Flange repair above concrete

[Hklein]

I apologize for posting off topic in the wrong forum, but The advice I have gotten here has helped so much in the past I didn't know where else to go. I'm just trying to put a new toilet down and I don't know exactly what I'm working with but I will add pictures. The PVC flange is cracked I have two or three different repair kits and I just don't know which one to go with. Thanks!!!!!

 

[mires]

Definitely going to need to see pics.

 

[Hklein]

Here:

Thanks!!!

I don't know why they are upside down..

 

[ADSR]

Your pooper is on the ceiling?

 

[mires]

If it were me, I would cut it off flush with the concrete and use a hub saver to drill out the remaining flange that is down in the pipe. Then you can glue a new flange in.

 

[stokefire7]

Youv'e got a couple options. This:

or bust out the floor.

 

[Hklein]

No, no more busting anything, dad says so… I don't know why I started this project it was the worst idea ever but I don't know I just don't have the desire to get all up in that damn pipe I didn't think it was gonna be so complicated

 

[Hklein]

I heard something about self leveling concrete, I can pour that behind the toilet that might work right? And I guess I could just drill straight down into the concrete right with stainless steel screws?

 

[gregtwojeeps]

Use a dremel tool to cut the pipe flush then install this maybe... if your local big box store does not have them... Amazon does. JMO

 

[Daves69]

Here:

Thanks!!!

I don't know why they are upside down..

Were the pictures taken with an Apple product? I ran into this with my IPad and found that I have to keep the home button on the right while taking pictures.

 

[James-W]

Youv'e got a couple options. This:

or bust out the floor.

That is one slick tool. I never knew they had a tool like that.

 

[Scott r c]

I would try those wrap around clamshell split rings first. You can set the bolts down thru some liquid concrete patch, and caulk in toilet before you use it.

 

[Hklein]

Were the pictures taken with an Apple product? I ran into this with my IPad and found that I have to keep the home button on the right while taking pictures.

yes! I'm a lefty so that explains a lot..thank you!!

 

[Hklein]

I have almost got it flush with the floor..why I have a harbor freight "dremel"/rotary I will never have a proper excuse.. it's an offset flange, I believe it's 3 inches sitting inside the 4 inch pipe. How do I get the rest of it out? What a nightmare

 

[ADSR]

That is one slick tool. I never knew they had a tool like that.

I'm scared to asks the cost!!

 

[tms0425]

This might work for you. I've done it a couple of times to get the pvc out and start over.

 

[Hklein]

Thanks!! Made progress yayyyy

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[mygarageone]

There was a very simple fix for that flange but it's too late now . Sorry.

I'm a lic plumber and have fixed more than a few of these.

 

[Shadowdog500]

There was a very simple fix for that flange but it's too late now . Sorry.

I'm a lic plumber and have fixed more than a few of these.

Out of curiosity, what is the simple fix? Maybe we could use it for the next time.

Thanks,

Chris

 

[Ron Lombardo]

... first and biggest problem is that was an offset closet flange because the dimnsion off the wall was not correct ... you could have used an inside closet flange if it was roughed in 4" but it appears it was 3" and inside closet flanges on 3" usually cause the toilet not to flush good ... so not that you have hacked it off ... your only option could ahve been and its a risky one is to use the tool that removes the socket from inside the hub of the pvc fitting ... but you used a 3" street 90 belew the slab so that option is out .. now you need to surgically remove the flange hub from the outside and try to break it away with a screw driver ... i say chop it up and fix it right and while your at it ... rough it in to 12" off the wall this time.

 

[Hklein]

I have the pipe cut flush with the floor, almost… Unfortunately I suppose whoever finish the basement use the primer and then the sealant so that's basically bonded together forever? I was thinking about getting a 4 inch hole saw or maybe an inner pipe cutter drill bit but it's just so disgusting do you have any recommendations for how to actually plug the hole successfully so that every time someone else in the house flushes i won't get a face full of ewwwww?


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[Hpozzuoli]

I would have just drilled deeper holes and set them with expansion sleeves. I think you created a lot of extra work. You had the dish for the wax ring to set in. Your issue was a cracked flange where the bolts go.

Now that it's somewhat flush with the floor I would smooth the wax ring dish out with some epoxy and fill around what's left with drylok. Once everything is set drill some new holes. Trying to mate a new flange or top flange will be a pain.

What state are you in?

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

I have the pipe cut flush with the floor, almost… Unfortunately I suppose whoever finish the basement use the primer and then the sealant so that's basically bonded together forever? I was thinking about getting a 4 inch hole saw or maybe an inner pipe cutter drill bit but it's just so disgusting do you have any recommendations for how to actually plug the hole successfully so that every time someone else in the house flushes i won't get a face full of ewwwww?


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Simply don't let anyone use any water while you are working on it. With the proper tools your face shouldn't be too close to the open pipe for more than a few minutes.

 

[mires]

Please don't take this as me being rude because I'm not but you really need to call yourself a plumber. Stick with what you know. A couple hundred bucks and you could have saved yourself a lot of time and headache.

 

[Hklein]

... first and biggest problem is that was an offset closet flange because the dimnsion off the wall was not correct ... you could have used an inside closet flange if it was roughed in 4" but it appears it was 3" and inside closet flanges on 3" usually cause the toilet not to flush good ... so not that you have hacked it off ... your only option could ahve been and its a risky one is to use the tool that removes the socket from inside the hub of the pvc fitting ... but you used a 3" street 90 belew the slab so that option is out .. now you need to surgically remove the flange hub from the outside and try to break it away with a screw driver ... i say chop it up and fix it right and while your at it ... rough it in to 12" off the wall this time.

