Fixture/jig weld table top

[VonMoldy]

I would like to build a weld table capable of using fixture or jig tooling. I have a friend who has a CNC plasma would this be accurate enough? I don't want to spend 400 bux to buy one with the addition of shipping from a company.

Failing this any of you guys with experience of having stuff laser cut give me an idea on the cost estimate for like a 3'x4' top?

 

[kkroger]

Not likely on the cnc Plasma you would likely have to drill out the holes after plasma cutting them undersize... Waterjet is what you would want really... Laser too...
Laser shop near me charges $125 per hour... Mag Drill, annular cutter, and a ruler and square?

 

[dr_clyde]

Cost will depend on thickness. Like, a ton.

For a 1/2" thick chunk you'd be looking at at least a couple hundred for waterjet, maybe less at the laser shop.

 

[corrie]

Not likely on the cnc Plasma you would likely have to drill out the holes after plasma cutting them undersize... Waterjet is what you would want really... Laser too...
Laser shop near me charges $125 per hour... Mag Drill, annular cutter, and a ruler and square?

Drilling after plasma cutting undersize would be tough.
Cutting them slightly oversize and tacking a nut to the bottom may be easier.

 

[sanddan]

I got a quote from a local company for a 4x4x .5" thick top laser cut out of pickled and oiled steel with a 6" square pattern of 5/8" holes (a little over 100 holes) and it was about $350. It was about a dollar a hole plus the cost of the top. The P&O steel has a very nice finish and tends to be very flat, especially when laser cut and not plasma or sheared.

 

[kkroger]

Drilling after plasma cutting undersize would be tough.
Cutting them slightly oversize and tacking a nut to the bottom may be easier.

Not really... Of course I run a plasma table... I would not recommend it...

 

[VonMoldy]

Not sure but I don't think I need 1/2" top because I am just a hobbyist not a production shop and I don't usually deal with very heavy stuff and don't plan on welding to the table itself.

What do you guys recommend for a budget conscious weld table? I like the idea of having some holes or slots for fixtures but the most important is flatness.

 

[laser3kw]

I got a quote from a local company for a 4x4x .5" thick top laser cut out of pickled and oiled steel with a 6" square pattern of 5/8" holes (a little over 100 holes) and it was about $350. It was about a dollar a hole plus the cost of the top. The P&O steel has a very nice finish and tends to be very flat, especially when laser cut and not plasma or sheared.

That would be a very good deal. I just figured the weight of a 3 x 4 x 1/2 (ops measurements) to be about 245 lb. So at a buck a pound plus 100 holes at $350 is real good.
Plasma may put to much heat into that small of an area and, depending on thickness, may curl and not remain flat. A good shop can get around that by allowing cooling time, but then that time will cost money.
You need as thick as you can afford. To thin and you will bend it when you torque a clamp down on a "un-flat" part. I would consider 3/4 plate, laser cut.

 

[56rpm]

I've built all my welding/fab tables and get the making it yourself. However, this table is pretty nice.

 

[VonMoldy]

What do you guys think of these certiflat welding tables? I like that I can put it together myself and it isn't super expensive or heavy. 2x4 table $259 without shipping.

These tables get their strength and level from very accuratley laser cut tab and slot assembly.

 

[Gary Anderson]

Picked up a couple of these at auction a few weeks ago.
60" x 23" x 2 7/8" thick solid steel (About 1300# each)
Drilled and tapped 1/2-13 and 5/8-11
Plus one that has T-slots the length.
It is 7 inches thick, a little heavier.



Your Pal, Gary

 

[laser3kw]

If it fits your budget, go for it.
I watched the video, that looks like it would be stiff enough for your purpose. The "tab & slot" is also known as "egg crate".
Just remember when you weld it together, to do 1 or 2 inch welds in one spot, then skip to the middle and do another, then skip to the end and do another, then let the whole thing cool, then repeat.
Spread the welds around in a pattern to prevent the welds from distorting the flatness.
It is very easy to bow something with a continuous weld.

 

[Beemer533]

Ive got the 2x4 certiflat table and for light fab work and welding it is great, especially for the price.

What it definitely is not is a big heavy table that you can beat the **** out of. But all I do with my Tig is fix stuff around the house and put together smaller projects (like a stand for my Porta band saw) so I really didn't need a table with a 1/2 or 3/4 thick top.

You need lots of clamps to put it together..

 

[jeepinerdeep]

If it fits your budget, go for it.
I watched the video, that looks like it would be stiff enough for your purpose. The "tab & slot" is also known as "egg crate".
Just remember when you weld it together, to do 1 or 2 inch welds in one spot, then skip to the middle and do another, then skip to the end and do another, then let the whole thing cool, then repeat.
Spread the welds around in a pattern to prevent the welds from distorting the flatness.
It is very easy to bow something with a continuous weld.

In the certiflat system you burn on the tabs inside the slot. ( About 1 inch like you said ) It kinda does the thinking for you. As long as you have it squashed together with clamps, you are GTG.

Like this http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5367341&postcount=19

 

[laser3kw]

In the certiflat system you burn on the tabs inside the slot. ( About 1 inch like you said ) It kinda does the thinking for you. As long as you have it squashed together with clamps, you are GTG.

I have worked with this method and it is a good design for precise fit up and alignment. Like Beemer533 shows and jeepinerdeep suggest, use a lot of clamps. I would still spread your weld points out around the part to prevent "heat creep" in an area. I would also put welds in the vertical corners where two "legs" meet at 90º. Maybe the instructions call for that, IDK .

What it definitely is not is a big heavy table that you can beat the **** out of.

 

[Beemer533]

I can't remember exactly, but the instructions do say to alternate weld locations when welding the Web or lattice together. Really though it is more like heavy tacks at each intersection. I didn't take pics, but I don't think I did anything more than a half inch weld.

Also, you only weld the lattice together on the bottom, you don't weld it to the top. Once you have the lattice tacked together, you flip the whole thing over and weld the top to the lattice at the laser cut slots only, as Jeep described.

It worked really well, I could not measure any difference in the flatness of the top after welding..

 

[zkling]

Personally, I'd ask yourself if you REALLY need a table with all those fixture capabilities. I know this forum seems to get a ***** over them, but I have a feeling only a fraction of the people actually need and take full advantage of them. Top thickness becomes a function of what you plan on doing on it and support structure. Simply put, the larger and thinner the plate, the more dense support you want to have under the top.

 

[Beemer533]

To each his own obviously. If I had the space I would probably also have a big heavy table as well, just because..

But in reality, for 99% of what I do a table like this works much better.. Most of what I do is just small frame type stuff out of aluminum, so I can't tack anything to the table generally. All the holes allow me to clamp where I need to, as well as have stops which great when trying to have to identical parts.

Again, it really comes down to individual usage, not everyone needs (or has the space for) a table that weighs 1000#....