After researching the differance between 6 and 12pt threads I toke your advice and ordered proto j3700mt metric 5 PC 12pt flare nuts for $82.95 from amazon. Could have gotten 6pt protos 5 PC 6 pt set for $59.99 + 9.50 shipping from eBay. Maybe these will spare me removing something to access something. Will let you guys know how I like em if and when I use them. Metric flare nut wrenches were about only thing I'm missing.I would most definitely buy a 12 point set.. Open ends does not yield the same space around them, so in some cases you would miss a lot of twisting angle and even sometimes not get the wrench over the nut/fitting at all. I mostly use flare nut wrenches when fastening hydraulic lines anyways, because when changing tubes I can always find a way to cut/snip the old tube and use almost whatever tool I prefer on the fitting. Of course the space thing doesn't count for a 6 point flare nut wrench, but the twisting angle will.
I have to add that I have a rusted O2 sensor on my exhaust right now though, that I probably can't get off with using a 6 point, and I can't cut the wires either (nor can I unplug it in the opposite end and route my way down to the sensor, due to fat connector)
Kool link! Thanks! Thanks for making me feel better about my purchase. As a relative newbie to car repair the less I have to remove to fix something the better. I thought the 12pt protos provided better access.http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73245
contact patterns between 6pt and 12pt sockets is negligible, I would think flare nut wrenches are the same way. Use whatever you are most comfortable with.
that's on my list flare nut crowfeet. Most of mine are regular open end. I should upgrade my sae flare nut wrenches too. Mine are a ace set. Six point. Splurged on the metric proto flare nut wrenches since they will see more use.I have both. I usually use the 6 pt flare nut wrenches but occasionally I use the 12 point. I find that I use the 12 pts mostly on power steering rack and pinion gears to loosen the pressure and return fittings which are often difficult to reach and have limited swing room. Yes, sometimes you can lower the subframe to gain better access to remove the rack but not all cars are designed that way. That said, I also use crowfoot flare nut wrenches and flare nut sockets in those situations which are often a better choice to use.
The reason I have so many different types is I like options. The job is so much easier when you have the right tool. BTW, I'm a non-professional shadetree mechanic.
