Flare nut Line wrenches

[zippster]

I am working on restoring a salt belt car for my son and need to change all the brake lines. I am in need of some good flare nut wrenches. I have a set of gear wrench flare nut wrenches but they do not fit the fasteners well, expand and slip.

I see that Mac, SK, Snap on and Wright all have sets that would work.
Any suggestions? I'm not so much worried about the cost as I'm willing to pay the price for a tool that will hold up.

 

[richfinn]

SK are good

If I'm replacing lines though I just cut them and use a 6 point socket to get the old union out, make the new line and use new hardware

 

[rijndael]

Be sure to check out the *LW vise grips. They're handy with brake lines.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SBBD/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[demarpaint]

I have Stahlwille, this set. https://www.amazon.de/-/en/gp/product/B000I1SQZC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They're a top quality tool.

 

[toolaholic]

I actually have Sk 6 points and proto 12 points. Both great sets.

 

[jayoldschool]

Speaking from lots of salt experience, don't bother. Save the line wrenches for the nice stuff. When you're replacing lines on salty cars, simply cut the line at the fitting and use a good 6pt socket. Fitting will come right out, no rounding.

 

[Chevy-SS]

I actually have Sk 6 points and proto 12 points. Both great sets.

12 point line wrenches? I would never use one of those for old brake fittings. I do love S-K tools though. I have a lot of them.

 

[Honest Bob]

Be sure to check out the *LW vise grips. They're handy with brake lines.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SBBD/?tag=atomicindus08-20

If I am trying to salvage a crusty old brake line I usually go straight for regular vice grips to crack things loose but these look even better.

 

[zippster]

I'm trying to salvage the hard line and replace the rubber part at the calipers if I can get away with it. Not enough room to cut it.

 

[Nineeightyone]

I really like my Blackhawk ones, USA made and the set isn't awfully expensive. Snap-On are supposed to be the best but the pricetag is about what you'd expect.

 

[lilredex]

Even if you could turn that flare nut, it will take the steel line with it, twisting it off. Cut the line and get a six point on that nut. And, start fresh with new stuff.

 

[ransil]

My snap on are better than the craftsman I have, but 80 % of the time the vice grips come out, get nicop as replacements.

Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

 

[larry4406]

I bought the "Craftsman" (cough) ones from Lowes. They worked.

They feel bad in your hands, shape is very odd, matches nothing in my tool box.

Only redeeming factor was Lowes was closer than Harbor Freight.

 

[Shadowdog500]

I have craftsman, SK, and snap on line wrenches. Snap on are hands down the best. I never rounded a line nut with the snap on set.

If you are not in a hurry just Soak the connection in Kroil and put a wrench on the nut and give it a good wiggle. Repeat every day for a few days and it will come out. I used to own a few old salt water boats and this trick always seemed to work eventually. All you need is time and patience.

If everything is that rusty do you really want to keep the original lines? Replace them now and get it over with. I know from first hand experience that old rusty brake lines Always seem to fail when you least expect it!

 

[eschoendorff]

I have Snap On and the old school Craftsman Professional (SK). Both work well. Be careful of those vice grips though. I’ve used those on fittings before and - with enough pressure - they can cave the fitting in. Just be careful.

 

[Tonyuk]

How rusty? You might be better cutting them off and just using a new fitting, if you have the kit needed to flare the line. Usualy saves messing about.

I have and use the below (best liked first)

Gedore
Stahlwille
Snap-ons (set with the combo ends)
Toptuls
SK's

They all work, the gedore's fit best imo. I don't think they make an SAE set if that's what you need.

The toptuls are only about £35 here, and are excellent for the money.

 

[Shelbylex]

If you have time, buy a single SO wrench off eBay, finish a job and either gift it to your son or keep it.
Also take a look on CL - I see them there periodically but either as sets for higher price or in relatively poor condition.
I think I will be on lookout for SO flare but wrenches this summer when yard sales start (hopefully by the end of July)

 

[Bacon!]

I have a Wright 31614 non-chromed (black oxide) and it does great, but last time I dealt with rusty lines, it still twisted the line in two but I pretty much expected that. It's crazy expensive on Amazon ($46!) but about $19 delivered here:
https://aboloxtools.com/Wright-Tool-31614

I figure if the line twists, it was shot and needed replaced, but if you really want to go cheap and wait on doing lines, then instead of twisting the nut off, hold the nut stationary and twist the caliper off of it instead (if/when possible).

Once you get to working on it, you might find that the steel lines are rustier than you realized and need replaced anyway. If it's a close call I wouldn't risk putting a younger driver in a vehicle that could lose the brakes. Well, really anyone, but some younger guys tend to drive like the speed limit is a lower limit.

 

[sberry]

If I am trying to salvage a crusty old brake line I usually go straight for regular vice grips to crack things loose but these look even better.

Yes, 7R and 10R are the brake line tools and can occasionally work stuck lines loose, squeeze one way then the other.

 

[16again]

If you’re not in a hurry, look for Snap-On on eBay. As someone said above since you want to save that line, spray some Kroil on it and let it sit.
I purchased all my Snap On line wrenches on eBay and had them in a few days. Much less expensive than new and they just plain work.

 

[lbpd716]

The Snap On open end flares. There is no comparison. The flare on the one end is more stout than any of the others I've seen. The open end side is super thick and a pleasure to use. The balance on them is 2nd to none.

 

[lardy1]

I've never rounded a fitting with my SK's. But that doesn't mean they won't. I believe those that say the Snap-On's are better.

