Flare Nut wrenches 6 or 12 point?

[Conductor562]

I've always put off buying Flare nut wrenches. I never really needed them enough to justify buying a set, but I've decided to order a set because why the hell not.

I can get a new set of SAE and metric Blackhawk FNW's (USA made) for about 60% of retail, but they are 6 point.

I am 500% aware of the differences between 6 and 12 points and do not need an explanation. I would prefer 12 point for potential reduction of swing required to use them, but for the money, I find it hard to pass up on a 4 piece SAE and 4 piece metric set (covers 8 sizes in each), just because I would prefer 12 point.The question at hand is essentially this: Is there anything I'm missing that would justify passing this deal up and paying more for the 12 pt. set?
Money isn't an issue. I am willing to pay more to get 12 points, but hey, that's $50 I could spend on something else. In other words, have you guys encountered any scenarios specifically associated with FNW's where a 12 pt. did the trick when a 6 pt. would not have? The bulk of my use will be hydraulic lines on tractors and such.

For whatever reason, I've convinced myself I'd be happier with the 12's, but I'll take the advice of the GJ fellas whether its contrary to my feeling or not.

Again, I am very aware of the differences, just looking for FNW specific recommendations.

 

[kunkernator]

I'm not going to go in depth, because it is apparent you understand;

What is the point of a flare nut wrench? To grip more sides to prevent rounding of flare nuts and fasteners.

What is known about 12 point sockets/wrenches? They round stuff out very much easier than 6 point.

Honestly, if I had the choice between a 12 point flare nut wrench and a normal open end..... I would use the open end. The 12 point design is contradicting what the wrench is designed for. That is my thinking and opinion. If you do end up finding/buying a set of 12 point flare nut wrenches, post up a review, because I would be interested.

Either way, like I tell everyone; do your research and buy the right tool so that you don't regret it later. Good luck!

 

[Conductor562]

Thanks.

Personally, I have never had a situation where a 6 pt. wouldn't do, but I ask because an overwhelming majority of FNW's seem to be 12's and I have to assume there's a reason for that. Other than the aforementioned swing arc in very tight places, I really can't understand the apparent dominance of 12's, but that is why I'm asking.

 

[CWP1616L]

I'd trust a Proto 12 point flare nut wrench, but that's pretty much the only brand I'd trust in 12 point.

 

[ChevyEFI]

What kunkernator said.

However, if you have a brand you've found fits perfectly and you seldom deal with partially rounded fittings, go for the 12s if they make you happy.

I'll keep buying 6s as I need them and if I end up doing a great amount of work with them and feel the need, I'll add 12s secondarily.

It's up to you.

 

[ihateminimumwage]

Go with the 6 points. If you're in a situation where you NEED a flare nut wrench, you'll be putting enough force into it that a 6pt will be safer on the fitting. For 12pt flares, I have flare crowsfoot sockets.

 

[zkling]

What is known about 12 point sockets/wrenches? They round stuff out very much easier than 6 point.

Ironically most folks will say only a 6pt socket, but will not think twice about reaching for that 12pt combo wrench.

I think the benefit to 12pt flare is the same benefit to 12pt combos, that is handle position options. I could see in tight spots where a 12pt flare would be more useful than a 6pt flare. Usually the issue with flare nut wrenches is the concern of them spreading, necessitating the 12pts to be made out of good steel as they usually have a thinner crossection than their 6pt counterparts. I personally wouldn't have a problem using a high quality (like proto) 12pt flare nut wrench.

To me it seems that 12pt flare nut wrenches are about as common as 6pt combo wrenches. Another thing I have noticed is that you see alot of older flare nut wrenches to be 12pt. Where most current production is 6pt? Has the addition of the crows foot caused a decline in popularity in 12pt flare nut wrenches? Going along with what minimumwage said above.

 

[skorpio]

If the reason you are buying flare nut wrenches is because you have a lot of anodized AN fittings for your braided lines, than I would never even consider 12pt, because the reason you are buying them is to not nick up the coating on the fittings.

 

[nissan_crawler]

Tractors don't have an fittings (not factory anyway, before somebody shows a custom puller or something).

I would get 6 point, much mess likely to round them off. The only 12 point I like are old proto pebble style, and they're hard to find. I've been trying to finish my set of them for 8 years.

 

[atwageman]

I use Wright and Snap On 6pt flare wrenches. So far I haven't ran into a arc/swing issues. My combos however are 12pt. I have socket sets in both 6pt and 12pt. I prefer 6pt. It's been my personal experience of less chances for rounding when using 6pt. Everyone's opinion is different, just passing along what works best for me.

 

[Delray]

Where I live brake and gas lines can rust to the point of leaking in 8 to 10 years. I need the best 6 point I can get to have half a chance to remove fittings.

