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Flashing Second Floor Balcony

KPSquared

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So, I have my ceiling up and insulation in but I realized that I need to get my balcony flashed and watertight before the spring rains start.

What's the best method of keeping this water tight?

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I just figured I'd do a 6" flashing around the three sides and a drip cap over the front but its where those two meet that I'm not sure what to do.

I plan to have the deck coated in bed liner.

Any help is appreciated!
 
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KPSquared

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It will have vinyl siding on the sides and a vented soffit ceiling. I just to want to keep the water that ends up on the deck surface from getting into the garage below.

Just looking for proper flashing techniques from the pros.

Sorry to disappoint all the dirty old men. . .
 

Architorture

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PA
how high do you expect the snow to pile up in there during the winter? you might want to consider the possibility when establishing how how your flashing goes.

you probably could do much worse than running ice and water shield up the lower 3'.

in the mean time why don't you just close it off with the building wrap or something just to keep the rain from falling directly on it?
 

nehog

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...

Sorry to disappoint all the dirty old men. . .

Disappoint? No, piss off is more like it!!! :lol:

I'm not going to answer your question because it looks like something that is going to take a lot of onsite thought! I have to admit, I've never seen a design like this before.
 
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KPSquared

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I'm not talking about temporary solution. I'm talking about finishing it properly. Like, I want to do this this week. Snow stayed out of there this winter.

This thread seems to have been in vain. Either I need to provide more details or start asking local guys for advice. . .

Anyone provide me with some ideas at least?
 

nehog

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OK, I'll ask a question...

How is that 'deck' being built? Will it be spaced above the 'floor' which is a 'roof' really over that spot (even though it is not directly visible to the sky, there will be enough blow in that it might as well be directly visible...

That roof below the deck needs to be sloped to the outside to prevent pooling. I'd then do a membrane roofing, and build the deck over that. Siding on those interior walls, with flashing over the membrane to channel any moisture down the siding to the flashing and then to the membrane where it then will run out the front of the garage.

In your location I would think you will have a reasonable amount of snow. You'll either have to remove that snow from time to time or risk the potential that there will still be leakage.

Don't forget that all that water will come out the 'front' and unless you build a gutter (that works even when freezing temps are happening) you are going to have drippage (hey, I made up a word!) at the doors.

Now, get some really pretty girl to demonstrate flashing on that deck for us. You owe pictures--good pictures at that!
 
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CTyankee

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That roof below the deck needs to be sloped to the outside to prevent pooling. I'd then do a membrane roofing, and build the deck over that. Siding on those interior walls, with flashing over the membrane to channel any moisture down the siding to the flashing and then to the membrane where it then will run out the front of the garage.

In your location I would think you will have a reasonable amount of snow. You'll either have to remove that snow from time to time or risk the potential that there will still be leakage.

Don't forget that all that water will come out the 'front' and unless you build a gutter (that works even when freezing temps are happening) you are going to have drippage (hey, I made up a word!) at the doors.

^ This...

We do 2 layers of torch-down roof membranes in these situations. And wrap up the sides at least 6 inches. 30 lb or Ice+Water on the walls. They do make a self-stick membrane that can also be used. The pitched roof is gonna need some well flashed slots to drain and either scuppers or a gutter to direct the water away from above the door. I prefer to build removable panels with PT angled sleepers to level out the deck surface using a deck material of your choice. This allows for future service.

The way things stand now, your looking at having a bathtub up there. If you don't want to do the above, I'd just close the whole thing in..
 

ilovevocs

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I would design a 4 way slope into the deck and drain it internally, placing a roof drain in the center of the roof. Slope should be a min. Of 1/4" per foot. If you use a torch applied mod bit system over plywood you need to attach a base sheet. My preference would be a self adhering base, but you will have to primer the substrate. A cold process mod bit system may be safer in this application given the combustible nature of your structures materials. You should maintain a minimum of 8" of flashing height at the walls. I don't know what you level of comfort or knowledge is relative to low slope roofing design and installation but this is not going to be a simple installation for a DYI'er. Despite your coarse of action your going to have to make some investment in tools.

if you consider hiring a contractor find someone who installs commercial roofing systems with manufactures warranties. Verify that they are a certified installer for that product line. You likely will not be eligible for a manufactures warranty since this appears to be a residential application.

The easiest and cheapest way around this would be to enclose that area with some French doors so you can open them in fair weather and use traditional residential construction methodologies to complete the construction.

Best of luck.
 

KELLHAMMER

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south eastern pennsylvania
Use a PVC membrane sheet product that is intended to do that type of install Such as Duradeck.
Which is a walkable PVC membrane. Is the there a difference in floor heights for the attic space VS the outdoor deck? There should be. So the deck floor can be pitched towards the front. If not you can elevate the door threshold to create a elevation change.
A walkable membrane is self flashing. Meaning it will be run up the surrounding vertical surfaces. There will be seams that all ge theat welded. It is your best bet. Forget torch down ,since it will need some type of finish added on top. And you might be limited on space for such a buildup.
I done lots types of decks and they all have potential to leak. The membrane is the most reliable
 

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CNGsaves

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Tarps are cheap. I was always taught to put up temporary rain protection if building couldn't be finished BEFORE bad weather occurred.

