Flashing between siding?

[mpire]

So I got a buddy of mine who is building a giant garage, but its going slowly because he has a job and no helpers. So I'm trying to install mini-splits but I can't put the hangers on the outside wall because the siding isn't up yet.

So I'm trying to hang siding now. I know they need something underneath when you have to pieces butted up together.

You can do metal, roofing felt, or plastic, I think. He just wants to cut a piece of ty-vek and stick it under the joint.

The siding is hardyboard siding or whatever that concrete board is.

I just need to get enough done to get up to about 10 feet so I can put the AC hangers on and do the rest of my AC install.

What do you guys use?

 

[Toomanytools?]

Aluminum flashing or roofing felt easy to work with, aluminum will lay flat the best.

 

[purplezr2]

Flashing is recommended, some vendors sell precut pieces.

 

[yeldogt]

I have used both metal and the old 30lb felt -- if you use the felt don't go with what they call 30 from the big box stores. They also sell packs of flashing .

Don't caulk the joints -- I like to keep the factory joints for ****'s. I have only used pre-painted. Any cut or damaged end must be painted

 

[jhrodd]

We use "Bear Skins" they come in pads you can hang on your belt and have adhesive on the back to hold them in place.

 

[jhrodd]

Here's a link, now that I have 5 posts. http://www.holdenhumphrey.com/products/siding/hardieplank/bear-skin-joint-flashing-sheets/

 

[77Birdman]

In the old days plain ole 30lb felt strips worked fine. I like the bear skins.

 

[kelpaso1]

I wouldn't use the wall brackets. The compressor will likely vibrate the wall it's mounted to. Mine did and the second year I made a stand and set it on a concrete patio block. Can't even tell it's running now.

 

[Trey T]

Hardie recommends metal flashing as one of the best practice. If you don't have flashing, then you need to caulk it and maintain it perpetually.

Going outside of the recommendation from Hardie, you want to use the next best material that would not allow water to permeate thru. Between Tyvek and felt paper, the Tyvek is a lot more superior in short and long-term.

Keep in mind, Tyvek is not a direct replacement of metal flashing because it allows water vapor to pass thru, while the sheet metal is a complete barrier against liquid and vapor. In a practical application, I believe Tyvek, in place of metal flashing, is appropriate to protect the home-wrap(e.g. Tyvek).

 

[theoldwizard1]

If yiou are putting up more than just a small section of Hardie board do NOT use a power saw ! They create huge amounts of dust which you don't want to breathe. Buy a hand held power shear or rent a guillotine.

 

[larry4406]

Our new construction homes have Hardee plank and they use metal flashing at the **** joints. I assume it is a stocked Hardee accessory as they come out in a box when the siding is delivered.

 

[yeldogt]

You don't caulk the joints .. actually -- the joints should never be caulked -- even with wood siding. The old school way with redwood siding (that was the preferred material) was to use copper or lead strips at the joints. In areas where it was available -- old growth hemlock was used and then cedar took over when the other woods were gone. Cedar was used in new england -- but caulk was never used. Caulk in a tube is a relatively new product -- and is really not needed if you build things correctly.

Even at windows sides -- it was a layers of tar paper -- better projects got a strip of flashing.

The flashing is to direct the water onto the lower clapboard -- you overlap the lower siding course. since the joint moves -- caulk will fail and it also holds moisture at the ends of the boards .. that's why they rot.

I recently pulled off siding from my current project -- 1873 with the original wood siding. The tined lead flashing was still in place -- installed with cut nails and wood pegs.

 

[Firebrick43]

You don't caulk the joints .. actually -- the joints should never be caulked -- even with wood siding. The old school way with redwood siding (that was the preferred material) was to use copper or lead strips at the joints. In areas where it was available -- old growth hemlock was used and then cedar took over when the other woods were gone. Cedar was used in new england -- but caulk was never used. Caulk in a tube is a relatively new product -- and is really not needed if you build things correctly.

Even at windows sides -- it was a layers of tar paper -- better projects got a strip of flashing.

The flashing is to direct the water onto the lower clapboard -- you overlap the lower siding course. since the joint moves -- caulk will fail and it also holds moisture at the ends of the boards .. that's why they rot.

I recently pulled off siding from my current project -- 1873 with the original wood siding. The tined lead flashing was still in place -- installed with cut nails and wood pegs.

tin coated lead? Or do you mean terne metal, which is a lead and tin coated steel used for a century or more until the factory in WV was shut down 10 years ago or so?

 

[yeldogt]

tin coated lead? Or do you mean terne metal, which is a lead and tin coated steel used for a century or more until the factory in WV was shut down 10 years ago or so?

Sorry -- was not thinking. .......... lead coated copper. You can still get it .. although it's not exactly the same as years ago. It was very long-lived and was used when a dull finish was needed.

I did not know that terne was no more. My first project in the city had what I thought was a "tin" roof .. not knowing that it was actually tin coated (something) ... think steel. I replaced it with copper ..because most of the cost was labor (this was pre copper cost madness).

My current project I went with a zinc -- it has that dull finish of the old lead roofs. The process today makes them too shinny.

 

[readhead]

This isn't adding up for me. All you need is a hole for the line set through the wall. The siding can easily be cut around the hole later.