Thanks for the detailed reply.. I think I understand what you mean, but it sounds like you are saying the proper fix involves ripping up the concrete and doing more specialty plumbing or that I would need another set of hands for. I can handle lots of diy around the house handy[wo]man tasks, but this might be too much. I got an internal pipe cutter (wish I had know about this a month ago..) to hopefully carefully remove the 3 in. offset flange.Just in case so I wouldn't have to keep running to HD, I got:

a 3'' x 3' pipe ( in case I need a few extra inches)
a connector/female on both ends/coupler
a 3'' plastic flange
a 4'' flange (didn't know size of waste pipe until I removed the offset)
a 4'' to 3'' offset flange - same one as the original.. just in case there was a reason they did it that way as much as it sucked.

going to work on it now.. wish luck..

one more question, my dad just got a dual flush comfort height elongated toilet from lowes. install has gone well so far, but when I placed the gasket on the bottom of the tank before I put onto the bowl, it felt like there was a large sponge that wasn't compressing. I'm pretty sure the gasket is right side up..

 

[Hklein]

Here are a few more photos. I hope it helps explain what I can't describe in proper terms. Also, the concrete floor keeps... almost disintegrating, or breaking off pebbles and stones with little to no impact. I have the concrete stuff for setting mailboxes/posts, I'm sure thats a whole different project though

 

[pstnbly]

Now that you have it chewed down that far, take a heat gun and heat the flange and the part that goes down the pipe. It's sort of a variation on a technique I saw on This Old House, they had a dedicated tool but I found a heat gun will work. Heat just the fitting and you can get it good and hot, then use a screwdriver to pry the fitting away from the pipe. The heat will de-couple the glue and make the fitting pliable enough to fold up and remove. This works better than a hubsaver but takes a little longer. I've save many a problem job this way.

 

[Hklein]

Now that you have it chewed down that far, take a heat gun and heat the flange and the part that goes down the pipe. It's sort of a variation on a technique I saw on This Old House, they had a dedicated tool but I found a heat gun will work. Heat just the fitting and you can get it good and hot, then use a screwdriver to pry the fitting away from the pipe. The heat will de-couple the glue and make the fitting pliable enough to fold up and remove. This works better than a hubsaver but takes a little longer. I've save many a problem job this way.

Thank you it's nice to hear that I haven't destroyed the floor and the pipe and blah blah.. gonna try that for sure. Will a hair dryer get hot enough? I'm not trying to melt it, right?

 

[Hklein]

I would have just drilled deeper holes and set them with expansion sleeves. I think you created a lot of extra work. You had the dish for the wax ring to set in. Your issue was a cracked flange where the bolts go.

Now that it's somewhat flush with the floor I would smooth the wax ring dish out with some epoxy and fill around what's left with drylok. Once everything is set drill some new holes. Trying to mate a new flange or top flange will be a pain.

What state are you in?

The flange wasn't even secured to the floor, and when I tried to place a machine screw/bolt and nut w/washer (on both top of the broken flange/bottom of repair ring) - it still wasn't even close to having the structural integrity of a toilet I hope will NOT cause any future problems.. would be a shame to go thru all this, put the stick-on floor laminate tiles on, and then have leaking or sewage problems & subfloor water damage, IMHO. I don't know all the lingo or what expansion sleeves are. because of the original leak, is that why the concrete was so crumbly, btw?

 

[pstnbly]

You can try the hair dryer, it might work. If not heat guns can be had cheaply $15.00 or so.

 

[gregtwojeeps]

A sleeve anchor for concrete use. They also make them with flat head bolts.

 

[Hklein]

A sleeve anchor for concrete use. They also make them with flat head bolts.

What is that used for I don't understand? Sorry thank you

 

[12ozd]

What is that used for I don't understand? Sorry thank you

Bolt the toilet to the floor, instead of the (plastic) flange.

 

[Hklein]

No need for a flange? How do I seal it to the pipe? Fml why didn't I know this a month ago


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[Hklein]

See where the chisel is? I just need to separate that **** so I can use my internal pipe cutter to cut the top of it off then it won't be offset anymore and take the heat gun straight down at it to try and separate inner flange from outer pipe, right? Or aim gun from inside at a 45 degree angle so I don't melt outer pipe?


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[12ozd]

Yes, you need the flange, yes it was sealed to the pipe.
The problem was broken flange at bolts?
Leave the flange alone and bolt toilet to floor using existing flange.
Too late for that now.
All you had to do was install bolt anchors, replace toilet.

(unless I read the original post wrong)

 

[TheEquineFencer]

Your pooper is on the ceiling?

Beat me too it...

 

[Hklein]

I GOT THE OFFSET THINGY OUT!!!!

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[zmaxmotorsports]

Use a dremel tool to cut the pipe flush then install this maybe... if your local big box store does not have them... Amazon does. JMO

 

[pstnbly]

See where the chisel is? I just need to separate that **** so I can use my internal pipe cutter to cut the top of it off then it won't be offset anymore and take the heat gun straight down at it to try and separate inner flange from outer pipe, right? Or aim gun from inside at a 45 degree angle so I don't melt outer pipe?


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You can put the heat right to it sa you say at a 45. Don't be timid, that flange and pipe will take a ton of heat. If it were me I might even carefully use a propane torch. The plastic will let you know, when it starts to toast back off a little.