Sometimes for hard to reach diesel and hydraulic lines and I have had to use 12 point crowfoot flares. Rust is usually not a problem with them.

 

[signcrafter]

Another vote for 6 point. When I grab a flare wrench it's usually because I need to take off a rusted or really tight nut/bolt. I need the most contact and force possible without damaging the fastener.

 

[AmericanPreferred]

One more option is 6pt crows foot flare nut with a slight offset built in, you can always flip it for handle position options, and on a breaker bar you also have a flex head for further fitment options, add an extension you can get at some no regular wrench can reach. One other thing to watch for is opening size, a lot of flare wrenches are totally useless on hydraulic hoses, cause they wont fit over them.

 

[candikid]

I would most definitely buy a 12 point set.. Open ends does not yield the same space around them, so in some cases you would miss a lot of twisting angle and even sometimes not get the wrench over the nut/fitting at all. I mostly use flare nut wrenches when fastening hydraulic lines anyways, because when changing tubes I can always find a way to cut/snip the old tube and use almost whatever tool I prefer on the fitting. Of course the space thing doesn't count for a 6 point flare nut wrench, but the twisting angle will.

I have to add that I have a rusted O2 sensor on my exhaust right now though, that I probably can't get off with using a 6 point, and I can't cut the wires either (nor can I unplug it in the opposite end and route my way down to the sensor, due to fat connector)

 

[Steevo]

The primary purpose of a flare nut wrench is for . . . . . turning flare nuts!
Since flare nut have tubing running through the middle of them, whatever you turn them with must have an opening so that the wrench can get around the tubing.
When one attempts to use a straight open end wrench to do this, they are grabbing only two of the six points on the nut when turning it.
This is how most flare nuts get rounded off.
A decent six point flare nut wrench (even the HF ones) will use at least four of the points on the nut when turning, missing two in the "gap". I have seen a couple that were well designed, so that all six points were used, by having a narrower gap and orienting the "box" just right.
The cheaper flare nut wrenches have thicker boxes, making them too fat to fit some closely spaces fittings or crowded lines.
Twelve point flare nut wrenches will also grab at least 4 and sometimes five or six points of the nut, and will have more positioning options.
I haven't seen a 12 point or a 6 point flare nut wrench round off a fitting unless the wrong size was used, or they were such poor quality that the fit was sloppy.

Of course everyone will encounter at least one fitting sometime in their life that you cannot loosen due to extreme corrosion or binding and no wrench alone will remove it.

 

[davesnothere]

I like my snappy 6 pts.

 

[SMKS]

Make sure to post pics/info when you buy the Blackhawks.

My lins wrenches are mix of brands. I have 1 Blackhawk and 1 Stanley (identical to the Blackhawk) and they've worked well for me.

 

[Delray]

I like my snappy 6 pts.

Me too. The ones with one open end give you a single wrench of each size and they fit tight.

 

[SteveCh]

I bought a set of flare wrenches a few months ago, never used them before yesterday. They came in a set of specialty wrenches I found out about here on the forum. Otherwise, I would not have bought them.

Then, yesterday, I needed to replace a valve on my many-decades-old propane tank that was probably installed [the valve] fifty years ago. 7/8" brass fitting. I tried all my regular open-end wrenches and gave up when the last choice [crescent wrench which is the longest and my "last resort"] was threatening to round over the nut. Then I remembered the flare hut wrenches, and, sure enough, there is a 6-point 7/8 in the set. I needed every bit of the contact with the brass that the 6-point provided. So, at least in this case, it saved me. I don't think a 12-point would have sufficed.

 

[Wakefield]

Is an antique Bonney the best kind of 12 point style flare nut wrench? Has smoothed corners?

 

[kamesama980]

I have only 6 pt flare nut wrenches and have never been in a spot where I couldn't turn it enough/needed 12pt working on cars at home or in the shop. I have been in many situations with brake lines where I'd rather have 6pt grip/strength dealing with the little suckers rusted in place.

You're working on tractors though...no idea. I'd probably still default to 6pts unless you find they aren't working for you.

 

[AmericanPreferred]

He said primary use tractor hydraulics, tractor hydraulics equals hoses. Most flare nut wrenches are not going over hydraulic hoses. I have never owned 12 point line wrenches, to me they are in same category as 12pt impact sockets, also never owned.

 

[Conductor562]

Thanks for the info guys. I think I'll go ahead and pick up the 6's.

 

[nissan_crawler]

I rounded five brake line fittings with a six point snap-on flare nut wrench. I tried a cheap one first, huge difference. I hate to think of how many that would strip out.

 

[ChevyEFI]

I find it interesting SO lists no 1/4" drive 6 point flare nut crows feet. Only 12.