Grab 2x4 and put tarp underneath it, then screw 2x4 up to soffit . . . same on both sides of peak. Then duct tape tarp to the building. Stretch the tarp tight and install another 2x4 at bottom screwed to building. Continue the temporary duct tape method. $20 bucks and balcony problem solved.

Throw up tarps over open garage door openings as well, if you want.

So what's the story on that "balcony" long-term?? What purpose it serve?
 

ilovevocs

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Use a PVC membrane sheet product that is intended to do that type of install Such as Duradeck.
Which is a walkable PVC membrane. Is the there a difference in floor heights for the attic space VS the outdoor deck? There should be. So the deck floor can be pitched towards the front. If not you can elevate the door threshold to create a elevation change.
A walkable membrane is self flashing. Meaning it will be run up the surrounding vertical surfaces. There will be seams that all ge theat welded. It is your best bet. Forget torch down ,since it will need some type of finish added on top. And you might be limited on space for such a buildup.
I done lots types of decks and they all have potential to leak. The membrane is the most reliable

Hot air heat welding equipment is expensive though unless you are chemically seaming which is really an antiquated process. I have roofed thousands of sq.ft. of plaza decks with everything from EPDM to modified asphalt and none of them had the potential to leak upon completion. Proper design and installation practices insure it. Roofs receiving an overburden are water tested for 24 hours and water level is monitored as well as interior conditions.

Attached are images of plaza deck I installed at local hospital. The area below this installation houses a new MRI machine and moisture infiltration due to deficiencies was a huge concern of the owner. This roof system received a 20 year no dollar limit warranty, it has been in service for over 5 years without a single instance of failure.
 

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DIC

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I guess a roll-up garage door wood look wierd up there...:lol_hitti
 
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KPSquared

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Tarps are cheap. I was always taught to put up temporary rain protection if building couldn't be finished BEFORE bad weather occurred.

Grab 2x4 and put tarp underneath it, then screw 2x4 up to soffit . . . same on both sides of peak. Then duct tape tarp to the building. Stretch the tarp tight and install another 2x4 at bottom screwed to building. Continue the temporary duct tape method. $20 bucks and balcony problem solved.

Throw up tarps over open garage door openings as well, if you want.

So what's the story on that "balcony" long-term?? What purpose it serve?

What purpose does any balcony serve? Sit on it, drink beer, watch people?

We just didn't want to have a big ugly face on the garage so we set the wall back and created a nice balcony. Saw it on a house in town and really liked it.

The floor is sloped towards the front. My plan is to use 6" 90* flashing all the way around. It's across the front where I'm not 100% sure. The drip edge will hand over the siding but at the two corners where the flashing and drip edge meet. That's the place I'm not 100% sure how to make sure it doesn't leak.

I'm spraying box liner as a deck surface. I'm not using duradeck. To much monies. Lots of guys up here use Rhino Liner or Linex on their decks. It's tough as hell and looks great when it's tinted to a nice deck color.

I'll post up pics of what I come up with and then you can tell me I'm stupid for doing it that way. . . :lol_hitti
 

rerod

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North English Iowa
What purpose does any balcony serve? Sit on it, drink beer, watch people?

We just didn't want to have a big ugly face on the garage so we set the wall back and created a nice balcony. Saw it on a house in town and really liked it.

The floor is sloped towards the front. My plan is to use 6" 90* flashing all the way around. It's across the front where I'm not 100% sure. The drip edge will hand over the siding but at the two corners where the flashing and drip edge meet. That's the place I'm not 100% sure how to make sure it doesn't leak.

I'm spraying box liner as a deck surface. I'm not using duradeck. To much monies. Lots of guys up here use Rhino Liner or Linex on their decks. It's tough as hell and looks great when it's tinted to a nice deck color.

I'll post up pics of what I come up with and then you can tell me I'm stupid for doing it that way. . . :lol_hitti

Yeah I know I dug this up from the archive, but how did your inset deck porch terrace or what ever you want to call it turn out KPSquared? Because I want one..
How do you like it and do you feel like the Grand Poobah when your up there with a beer and a hand in your pants?
 

yeldogt

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The proper way to do that is a waterproof liner and a proper scupper drain. You don't set them up to just drip over the siding
 

larry4406

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We have a similar installation on a covered porch on our townhouses. We used Duradeck https://duradek.com/

The Duradeck on the rear decks is an overbuild on the dropped deck which is level.

There is insulation (overbuild) applied to the deck. The insulation is tapered like a commercial roof. The net build is something like 3” on the high side then tapering to nothing on the low side.

The insulation is then covered with 3/4” plywood and screwed (counter sunk) thru the insulation to the decking below.

The plywood seams are sanded and patched. The metal flashing (drip edge) is applied to the low side (we did not use a scupper drain as Yeldogt suggests; our porches are covered like the OP's and the rain drips off the drip edge which is held out from the siding via a 3-ply trim detail). We have Hardie Plank cement siding

Special adhesive is applied to the back of the membrane and then applied to the plywood and turned up on the sides. The seams are heat welded.

Then the turned edges are overlaid with a vertical membrane piece about 9-12” tall. This is heat welded to the turned up piece.

Lastly a metal termination bar is installed to protect the bottom edge from damage such as chair feet.

Attached are some progress pics of an installation from a couple years ago.
 

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1rahamay

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I would love to know how this turned out. It looked like a horrible design idea and I envisioned terrible leaks and the ceiling below crashing down inside.
 
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