 

[greg13]

It's like others have said, if the line nut is seized the line is junk. Save the money for the wrenches and spend it on new brake lines and a GOOD flaring tool.

 

[spyerx]

i have SK and Proto, both are excellent, an have yet to bust, split, crack, strip a brake or clutch line on the 911s I work on... some lines never removed in 30+ years... very happy with them. I use SK the most. The Proto 7mmx8mm (clutch bleeder on late 80s 911) I have the finish around the hole is very tight, not as clean as the SK set I have. I do hit the fasteners with Kroil first.. Always found a quick "snap" movement on these to be best when breaking them open.

 

[Schurkey]

The FIRST tool you need when dealing with crusty brake tubing and flare nuts is a real, oxy-acetylene Blue-Wrench. Oxy-propane may be hot enough--I've heard of it but never used it. Regular propane or "Map-Pro" is a waste of time, money, effort, and enthusiasm.

If using a torch on the fitting connecting to a brake hose, expect the brake hose to be ruined. In fact, it'll probably pop at the crimped-on end. You'll want hearing protection in addition to eye protection; and it may spray brake fluid.

I have miscellaneous Mac, OLD SK, and NAPA automotive-style "6-point" flare nut wrenches. They're jokes compared to Snap-On. I never use them any more They're short, and they're flexy. Mind you, I'm not saying that the currently-sold Mac, SK, or "ordinary" NAPA/Carlyle are inferior to Snappy. (I have a suspicion that they are inferior, but zero evidence, and zero inclination to collect evidence.)

That said, I'm intrigued by the Carlyle "ratcheting" flare-nut wrenches. Never held them in my hand, though. They're short 'n' bulky, so they'd be of limited use.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CHQLWFL4?ref=MA==

I bought a different-style 12-point ratcheting flare-nut wrench from www.HarryEpstein.com . This is an 18mm Bonney "closeout". I'm disappointed in it now that I've seen that design in person. Obviously a low-torque, low-leverage deal that might be useful in Aviation, but has no place in an automotive tool box unless you never work on anything with rust.

I have a variety of non-ratcheting 12-point, thin-wall flare nut wrenches and crowfeet; Bonney and Snap-On and others, and they're all worthless. Same deal as the 12-point Bonney above--they must be intended for aviation use, extreme low-torque and zero rust.


I just realized how many flare-nut wrenches and crowfeet I have, and it never really dawned on me until now. All but the 6-point Snappys are a waste of steel for my use; and they never come out of the tool box.

 

[cherrybomb]

I would buy a Snap -on in the size you need.Sure it will cost more.You shouldn't have any trouble.I would then use it as a learning experience for your son.A hands on where you could talk safety,quality in tools to do a better job.And safety in a brake system,doesn't cost,it pays.Your peace of mind is worth it imo.A chance to instill,thats what Dads do.

 

[ChevyEFI]

If I am trying to salvage a crusty old brake line I usually go straight for regular vice grips to crack things loose but these look even better.

I'm trying to salvage the hard line and replace the rubber part at the calipers if I can get away with it. Not enough room to cut it.

What Bob said. You tighten them onto the nut, and tighten the nut to break it free (easier to control than loosening,) then loosen it. Back and forth. I used to use vice grips on lines when I lived in the Midwest.

And if you really have an access problem for a line nut, a crowfoot from SO might be your best bet.

 

[Semi-hole mechanic]

I just replaced the rear brake lines on my 93 f150 that spent the last 5 years in the U.P. I cut the old lines off at the fitting and used a 6pt socket. Then used my line wrenches to put the new ones on. I have GW and Sata (both Apex) because I cant really afford Snap Ons, or justify the cost for no more than I'd use them, and haven't had much of an issue on non rusted stuff. I will use a set of small Vise Grips on the outside of my line wrenches on really tight fittings to keep the wrench from spreading.

 

[zippster]

I soaked the fitting in repeated sessions of applying kroil. Using a snap on crows foot, the connection easily broke free. Excited, I went to put on the new hose on and to my dismay it would not fit.

The hose has a bracket that connects to the strut. When I connect it, I would have to twist the hose about 1/2 turn in order to attach up to the caliper. Is this common?

Also
I ordered a set of SK flare wrenches. I don't even have them yet, but am having buyers remorse because of everyone talking up the Snap on's.

 

[EzGoingKev]

I just replaced the rear brake lines on my 93 f150 that spent the last 5 years in the U.P. I cut the old lines off at the fitting and used a 6pt socket. Then used my line wrenches to put the new ones on. I have GW and Sata (both Apex) because I cant really afford Snap Ons, or justify the cost for no more than I'd use them, and haven't had much of an issue on non rusted stuff. I will use a set of small Vise Grips on the outside of my line wrenches on really tight fittings to keep the wrench from spreading.

I bought a set of SATA line wrenches off Amazon back in 2021. When I saw the name SATA I thought it was the same company that makes the spray guns. I was wrong. My line wrenches fit WAY too loose to use.

I bought a set of Craftsman line wrenches at Lowes for $20. Much better quality/fit.

 

[BlakeTheCarGuy]

I’ve used many. Nobody beats Snap-on. This is one tool that you should spend the money to get the Snap-on ones. No play, no flex or anything. Best out there hands down. SK is ok but the Snap-on feel better and don’t spread.

 

[threewood]

I work on old cars and had been using older Craftsman. They were ok. I then bought a used set of Snap On flare end wrenches from the Flea Bay. I don't know where those Craftsman wrenches are anymore. The Snap Ons are well worth the money.