Flashing Overhangs to existing Pole barn

[tricountytrail]

Trying to figure out best way to flash Overhangs to existing Pole barn?
One side will be on the existing Header and the other will up under the over hang. see pics
The building is spray foamed and I wont be removing any metal siding.


https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1024241&stc=1&d=1592535763
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1024243&stc=1&d=1592535763
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1024244&stc=1&d=1592535763
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1024245&stc=1&d=1592535763

 

[Marctrees]

If you are wanting to flash off the outside of the steel rather than from the backside, look into "Die formed flashing"

The top half is formed to seat tightly against the face of the existing vertical wall panel, then at the break line it turns to regular flat flashing to sit on top of shed roof steel.... available for any pitch shed roof.

Silicone or an ESPECIALLY THIN butyl panel seal tape, etc to seal between top of flashing and existing wall.

Kinda tough to find.

Marc

Looks kinda like this - Look at page #8 - https://www.sawyermetal.com/pdf/products.pdf


Page #13 - https://www.muellerinc.com/document...0818.pdf/86a3a4ef-4030-7e07-4de8-3fec71f868ea

 

[matt_i]

Will be a pain but sawing a kerf thru the skin, wide enough to install an L-shaped piece would be the way I would try to approach it. Circular saw with the right blade would be fast but need a guide and a protector for the shoe plate so it doesn't scratch the high rib all the way across.

 

[Joemctag]

Looks like the lean-to/she’d roof on the right won’t need flashing to keep rain out. For the left one, what Matt said is the correct way to do it. Slot cut in siding maybe at least an inch wide so your upper wall panels aren’t right down touching your flashing. Also, the upper and lower panels should really be fastened to something, say, within 8-12” of the cut to existing or added gifts to support them. This is how a building company would design and build it. There’s a GJ member named readhead who is a metal-bldg. contractor. He could tell you how long the legs of your flashing should be to keep rain out and anything else you’d want to know.

 

[Marctrees]

Easy way is to totally forget about flashing... you do have some eave protection, and the few drops of rain running down are outside so no big deal anyway.

Looks like a 1' eave ? Unless you are going to be doing something fancy under those sheds, forget the flashing.

Marc

 

[tricountytrail]

Easy way is to totally forget about flashing... you do have some eave protection, and the few drops of rain running down are outside so no big deal anyway.

Looks like a 1' eave ? Unless you are going to be doing something fancy under those sheds, forget the flashing.

Marc

Might be leaning this way. Still looking for options. Definitely not removing what is there with the spray foam.

 

[Marctrees]

Sure makes the job wayyyy quicker, and I'll bet what with the eaves you have you will have like NO water going down the wall unless a super windy storm... and IF you do... so what?

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

Obviously there will be large gap due to wall ribs where shed steel butts to wall steel... again, who cares... is that "Ag Panel" ? so like a bit over 3/4"

I would have like 1/4" + spacing between the shed roof steel end and wall steel at closest gap just to prevent expansion/ contraction rubbing.

NO advantage to having them touch and grind grate against each other.

Excited for your project... having attached open sheds opens a whole new world.

I love mine.

Marc

 

[tricountytrail]

thanks

 

[readhead]

The flashing that Marctrees mentioned works OK if the sheets have not been shrunk or stretched at which point they are useless. For the situation you have I am not sure I would bother with flashing. The joint is protected by the eave above. If you feel like you want something then a simple roof to wall flashing with outside closure on the vertical wall would keep most of the rain out.

 

[matt_i]

I'm against the no-flash gap, it might be OK against rain but any number of critters from insects to birds to rodents could find a new home with a gap between the wall and the new roof. If its caulked metal joints, so be it but I wouldn't leave it open unless you like new friends........

 

[readhead]

They are open lean-to's so there isn't much difference. But that is why I suggested flashing with closure.