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Flake in clear coat?

user521

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Joined
Apr 13, 2013
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8
Having my garage floor done yesterday and today, 100% solids epoxy, light broadcast of flake, polyaspartic clear. The polyaspartic was finished like 2 hours ago. I'm concerned because I thought flake was normally broadcast into the epoxy and clear coated over that (to cover flake edges). For some reason they didn't flake into the epoxy yesterday, they flaked into the polyaspartic today.... is that OK?

I thought maybe it was OK because maybe polyaspartic was "high build" and would still encapsulate the flake but you can definitely feel the edge of the flake from where I can reach.

Is this a problem? Should I (can I) have them put another layer of polyaspartic over top? Thoughts??
 
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benwah

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May 21, 2014
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You can broadcast flake into epoxy or polyaspartic, but the flake must be top-coated with a clear poly.

What I mean is the flake must be encapsulated in the clear resin. That is usually done by rolling on one or two coats of a polyurethane or polyaspartic material after the flake has been swept up, scraped and vacuumed.
 
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user521

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Apr 13, 2013
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You can broadcast flake into epoxy or polyaspartic, but the flake must be top-coated with a clear poly.

What I mean is the flake must be encapsulated in the clear resin. That is usually done by rolling on one or two coats of a polyurethane or polyaspartic material after the flake has been swept up, scraped and vacuumed.

This is kinda what I thought.... is there a time limit on when the second coat of polyaspartic needs to go on?
 
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user521

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Have to contact the mfg.
If it's a 2-4 hour cure, probably want another coat within 12 hours without further prep.

This is what I get for hiring stuff out... if I'd just DIY'd with your products I'd be talking to the manufacturer right now... as it is I guess I've got to ask this company who the manufacturer is... and ask them... I think the chance that's happening inside of 12 hours is low...
 
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rjacobs

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Scotty - any idea what "additional prep" should look like?

Most of the additional prep steps I have seen when outside of recoat windows is to buff the floor with a green 3m pad then wipe it all down with denatured alcohol...

Problem with that, in your situation, is that you will likely scuff off a **** ton of your flakes...
 
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user521

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Apr 13, 2013
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Thanks for the replies guys! I talked with the installer and he agreed to do another coat of polyaspartic over to p. I asked about the recoat times for his manufacturer and he said 24 hours. I looked at the guidance on their website and it didn't specify the time (hard to believe) but looking at various manufacturers up to 36 hours seems plausible so I'll take him at his word.

I really appreciate how responsive you guys all are, made the difference between thinking I'm crazy and thinking it needed to be fix.

Thanks guys!
 

benwah

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May 21, 2014
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Crested Butte, Colorado
Thanks for the replies guys! I talked with the installer and he agreed to do another coat of polyaspartic over to p. I asked about the recoat times for his manufacturer and he said 24 hours. I looked at the guidance on their website and it didn't specify the time (hard to believe) but looking at various manufacturers up to 36 hours seems plausible so I'll take him at his word.

I really appreciate how responsive you guys all are, made the difference between thinking I'm crazy and thinking it needed to be fix.

Thanks guys!
You would have to look at the product data sheet for the specific product he is using to find that information. Keep in mind, most recoat windows are written as having a temperature of 77 degrees and 50% relative humidity. The product data sheet *should* specify this.

Cooler temperatures can keep that window open longer while warmer temperatures can close it very fast. Every situation is different so you may check your ambient conditions over the last 24 hours to verify you are within the window.
 
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