 2014
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Schuylkill County, PA
At first i thought it was a paperweight, until the second picture, now i dont know what i'm more jealous of, the fact that you have a 100lb trenton or a bench grinder that size, plus the other equipment to clean up said anvil. Nice score!
 

Black Frog

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Joined
Sep 27, 2011
Messages
134
Took off .125"? I want to cry. That original steel plate was probably only about 1/4" thick. The steel plate is where you get your hardness and rebound (work efficiency), and now you've probably removed half the thickness.

While it may be visually pretty now, I'm willing to bet the rebound of the anvil has decreased dramtically with removing that thickness of top hardened plate. Sorry, but that anvil was perfectly useable as it was.

Grinding or machining anvil faces is rarely a good idea.

And if you feel you just have to do it, it is a good idea to flip the anvil over and do the bottom FIRST. That way you are getting the bottom of the base parallel with the top face before taking any precious material off the top.
 
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gtermini

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Joined
Feb 1, 2013
Messages
533
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Amity, OR
Took off .125"? I want to cry. That original steel plate was probably only about 1/4" thick. The steel plate is where you get your hardness and rebound (work efficiency), and now you've probably removed half the thickness.

While it may be visually pretty now, I'm willing to bet the rebound of the anvil has decreased dramtically with removing that thickness of top hardened plate. Sorry, but that anvil was perfectly useable as it was.

Grinding or machining anvil faces is rarely a good idea.

And if you feel you just have to do it, it is a good idea to flip the anvil over and do the bottom FIRST. That way you are getting the bottom of the base parallel with the top face before taking any precious material off the top.

Take a look at the pictures of how the metal came off. It took .125" from when the wheel first touched to when I was satisfied. I probably didn't take .025" off the the center of the face. You can see in the side shots at the end the face is better than 3/8" (more like 1/2") thick with no noticeable effect from the grinding.

fhiSyq9.jpg


This anvil was beat. There wasn't much I could have done to further **** it up. People will piss and moan about taking metal off an anvil, but in the end, it is 100 time more useable than it was. Maybe in another 100 years, someone will take another cut on it and breath life into it again. Anvils are meant to be used, and anything done to them to make them useful is beneficial. /endrant

Greyson
 
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shanny19

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May 24, 2014
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1,209
Location
PNW
Yeah, mixed emotions on this one. Jealous for sure of your equipment and know-how, sad for the anvil. I've got a 95 lb Trenton, in similar but slightly bettter shape than yours was to start with. If anybody machined 1/8" off of it I'd do more than piss and moan.
 

Black Frog

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Sep 27, 2011
Messages
134
That anvil was not beat. Just because it wasn't perfectly flat, or may have had some marks in the face does not mean it is needing a total face grinding. That "beat" anvil was immensely better than what a couple thousand years of smiths were working on through history. They would have killed for something that nice, and they were turning out phenomenal work with much less.

Saying that you fixed it up is not an accurate statement. You made it flat and look pretty, but you killed the resale value for anyone that knows anything about anvils, and you reduced the hardened work area.

It is your anvil, and you can do with it whatever you like.
 
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gtermini

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Feb 1, 2013
Messages
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Location
Amity, OR
It is your anvil, and you can do with it whatever you like.

If I decide at a later point that it's not hard enough (file test after grinding said it was fine), I'll burn a couple layers of Stoody rod on it and throw it on the grinder again. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

Greyson
 

Black Frog

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Joined
Sep 27, 2011
Messages
134
That's the reason I cringe when I see people grinding or maching anvil faces.

An anvil face can be built up, but it takes a specific process with preheat and proper materials that many do not have, or do not know the procedure to do so.

For those not familiar, here's a glimpse into what is needed, it isn't quick, it isn't cheap, and it isn't easy.

http://www.anvilmag.com/smith/anvilres.htm
 
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