 

[4x4gearhead]

You wont regret going with the six points. I cant say Ive ever used 12 pt ones, or known anyone that had them. Good luck to ya!

 

[TwoInch]

A decent six point flare nut wrench (even the HF ones) will use at least four of the points on the nut when turning, missing two in the "gap". I have seen a couple that were well designed, so that all six points were used, by having a narrower gap and orienting the "box" just right.
The cheaper flare nut wrenches have thicker boxes, making them too fat to fit some closely spaces fittings or crowded lines.
Twelve point flare nut wrenches will also grab at least 4 and sometimes five or six points of the nut, and will have more positioning options.

from my experience, 6pt flare nuts only miss one corner. that corner has two sides, so one is missing when tightening the nut, and one is missing when loosening. even the old proto 6pt design grabs 5 pts. it excludes one whole flat, instead of a point. in doing so, you miss the two corners on that flat, which equals one tightening, and one loosening. same scenario, different configuration.

i havent noticed a 12pt flare nut that grabbed anymore sides than a 6pt. there has to be an opening big enough.

 

[bcradio]

I bought a set of flare wrenches a few months ago, never used them before yesterday. They came in a set of specialty wrenches I found out about here on the forum. Otherwise, I would not have bought them.

Then, yesterday, I needed to replace a valve on my many-decades-old propane tank that was probably installed [the valve] fifty years ago. 7/8" brass fitting. I tried all my regular open-end wrenches and gave up when the last choice [crescent wrench which is the longest and my "last resort"] was threatening to round over the nut. Then I remembered the flare hut wrenches, and, sure enough, there is a 6-point 7/8 in the set. I needed every bit of the contact with the brass that the 6-point provided. So, at least in this case, it saved me. I don't think a 12-point would have sufficed.

but you don't KNOW...

 

[Rico.]

I would suggest that as with the endless 6 vs 12 point socket debate, the size of the
fastener would be relevent. in the usual brake line sizes and smaller fittings ie. 8, 10, 12mm
then 6 point would essential. In the larger sizes 19mm 22mm then I might even be so bold
as to recommend a 12 point wrench, purely from an access perspective as there is enough
meat on those size nuts that I don't think it would make any difference.

You might not be surprised to know my set of Facom flare nut spanners are all 6 point
in the smaller sizes and 17mm and up 12 point.... They have worked perfectly.

I chose the same type of thing with my crowsfeet flare nut wrenches...
8mm to 19mm - 6 point
20mm to 32mm - 12 point

 

[CWP1616L]

Thanks for the info guys. I think I'll go ahead and pick up the 6's.

Which brand of 12 points were you considering? I missed that somewhere.

 

[bob15]

Which brand of 12 points were you considering? I missed that somewhere.

My 6 points are Proto

My 12 points are Bonney Loc-Rite

Get both, use the 6 pt when ever possible and use the 12 when needed. And yes, there will be the one spot or time when the 12 points are needed.

 

[crewchief888]

He said primary use tractor hydraulics, tractor hydraulics equals hoses. Most flare nut wrenches are not going over hydraulic hoses.

^^^ this

nor will flare nut crowsfeet

 

[ex-x-fire]

When your dealing with fittings, this is a case where you'd want to match the wrench to the fastener (as in number of points).

 

[Conductor562]

Which brand of 12 points were you considering? I missed that somewhere.

The 6 point set in consideration are Blackhawks. Haven't seen them, but he says he's never used them the first time. I'm going to stop by tomorrow or Friday and have a look.

If I do pass on them (don't think I will) and decided to go 12 pt., I would certainly buy Proto because.....well, because I seldom buy anything but Proto.

 

[Conductor562]

So I went today a checked out the 6 pt. Blackhawk set. He wasn't kidding about being like new. The 9/16 looks like it may have been used a time or 2, but the rest don't look like they've ever been out of the roll. I feel like I stole them at $50. I've gotten Blackhawk stuff off this guy before, he's even gave me some ratcheting combos, I kinda suspicion they were courtesy of his company tool allowance.

 

[TwoInch]

nice!

 

[SMKS]

Nice. I don't think they have those nice flat beam style anymore, at least not in metrics. I have one of that style.

 

[Conductor562]

He said he'd had them "a couple years". I didn't prod for any additional info. I found new sets in the $100 range. I'll buy pre-owned stuff for 1/2 of retail in this condition any day.

 

[Farmall450]

Tractors don't have an fittings (not factory anyway, before somebody shows a custom puller or something).

I would get 6 point, much mess likely to round them off. The only 12 point I like are old proto pebble style, and they're hard to find. I've been trying to finish my set of them for 8 years.

Advertise on here!

 

[Conductor562]

Seem to work fine on my Kubota